Shopsmith Forums

Personally, I'd cut the male plug off of the power pro and replace it with the 220-volt plug you already have. Then there can never be any confusion for you or anyone else about what goes where. And, there is no possibility of ruining any 110-volt appliance that might get plugged into that cord. Why? Because you never know.

How about I tie the extention cord to the PP Plug or better yet just wrap electrical tape around the connection so that it can't be used for anything else. Then in the event I need to use my SS where no 220 is available I can just cut off the security tape and I'm good to go. Yes, the guy at Lowes didn't want to direct me to the parts needed to do this and now I know why:eek: I guess the big question is has anybody here actually plugged your new PowerPro into 220:rolleyes:

dusty wrote:The PowerPro will operate safely when plugged into either 110vac or 220vac. The concern here is that with the adapter that is being proposed plugged into a 220vac outlet, there is a standard 110vac receptacle that is hot with 220vac.

If nothing other than the PowerPro ever, ever gets plugged into that receptacle there is no harm done.

But if something other than the PowerPro, something like an electric drill or soldering iron, gets plugged in there - it will be toast. Not good.

There is a reason why Shopsmith will not sell you an adapter that does what is being discussed here. It is a safety hazard and a code violation. Yes, it works great as long as no one makes a mistake or uses it wrong.

I would not think of doing this unless I was inclined to use my PowerPro today as a 220vac device and tomorrow as a 110vac device and the next day as a 220vac device, etc, etc.

If you got 220vac in the shop, put a 220vac plug on the cord and use it that way. If not, don't.

Dusty,
You are 100% correct. However I have had an adapter made and have used my PP on both 120 and (with the adapter) on 240. The adapter is always on the PP plug except when I need to plug into 120.When I have finished with 120 I again attach the adapter to the PP. The adapter is 24" long and I doubt that I, or anyone else allowed near my equipment, will mistake it for an extension cord and deliberately remove it from the PP, plug it into the 240 and then plug in a 120 appliance. Keeping both voltage options available is another advantage of the PP.
In another thread discussing the fate of the PP in 10 years I stated that I expected that PP sales would exceed the "standard". I think that may have already happened. Just my opinion, humble maybe, but I'm sticking with it.
Dick

Dusty, I totally agree with you. The 220 VAC outlet in the shop should be exactly that PER CODE! It should not look like a 120 VAC outlet and a standard 120 VAC plug should not plug into it. The type and size of the outlet should also be matched to the breaker setup back at the power distribution panel.

After doing that, I would change the plug on the end of the PowerPro line cord to a matching 220 VAC plug.

If pushed, one might make up a short adapter cord to go from a 120 VAC outlet to a (matching) 220 VAC outlet. Still a bit twitchy in that you could burn up a 220 VAC load if you ran it on 120 VAC.

On a side note, it would seem that whatever your choice for a 220 VAC outlet that you need either a 4 wire (2 hots, a neutral and a ground) or 3 wire (2 hots and a ground).

fredsheldon wrote:How about I tie the extention cord to the PP Plug or better yet just wrap electrical tape around the connection so that it can't be used for anything else. Then in the event I need to use my SS where no 220 is available I can just cut off the security tape and I'm good to go. Yes, the guy at Lowes didn't want to direct me to the parts needed to do this and now I know why:eek: I guess the big question is has anybody here actually plugged your new PowerPro into 220:rolleyes:

I run mine at 220, anyone that has ever traveled to Europe with a phone, electric razor or laptop has an adapter that does exactly what we are discussing they are even legal to sell if the male plug is not US 220 Volt. You could buy one of these adapters and plug your Shopsmith in virtually anywhere in the world that had 220 and it would work. I asked about installing a European 220 plug in my garage (since I have many adapters from my travels) and the electrician said he did not see anything wrong with doing it but he did not have one.


Google "universal travel adapter"

dickg1 wrote:
In another thread discussing the fate of the PP in 10 years I stated that I expected that PP sales would exceed the "standard". I think that may have already happened. Just my opinion, humble maybe, but I'm sticking with it.
Dick

I agree given all I have read about DVR motors and their power efficiency and the fact that the world is going global I would expect in 10 years to see many more devices using this kind of motor and being universal just like phones and laptops.

paulmcohen wrote:I run mine at 220, anyone that has ever traveled to Europe with a phone, electric razor or laptop has an adapter that does exactly what we are discussing they are even legal to sell if the male plug is not US 220 Volt. You could buy one of these adapters and plug your Shopsmith in virtually anywhere in the world that had 220 and it would work. I asked about installing a European 220 plug in my garage (since I have many adapters from my travels) and the electrician said he did not see anything wrong with doing it but he did not have one.


Google "universal travel adapter"

I did and here is an example of what I got.

This is still another.

It doesn't look to me as though any of them will work in a 220vac receptacle in the US but if you are taking your PowerPro to Europe you got it made.

Just make sure you check the maximum current ratings of the adapters. What is the maximum current draw for the PowerPro when operating on 220vac.

bobgroh wrote: . . .
On a side note, it would seem that whatever your choice for a 220 VAC outlet that you need either a 4 wire (2 hots, a neutral and a ground) or 3 wire (2 hots and a ground).

The 4 wire devices are suitable for use with an appliance that internally has both 115v and 230v loads. Those devices use the '3rd' wire as a normal current carrying conductor(neutral). That being so, a separate 4th normally non current carrying grounding conductor is prudent.

Historically the 4th wire was not considered necessary(nor was the 'ampacity' of the grounding conductor).

Times have changed and 4 wire receptacles with grounding conductors equal in size to the other conductors are being used on range and dryer circuits today. The older methods were then considered adequate, but I think experience was proven them to be inadequate in 'rainy' day scenarios. So the philosophy has changed to as absolute as possible rather than 'good enough'. Still no guarantees, as mis wiring, broken wiring etc. is still possible.

dusty wrote:I did and here is an example of what I got.

This is still another.

It doesn't look to me as though any of them will work in a 220vac receptacle in the US but if you are taking your PowerPro to Europe you got it made.

Just make sure you check the maximum current ratings of the adapters. What is the maximum current draw for the PowerPro when operating on 220vac.

You are correct you would need to have a 220 European receptacle put in your house, which appears to be legal but not someone I would do or recommend.

lightnin wrote:I have two 220 Volt 50 Amp outlets in my garage for welding. If I do get the power pro would I be better off making ... oh lets call it an adapter box
that I could plug in the outlet with a 20 Amp breaker and 20 Amp type outlet or does the power pro have internal breakers or whetever?

1) Fuses and breakers are permanently installed to protect the building from the fire hazard possible with structural electrical wiring.

2) The fuses and breakers are sized so as to provide ample current to the wiring, but will trip/blow if current exceeds a safe level for the wiring. Excessive current in the wiring can cause it to get hot depending upon other factors in the wiring.

3) Although appliances connected to that wiring are somewhat protected, they usually are damaged prior to the current reaching the trip level. See #1)

4) There is no 'code approved' way to do what you are suggesting above.

5) Yes what you are proposing is 'doable' and IIWM* . . . . Keep all wiring external. If you move, take it with you to avoid the concerns mentioned above with 'casual' occupants.

6) I am not aware of any overcurrent(line in) protective device internal to the PP(other than possible 'sacrificial lambs').

*This should not be taken as a blanket recommendation. It IS contrary to the NEC.