Shopsmith Forums

Here is the Harbor Freight set -- http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-ro ... 98361.html

I bought a set for $12.00 at the store recently with a 20 percent off coupon.

If the template guides don't fit the opening in your router base, Rockler has a base that fits a number of routers, but you'll have to drill the mounting holes. They have patterns on the web site. The newer Sears routers come with a baseplate that accepts the bushings, so it's possible this will fit the older Craftsman routers, but you'd need to verify that.

mountain4don wrote:My router is also a Craftsman. How do these bushings attach to the router plate? Or do I need a different router bottom plate that accepts these bushings? I guess I need to take a trip to the Sears store to look. I also have a Menards and a Lowes here in town to look at. The instructions also mention using bearings for this application. I am not sure how I would mount a bearing on the shaft of the dovetail router bit?

I bought a set of router sub-bases at Sears last year for an old Craftsman router. I did not know what I was doing and have not used them yet;)

If I recall correctly, they also sold 2 different styles of bushings. One had an insert that was secured to the base plate with machine screws. The other had 2 parts that screwed together from either side of a replacement base plate like one of the ones I bought. I think the second style of bushings is closer to the normal way that has evolved.

Anyway, if you are using a router that has a black base plate with 3 holes that are not in use, you may want to go with the newer style and you can get it at sears I think. Like is said, I have not used the bases I bought and I have not worked with bushings yet so this may not be the best advise:D

I found a router base plate at Sears, along with a set of bushings. After installing it I inserted the 1/2" bushing as per the Figure F chart on page 9 of the instructions, and cut a dovetail joint. It wouldn't fit together as the pins were to wide to fit in the dovetail slot. So I started adjusting the bit down in the router, and got so short it started hitting the bushing and the pin was still 1/8" wider than the slot. Rereading the instructions I see on the bottom of page 8 to use a 7/16" bushing and set the bit so it protrudes only 1/2" from the bottom of the router, giving only a 1/4" deep cut in the wood after reaching through the 1/4" deep fingers. But the bit can't be set deep enough in the bushing to get to the 1/2" dimension. Like other Harbor Freight equipment I have come into contact with, this piece is a non-functional piece of garbage. And I have wasted 2 days shop time and 25$ playing with it. I think my drawers won't have dovetail joints on them.

mountain4don wrote:I found a router base plate at Sears, along with a set of bushings. After installing it I inserted the 1/2" bushing as per the Figure F chart on page 9 of the instructions, and cut a dovetail joint. It wouldn't fit together as the pins were to wide to fit in the dovetail slot. So I started adjusting the bit down in the router, and got so short it started hitting the bushing and the pin was still 1/8" wider than the slot. Rereading the instructions I see on the bottom of page 8 to use a 7/16" bushing and set the bit so it protrudes only 1/2" from the bottom of the router, giving only a 1/4" deep cut in the wood after reaching through the 1/4" deep fingers. But the bit can't be set deep enough in the bushing to get to the 1/2" dimension. Like other Harbor Freight equipment I have come into contact with, this piece is a non-functional piece of garbage. And I have wasted 2 days shop time and 25$ playing with it. I think my drawers won't have dovetail joints on them.

Sorry to hear of such a poor result. I know that one of my readings has said to use a straight bit to remove material the width of the dove tail's neck down to the desired depth before using the dovetail bit. But it sounds like you hit other problems

So, the big question is, how do I make drawer joints?

Often times the problem with Harbor Freight tools is the instruction manual. The instructions may be wrong, so it's worth a further look. The HF style jig is typical of those sold by many dealers, so it's possible that instructions for similar jigs would be helpful. Here are instructions for the Rockler version of the dovetail jig -- http://www.rockler.com/tech/RTD10000332AA.pdf

One other point, make sure that the router bit you are using is a 1/2", 14 degree bit. If it isn't, you won't be able to make dovetails with that jig and comb.

Here are instructions for making drawer joints -- http://www.woodsmithshop.com/download/5 ... joints.pdf

mountain4don wrote:So, the big question is, how do I make drawer joints?

There's a YouTube video where a guy tests dovetail and box joints to destruction. It turns out that a box joint is as strong or stronger than a dovetail. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cRPgCMmbeyQ

And they are easy to make.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c-cQeb130P4&feature=related