Shopsmith Forums

One more short note about removing the spring - and putting it back on.

It is easiest to control the strength of that spring if you have a helper to hold the other end of the board. Not having that help, I fashioned a board long enough that I could brace one end against a fixed cabinet, then I controlled the other end like a lever. The 5/8" hole was at least a foot from my end of the 3/4" board.

The hardest part for me was putting the spring back on as the spring has to be compressed enough (an extra 3/4") to fit the clip on the end of the shaft.

Has anyone tried a valve spring compressor for a car on it. Don't know if it's the right size but wondering about it.

found the problem.... who ever took it apart last didn't have the keyway into the stationary sheave. Since I was home alone working on it, I tried to put it together myself. Well I had everything together but forgot to triple check the c-clip....as you can imagine what happen next, parts went flying only found the spring. lesson learned again!! thanks for everyones help

zanthos37 wrote:found the problem.... who ever took it apart last didn't have the keyway into the stationary sheave. Since I was home alone working on it, I tried to put it together myself. Well I had everything together but forgot to triple check the c-clip....as you can imagine what happen next, parts went flying only found the spring. lesson learned again!! thanks for everyones help

The set screw was run all the way onto the shaft? The set screw tightens down onto the key and holds it in place.

Hope the parts missed ya!:eek:

One other DA thing is to not lock the headstock prior to raising to vertical.

Most of us learned the first time, a few took more 'passes'!:D

parts missed me. yes the set screw was seated on the shaft not the keyway. now I need the c-clip and washer. atleast the SS is nice and clean... pulled the motor to take the sheaves apart, really gummed up in there. yes I forgot to lock the headstock before...learning curve:)