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Posted: Sat Jan 19, 2008 9:26 pm
by james.miller
After turning green wood make sure to clean any residue/water off of the SS them re-wax everything to prevent corrosion.
To prevent the green turnings from cracking seal them with Johnson's paste wax, Ancorseal, or other product for sealing green wood. Some people wrap them in several layers of newspaper them put them in a brown paper bag to slowly dry to try to prevent cracking.
Look on Wood Magazines Wood-turning Forum for more ideas.
Posted: Sat Jan 19, 2008 10:25 pm
by charlese
Hi mugwamp! My knowledge of turning would have filled a thimble about half way when I bought my Shopsmith. Didn't have any real need for turning at the time. When I built a wall mirror with shelf for my daughter-in-law from a plan, - found out I had to either buy or turn a finial. Being frugal, I decided to turn it. (about 2" high, not including the bottom dowel/tenon and about an inch in bottom diameter) Came out real nice too! Looked just like the plan and picture.
Read the Shopsmith workbook on turning, and the PTWFE - buffed up the tools, didn't bother to re-grind them, because I didn't know how. After setting up a 6" long block of red oak about 2 2/2"X 2 1/2" - turned the finial.
Nothing magic about it. There is a tremendous amount of knowledge out there on how to grind tools, how to hold tools, how to hold the wood, lathe speed, etc. As far as I'm concerned, the Shopsmith printed matter is as good as any for a realistic start. As mentioned in the materials, scraping action is best for beginners. That's what I did, and am just now after turning several items, getting away from and starting to shear. Not good at it yet, but so what! I'll learn as needed. Just as long as turnings come out reasonably well.
Don't let a need for buying a chuck or a live center or an extra set of tools keep you from starting. But DO put beeswax on the cup center. The tools that came with the SS, including the faceplate is all I needed until I got into my second set of pepper mills. The chuck just made it easier.
Posted: Sun Jan 20, 2008 10:16 am
by solicitr
OK, please advise the turning newbie: I've never had a lathe until now, with the SS.
Now, How does a pen-turning mandrel work with a live center? I can't see how a 60-degree cone will support it. Does one need a rotary chuck or collet at the tailstock? I'm confused.

Posted: Sun Jan 20, 2008 1:06 pm
by roy_okc
The mandrel I purchased has a deep enough hole in the end that mates to the live center that the outer rim rides on the cone, not the point. If your point is touching, then you might need to drill the hole in the mandrel a bit deeper.
solicitr wrote:Now, How does a pen-turning mandrel work with a live center? I can't see how a 60-degree cone will support it. Does one need a rotary chuck or collet at the tailstock? I'm confused.

Posted: Sun Jan 20, 2008 8:00 pm
by rkh2
solicitr
The picture in the link shows what the pen turning mandrel looks like when it is used with the live center. My mandrel in this picture is for slimline (7mm) pens and the live center in the tail stock is from SS. Hope this will give you a clearer picture of what is being talked about. The end of the mandrel has an indentation which the cone on the live center fits into the center of it. Excuse the rust on the mandrel which is cleaned up now. I had done some acrylic pens and use a wet sanding process to finish them, thus the moisture which caused the rust.
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/attachm ... 1181601125
Posted: Mon Jan 21, 2008 11:16 am
by chettrick
I had a similar problem with my pen mandrel. When it was not seated completely, It would vibrate off center. I ended up grinding off the tip on the live center enough to make it fit right. Yea, I know, damaging an SS tool but I just bought another one for when I would need the point for other tunings.
I realize spending more money on things that are not necessary may be a waste but at this time I could afford it and the aggravation eliminated. I got to a point in my life where sometimes it is worth it to spend a little extra which is less than the value of my time.
Posted: Mon Jan 21, 2008 12:43 pm
by Greenvilleguy
I read somewhere that you are "supposed" to use a 60 degree live center point with a pen mandrel, but I've never had a problem with the stock one.
Posted: Tue Jan 22, 2008 6:27 pm
by alancooke
I agree with earlier posts about taking a class or joining a club. Most Woodcraft stores offer pen and bowl turning classes for 40-50 bucks.
If neither of these options is available to you, I would suggest these videos:
'Bowl Turning - with Del Stubbs'
'The Skew Chisel' by Alan Lacer
'Son of Skew" by Alan Lacer
The Del Stubbs video really took my turning to the next level. He demonstrates how to 'ride the bevel' to prevent catches. He does this while hand turning the lathe so you can see exactly what's goin on. It's one of those things that makes the little light bulb in your head suddenly come on:) He's a great teacher.
The Alan Lacer videos basically do the same thing for the dreaded skew chisel. They also include some nifty useable projects for building your skills.
I've watched a good many videos and these are by far the best for the beginner IMHO. Richard Raffan is an incredible turner but I think he works to fast to really help the beginner and ,quite frankly, some of what he does is down right scary (like chucking up a bowl blank with the lathe turning wide open).
I'm sure you'll find that no matter what you start with, just watching the wood shavings coming off the turning tool is a blast:) Have fun, Be safe!
Posted: Wed Jan 23, 2008 7:34 am
by Greenvilleguy
Right on Alan. I totally agree with your comments about the Del Stubbs video. I wish he would do one on spindle turning.
I also agree with your comments on the Richard Raffan videos; however, his book is great for basics and is available at my library. You might try yours as well. My library has been a great source for me.
I too have taken various turning courses at Woodcraft, i.e. bowl turning, natural edge bowls and miniatures. They are a blast and very helpful.
Sometime last year, Woodworker's Journal had an article on the skew that I found very helpful. It really took the dread out of the skew for me. I haven't seen any Alan Lacer videos, but I'll see if I get them from the library.
Another great source in a PBS program called "Woodturning Workshop" with Tim Yoder. He, like Del Stubbs, keeps things simple and explains everything as he goes. Unlike Del Stubbs, he turns everything from tops to baseball bats. I get two 30 minute episodes a week here (on different channels) and record them. My only beef with him is that he seems to avoid the skew.
I also agree with the advice to start with green wood. Go somewhere they are clearing trees and cut you a piece of hardwood about 4" in diameter and 10" long. Bring it home and make a weed pot. They are fun and easy and the ladies love them. Google "Turning a weed pot". (If you just Google "weed pot", you'll get articles on Marijuana.)
I think I understand
Posted: Sun Feb 03, 2008 7:10 pm
by mugwamp
Wow, thank you very much for all that information. Most of you confirmed what I thought I had to do to get started. I like the idea of turning green wood from the woodpile (and the suggestion to watch out for wetness and rust). I did buy a pen mandrel for the SS and a 60 deg. cone live center from Ebay... as well as slim pen kits. The videos that are online and the one from Penn State are excellent for beginning pen projects as well and my 12 yr old daughter really wants to make pens as a fundraising project for next year.
Thanks again... you're really a friendly bunch!
Now I'm going to read some other posts and learn!