Shopsmith Forums

If those spares are OK, put em on and save the rusted ones for a rainy day...

Keep the arbor soaked for a few days and tap on it regularly... it'll come loose soon...maybe...

What part of SC are you located? I'm in Greenville... no rust here

If the Kroil and Evapo-Rust don't get the arbor off, apply a little heat.

tred1956 wrote:Thanks so much for all the input. Take back to the top with new question in original post.
thanks
Doug

So the saw blade arbor is rusted onto the shaft. HOW did ya get the saw blade off then?

Rock the arbor back and forth a couple times a day and keep it soaked with the kroil.

Just got back from the shop. Arbor had been soaking for 2 or 3 days, after a couple of wiggles with a wrench and pipe strap it broke loose and came right off. Thanks for all the help fellows.
I plan on a major disassemble and deep cleaning /lubricating, so I am sure this won't be the last question

Is there an easy way to deep clean the aluminum parts? They have a lot of film build up on them. I read to clean with alcohol before waxing parts that wood slide on, but how about the handles and wing locks? Can they be brought to a brighter finish ?

Bill I am in Anderson, not far at all from you. Daddy loved this SS but his age has prevented him from using it for some time. When I first talked with him about buying it from him. We went to his shop to have a look, but to our saddness a huge limb had fallen on the roof right above his SS (exposing it to the elements). It broke his heart to see it this way, so I have a BIG JOB ahead of me. This is the reason for such major cleaning/lubricating/maintainance adventure. But the Good Lord willing it will be restored to its original shape. Not in a hurry.

It runs and sounds great, but I am sure it is in bad need of lubrication inside the main unit. Going to clean the outside and get everything smooth and waxed before lubricating the head assembly.

As a side note My Wife and I are in the process of BEATING breast cancer. Have already had a lumpectomy, but did nort get it all. Dr says a mastectomy will get it all (not in her lymph nodes) so we are scheduling that now. God WILL see us through. So if I am gone for a few days, I will be back, can already tell this is a wonderful and knowledgable bunch of guys.

Thanks for all the help. And INSIST your wife have regular Mamograms, This is how we caught this so quick making or prognosis so GOOD.
Doug

tred1956 wrote:Hi,
Now for my next ????? The saw blade arbor is also rusted on the spindle shaft. Removed the blade so I don't get CUT. Removed the set screw and have it filled with Kroil. Any other suggestions? Or just keep it full of Kroil and wait.

Thanks in advance
Doug

I'm not sure what Kroil is but I'd squirt penetrating oil into both the set screw hole and also between the arbor and the shaft (use one of those thin aerosal straws that comes with WD40 etc.). I've never had this problem with my SS but certainly have with rusted-frozen nuts on old cars and penetrating oil always did the trick. You let it sit for a little while and give it a firm whack to dislodge things - since you are dealing with your SS, I'd probably advise that whack be made with a rubber mallet or otherwise don't go too crazy on it - the idea is to jar things loose after the penetrating oil has sat for a bit. If it still doesn't come loose, add some more penetrating oil and wait some more.

In the case of frozen nuts on a car, the nut is threaded, so you can get a wrench on it and apply torque. For the arbor, it is not threaded on there, so you need to get a big wrench or set of channel locks or something like that you can get on the shaft and behind the arbor to be able to apply outward pressure and try to pop it off. For something like channel locks, I'd wrap a bit of duct tape around each jaw so it doesn't scuff up your shaft or arbor.

tred1956 wrote:J

Is there an easy way to deep clean the aluminum parts? They have a lot of film build up on them. I read to clean with alcohol before waxing parts that wood slide on, but how about the handles and wing locks? Can they be brought to a brighter finish ?

.
Doug

I used a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser on my 10er table and knobs and was pleased with the result. The knobs came out nice and shiny and table, though still gray is many shades lighter and cleaner looking. Magic Erasers are great for cleaning textured surfaces.

A word of caution though, when I did the table I used it dry and it produced an irritating dust, so next time I would use it damp as per the directions and perhaps use a dust mask if doing a large surface like a table.

Good question about cleaning and shining the aluminum parts before waxing - I've been meaning to ask that as well.

As for the breast cancer - hang in there. I'm a 35 year survivor of Hodgkin's Disease (Lymph Node Cancer) - they removed my spleen and I went through two years of radiation and chemotherapy in '77-'78 and am thankful every day for doctors and medical staff that kicked my cancer to the curb. Certainly oncological medicine has come a long way in 35 years, so I'm sure you guys are in good hands. As for everyone else, see your Doctor regularly and spend lots of time with friends, family and focus on the important stuff in life. My Dad passed away six years ago and I sure regret to this day not squeezing that hunting or fishing trip in that we often discussed...I was too busy with work and "life" to find time for the things that really would matter in the long run.

I'm 2 yrs post cancer although not considered in remission until 5yrs I still feel lucky. Hang in their, do what you are told and stay positive.

tred1956 wrote:Is there an easy way to deep clean the aluminum parts? They have a lot of film build up on them. I read to clean with alcohol before waxing parts that wood slide on, but how about the handles and wing locks? Can they be brought to a brighter finish ?


Doug

This MAY be more than ya asked for, but read here for some tips.

http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showpos ... tcount=169

tred1956, take care of your wife and focus on beating the cancer. My aunt is a breast cancer survivor for over 25 years now. But the fight did take a major toll on her.

In the meantime, you might want the read the whole thread containing the post beeg linked to. MickyD documented every step of his restoration and that thread covers everything. Rust removal, aluminum polishing, painting, electrical, etc. It's probably one of the (if not THE) most valuable threads on this forum.

Start here: https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=3078