Shopsmith Forums

Looks like I may have another issue with the drive sleeve. I just looked at other pictures of a drive sleeve and it appears that the inner bearing that is closest to the quill should fit up against a retaining ring, while mine has always fitted up close to the nylon hub that the quill spindle goes into. Which way is correct, and if it needs correcting, how do I push the bearing down the shaft? Here is a picture to show what I am talking about. I am holding the drive sleeve by the white nylon hub.

Vellly intellesting!

The purpose of the ring is as a stop for the bearing. The bearing should be against the ring.

The bearing needs to be pushed up to the ring. The nylon coupler prevents access to the inner bearing race.

I am guessing removal of the shaft caused the bearing to slip out on the shaft. That indicates it is free to move back.

I would concentrate on coupling removal, then bearing relocating. Prying between the bearing and the coupling may get either or both to move. Do not pry against the bearing shields.

The shaft with bearings will not seat into the headstock correctly with the front bearing incorrectly positioned on the shaft.

Verify the rear bearing is also against the rear stop ring.

As a point of clarification. the large spiral split rings at the front and rear end are retaining rings, and the stop rings are small rings on the shaft that are usually not seen as the bearings and pulley obscure them.

The bearing that is closest to the end that the various SPTs attach to is positioned up against a retaining ring. The gap between that bearing and the center, I believe called the pulley, where the belt fits on is equal to the thickness of the retaining ring between the two.

I am not sure what a 'correct' positioning of the pulley on the shaft is other than to properly align with the idler shaft pulley which is fixed(not adjustable).

If you have not moved it I would leave it alone. Otherwise remove the set screw and sight into the bore to determine where it originally was positioned.

Lastly after idler shaft is installed, check belt alignment. Move main shaft pulley for best alignment. Insure the set screw sits in the middle of the flat and is really torqued tight.

I have not touched the pulley, and have full confidence that the original owner never even opened up the headstock. I was able to slip the nylon coupler off and able to slide the bearing back down to be up against the retaining ring.

How hard is it for someone to remove and replace the bearings?

rdavidp wrote:I have not touched the pulley, and have full confidence that the original owner never even opened up the headstock. I was able to slip the nylon coupler off and able to slide the bearing back down to be up against the retaining ring.

How hard is it for someone to remove and replace the bearings?

Very if one does not have a bearing puller.

Installing new ones is easier, but still not trivial. A bearing press helps.

Unless damage/dryness is indicated I would leave them be. With yer newly gained knowledge and experience, replacing them later will be a cake walk!:D

Also if the bearing moved to the stop ring easily, that would indicate it moved when being extracted from the headstock. It would not have fit into the headstock in that extended position.

In that case, I will leave the bearings alone. Also, thank you very much for all the help.

The pulley set screw should always align up with the flat for the accessory hub on the end of the drive sleeve shaft. If not, then the pulley has rotated on the drive sleeve shaft at some time. I always retighten the set screw in the pulley as I have found a few that had loosen and rotated on the drive sleeve shaft. I have actually indented the hollow drive sleeve with the set screw when I really tighten the set screw. May be too much some times but never had any problems later.

I may be wrong but I didn't think that the rear bearing can move that far along the drive sleeve by itself if the rear bearing is retained by the spring clip. If you look into the headstock their should be another round spring retainer in a groove inside the headstock. If it was not installed at the factory it will permit the front bearing to move. It is the same part number as the spring retainer at the rear of the shaft. Bill Mayo may have more on this. I have never seen one missing but their is always the possibility.
Bill V

wa2crk wrote:I may be wrong but I didn't think that the rear bearing can move that far along the drive sleeve by itself if the rear bearing is retained by the spring clip. If you look into the headstock their should be another round spring retainer in a groove inside the headstock. If it was not installed at the factory it will permit the front bearing to move. It is the same part number as the spring retainer at the rear of the shaft. Bill Mayo may have more on this. I have never seen one missing but their is always the possibility.
Bill V

It was the front bearing that was 'displaced'. I believe it was 'displaced' while removing the shaft asm from the headstock.

I agree the extra length makes it impossible for it to fit between the two split retaining rings.