Shopsmith Forums

Cast iron rusts very quickly! < a day.

I have been using self etching primer on steel parts as well as aluminum parts, but have doubts it is beneficial on steel parts other than to temporarily prevent rusting.

I painted over the original paint on cast iron 10E castings.

Cleaning up aluminum parts is tricky. Too aggressive and erosion occurs. As for polishing, the oxide polished better than the bare aluminum. Once ya break through the oxide ya have two tone coloration.

I have resolved myself to accept 'better' as a goal. I am far less aggressive with aluminum cleaning than I used to be.

Beware oil/grease/ whatever contamination especially with aluminum parts.

Bad_Synapse_Labs wrote: . . .
Also...I am in the beginning process of custom knobs and face plate for my 10 ER using my 3D printer. If interested or know how to build up your CAD I just need .STL file and will be more than happy to help. Hell, if you're interested about 3D printing and Shopsmith send me a shout.

MrHart could use a table insert for the scroll saw!:D

Do you have any dimension or cocktail napkin drawings? I will be more than happy to help with that.

So Bad, how are you doing on your restore? Hope things are well with you.

I am doing well and it seems you are as well. Thats outstanding!

It is funny you inquired about the 10ER. Due to the fact its winter My 10ER is in the unattached garage(AKA The smelly studio). So my progress was hampered by the cold. However, I have been chomping on the bit to finish my Breakdown, Clean, and Rebuild. So I braved the cold and picked up where I left off and now it is safe to say I just need to sandblast and then a fit check.

During the winter I worked with some Arduino parts to make an optical tach with digital readout which eventually progressed to a all in one digital control for prime pulley. I also spent some time playing with different motors to use for this control. I finally tore apart my treadmill and have a perfect variable speed AC motor.
I also applied some linear bearings to head for decreased resistance while on way tubes. That was a nightmare.

How are you?

I'd really like some more information on these linear bearings. And pictures, please!

heathicus wrote:I'd really like some more information on these linear bearings. And pictures, please!

You got a thing for nightmares?:D

I am always poor on the taking photos of progress side. I will however get some off in the next few days.

To give a data dump on what I did and the mistakes I ran into. The bearing came from McMaster Carr(part # will come later).
My head is hollow so I decided to use the negative space instead of removing material. In my first attempt to make a mount for them, when I placed them and then tried to insert way tubes, I completely overlooked the fact the bearings need to be in line of each other. Also in a screw up on my part I got self aligning bearings that were a tad too big in OD. That turned out to be a blessing. The friction occurs primarily from the top of the head and gravity of course pushing down. The bigger bearings aloud a little play.I see a vast improvement in the locomotion of the head. During this endeavor I added some bubble levels so I would not throw of alignment. The level are inconspicuous but I think I will keep as a preventative.

So far my 10ER has made me DIY a sandblaster, DIY a course tubular brush for a drill and now I just picked up a dead in the water floor freezer so I can make a DIY powder coat vault.

I also did a whole lot of 3D scanning of various smaller components to put in a library for future 3D printing in the event of a break or an addition. Another thing I did over the winter was to resize the MAJORITY of all allen head hardware placements so I can use just use 1 size tool for all needs I also have plans on identifying all hardware points by color i.e. allen heads will be red.

I am sure I will get hate mail or the doubters. I stated in the genesis of my forum I always go balls out and I will always try to push myself and always try to innovate. As I type i am drawing up a psuedo table that bows in the middle to fit my shop vac. That way,due to gravity the majority of my waste will fall on to said table and the vacuum will promote a removal. I will put a lattice work light shield on top so I can rest tools on this removable table. This table is only on paper so far. I give you this information just to better explain what Ido. I always over engineer everything. How ever I have doing it. Pics will be here soon.

Oh by the way, if anyone is interested while working on the Arduino board I by a fluke cam across a means to control the speed of the motor via my android. I dont see a practical purpose but it will also send the mechanical details of the motor i.e. speed. I am also working on an android means of watching the thermal build up in a few areas using sensors. Does have anyone have any input on where I could place these very small footprint sensors? I have a total 8 I can place because of room on my card. I know I dont need that many, but any intel shared would be great.

Hindsight being what it is. The bearing idea and some of my other ideas are not very practical, I understand that. It is my 10ER. I didnt do anything to yours. I do plan on using my baby as well. I dont recommend my ideas to all because they are just "niceities". the SS you have functions great I just always push the envelope.

Again pics are coming soon.

I will be asking painting advice soon. Metal Painting is a weak point for me.

Nobody is giving you any grief (at least publicly) so no need to be so defensive.

I'm just fascinated by the prospect of the linear bearings and want more information - like pictures - to understand it better. I doubt it's something I would go through the trouble of doing myself, but I'd still love to see what you've done.

I'm also interested in the 3D printing. I've researched some of the kits before, and have had the chance to see a couple of professional (not hobbyist kits) in action and I absolutely love the idea.

For the replacement parts you would be making with your 3D printer, would you be using the printed pieces to create molds and then make metal parts from those molds? I didn't think the printed material (ABS plastic?) would be strong enough to make a direct replacement part in this case.