Removing/Installing Rolled Pins

dgale · Post by **dgale** » Wed Dec 19, 2012 11:09 pm

Great advice - thanks!

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Thu Dec 20, 2012 10:43 am

Bill
You take all the fun out of shop work half the fun is spending half a day searching for the parts you knocked out of things.

Great idea!

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Thu Dec 20, 2012 10:52 am

Ed in Tampa wrote:Bill
You take all the fun out of shop work half the fun is spending half a day searching for the parts you knocked out of things.

Great idea!

"HALF" a "DAY"?

Cover the floor with sawdust/debris, then play dropsy!:D

skou · Post by **skou** » Thu Dec 20, 2012 11:31 pm

Ed in Tampa wrote:Bill
You take all the fun out of shop work half the fun is spending half a day searching for the parts you knocked out of things.

Great idea!

Bill's eyes aren't as old as mine are.

Oh, only one word. Magnet!

With one of those nice shiny floors, those tiny things will roll for ever! If, you have a layer of handy sawdust, or even better, lathe shavings, just drop the magnet near-by, and you don't have to make ANOTHER trip to the hardware store.

Speaking of "real" hardware stores, there was one in Honolulu, I really liked. Guy knew where (and what) EVERYTHING was. When HomeD opened up, the old guy got even more of my business, even though HD was cheaper.

steve

skou · Post by **skou** » Thu Dec 20, 2012 11:35 pm

Ed in Tampa wrote:Just make sure your punch isn't too small as to enter into the rolled pin. If that happens it can expand the rolled pin to really wedge it into the hole.

Been there done that and it wasn't pretty!!!!!!!!!:eek:

I used to work on machines that have roll-pins. NEVER use a tapered punch.

If you can't get the punch out of a customer's copy machine because you used a tapered punch, your goose is cooked. BTDT! Got the hat, t-shirt, and the koozie.

steve

terrydowning · Post by **terrydowning** » Fri Dec 21, 2012 10:56 am

These are what you want.

http://www.harborfreight.com/28-piece-transfer-punch-set-3577.html

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Dec 21, 2012 11:44 am

A differing 'opinion'!;)

http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/NNSRIT2?P ... rdless+Ads

I would not use a transfer punch to remove a tension pin. Not good for either the pin or the punch.

Yes they both have the necessary straight shank and are 'hardened'.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Fri Dec 21, 2012 11:49 am

I strongly recommend that you decide what sizes are needed and buy a couple (two or three) appropriate sized pin punches.

Yes, I am hung up on "use the right tool for the job at hand". Pin punches are to be used for driving out roll pins.

Transfer punches (especially those from HB, are for transferred hole centers (typically to metal BTW).

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Fri Dec 21, 2012 11:58 am

terrydowning wrote:These are what you want.

http://www.harborfreight.com/28-piece-transfer-punch-set-3577.html

Why would you use a transfer punch to drive a roll pin. I'll bet you use awls to pry up can lids too.

dgale · Post by **dgale** » Fri Dec 21, 2012 12:24 pm

I actually went by Harbor Freight yesterday...I normally am pretty leery of the quality of some of their stuff but we have a HF store <1/4mile from my office, so I thought it was worth checking before I ordered online. I ended up buying a set of these:
http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-long-drive-pin-punch-set-93111.html

I actually think the quality looks pretty good and as always with HF, you can't beat the price, plus no shipping as we have a local store. I haven't tried them out yet but it did include the two sizes that SDSSmith recommended above. I made the mistake of using the wrong type and size punch that Ed mentioned above when I was trying to remove the pin in the pivot rod when trying to remove my way tubes...as noted, I ended up flaring out the pin and then had to drill it out, which made a hassle and a bit of a mess...lesson learned and now hopefully I have the right tool for the job.