What have I done? the motor will not run.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Dec 21, 2012 4:04 pm

If possible, look in the access hole and see if wiring to the switch/motor is close to the quadrant arm(porkchop) or worm gear. If so, a very close look for possible cause is next.

Too much dust can lead to over heating which can lead to winding insulation failure.

backhertz · Post by **backhertz** » Fri Dec 21, 2012 5:14 pm

If I remember correctly, there is a centrifugal switch in the motor which will switch the starting capacitor in/out of circuit once the motor gets to speed. Perhaps that was the source of the click? A short usually makes a snap sound… But honestly, a click to you might be a snap to you.

I never care for the Mark V headstock with the 1 1/8 HP as if something else was plugged in and I turned the Shopsmith up and then turned on the Shop Vac, I'd trip the circuit breaker. So that is the reason I have a bunch of separate 20 amp outlets in my workshop. No more tripped breakers for me!

But then the PowerPro came up which permanently solved that problem as it uses the DVR motor.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Fri Dec 21, 2012 5:29 pm

godavid2 wrote:The pop was in the motor which was when the breaker opened. I was cranking the speed up with it pop. Like I said before I will clean her up and see what happens. I'm also wondering if too much dust in the motor can cause a short circuit?

After resetting the breaker, have you applied power to the Mark V again?

Having done a good visual inspection and finding nothing, I would try that again while keeping my hand on the switch for a quick disconnect.

godavid2 · Post by **godavid2** » Fri Dec 21, 2012 10:27 pm

Dusty, I blew lots and lots of dust out of the motor. Did not see anything that could have cause a short circuit. I did notice the drive belt was worn out ie. less than 1/2 wide so am going to order new belts after the holidays. I think, Shopsmith closed early for the holidays. I did not try to start it back up yet. I did not want to put it back together and then have to take a part again to put new belts on. Although, I probably need to check the motor out No sure what to do now. I also need to reset the speed control, thanks for your help!

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sat Dec 22, 2012 12:44 am

godavid2 wrote:Dusty, I blew lots and lots of dust out of the motor. Did not see anything that could have cause a short circuit. I did notice the drive belt was worn out ie. less than 1/2 wide so am going to order new belts after the holidays. I think, Shopsmith closed early for the holidays. I did not try to start it back up yet. I did not want to put it back together and then have to take a part again to put new belts on. Although, I probably need to check the motor out No sure what to do now. I also need to reset the speed control, thanks for your help!

So, does it run with no belt? Does it 'hum'? Does it trip the breaker?

All this 'activity' is not helping answer the original question(click when tightening the screw).

godavid2 · Post by **godavid2** » Sat Dec 22, 2012 10:27 am

Your right JPG, I don't have a fix to the click with the first head stock because I got side tracked with problems trying to see if the second motor had the any clicks to it. I only hear the click at the end when the motor is coming to a stop. The way I understand the eccentric bushing is that there are two screws on the outside of the bushing and a allen set screw hidden by the idler shaft assembly bolt. Like I had originally stated all I wanted to do was adjust the tension on the poly belt. So I loosened the idler bolt and moved the eccentric bushing with a screw driver and then tightened the bolt again. Then started the motor and it started okay then turned it off and noticed the clicking. Bill Mayo thought it was from over tightening the set screw but I'm confused as to which set screw is he referring too. I loosened the set screw in front and retightened it. No change! Bill also talked about a 1" body screw that he uses to hold in the idler shaft. I'm also not sure about how that resolves the problem with the click when the idler shaft comes to a stop. Thanks for your help and patience:)

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sat Dec 22, 2012 11:17 am

godavid2 wrote:Your right JPG, I don't have a fix to the click with the first head stock because I got side tracked with problems trying to see if the second motor had the any clicks to it. I only hear the click at the end when the motor is coming to a stop. The way I understand the eccentric bushing is that there are two screws on the outside of the bushing and a allen set screw hidden by the idler shaft assembly bolt. Like I had originally stated all I wanted to do was adjust the tension on the poly belt. So I loosened the idler bolt and moved the eccentric bushing with a screw driver and then tightened the bolt again. Then started the motor and it started okay then turned it off and noticed the clicking. Bill Mayo thought it was from over tightening the set screw but I'm confused as to which set screw is he referring too. I loosened the set screw in front and retightened it. No change! Bill also talked about a 1" body screw that he uses to hold in the idler shaft. I'm also not sure about how that resolves the problem with the click when the idler shaft comes to a stop. Thanks for your help and patience:)

Click NORMAL!!!! You are hearing the start switch return to stopped position.

Two external screws(one with separate washer screwed into the headstock, and one with 'built in washer' that screws into the eccentric) indicates you have a newer style eccentric. You may or may not have the newer two bearing idler shaft.

The set screw and the 'idler bolt' are the ones to be cautious with.

The 'upper' external screw with flat washer prevents the eccentric from creeping out. The washer head screw prevents the eccentric from creeping in and the bearing from creeping out.

Bill was referring to the 'upper' screw/washer that he adds to "A" headstocks and it is a fender washer(large diameter) that he uses. That larger washer prevents both the eccentric and bearing from creeping out. He adds it to "A" headstocks and discards the original 'clips'(interesting history, but not relevant to yours) .

Since you have already determined the set screw is not over tightened, increase the poly-v belt tension and tighten the clamp bolt til the split washer is 'flatened'.

I am assuming there is only one source of the 'click' and that increasing belt tension does not add a second.

godavid2 · Post by **godavid2** » Sat Dec 22, 2012 12:26 pm

Really, how come when I backoff the tension there is no click? thanks JPG

wa2crk · Post by **wa2crk** » Sat Dec 22, 2012 12:56 pm

Might throw my 2 cents worth in here. If the unit has received poor service in the past there may be some wear in the keyway slot or the key itself on the control sheave. The click is caused when the sheave moves over the shaft takes up the slack caused by the wear. Or the small bearing in the snout bearing of the control sheave is a bit tight and the retaining loop is rotating and catching on the spring clip. May be far out but worth the investigation if the unit is open.
Bill V

backhertz · Post by **backhertz** » Sat Dec 22, 2012 3:27 pm

godavid2, where are you located? Are you able to take pics or maybe a YouTube video? It's been a while since I had a Mark V headstock apart. Not everyone is computer savvy, but sometimes a pic/video with sound is worth more than many emails.

There are some members on this forum who are very talented when it comes to posting pictures, drawings, and figures. Do you have a manual with an illustrated parts breakdown? That might be useful in identifying the items Bill or others have suggested.

I am trying to use an iPad for the first time and I can't say I like it.

Well good luck.