Shopsmith Forums

This project is simple in concept but has been a real chore to put together in Sketchup. I thought I knew most of the basic but I was so wrong.

I do have all the parts defined and am now about ready to begin construction. When that finally happens, I'll know just how much I really understand (both Sketchup and the Jig).

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NOTE: The blue block is intended to represent the blades' position. The backer board is also not shown.

Conceptually, there are no differences depicted here from previous postings.

A concept very slowly comes into reality. Now that I have it where I can touch and feel, I am not sure that I am going to like it. I must make a trip to the hardware store. I need some hardware before I can complete the job.

I still need knobs and some small metal pieces to fabricate some parts.

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Wow Dusty your Sketchup skills are amazing. I need to get with the program too.

tomsalwasser wrote:Wow Dusty your Sketchup skills are amazing. I need to get with the program too.

Thanks. Sketchup has become a very useful tool; almost a necessity for me. If they ever discontinue the free version....Ooops, I'll say no more.

Its looking quite promising Dusty

Have you thought about how to attach it to the ss yet? I saw an article I had in shop notes where they made a box joint jig for a ts... they mounted the the adjustable fence to a main fence, that was rigid. The rigid fence had two vertical sides that fit into each or the miter slots. Looked like a nice approach to eliminate any slop and square the jig on the table.

If you like the idea, let me know and I can go research the back issues and let you know which one it is. I could also sketch one up by hand and email it to you...I've never played in sketch up before

Thanks
Geo

eagleta2 wrote:Its looking quite promising Dusty

Have you thought about how to attach it to the ss yet? I saw an article I had in shop notes where they made a box joint jig for a ts... they mounted the the adjustable fence to a main fence, that was rigid. The rigid fence had two vertical sides that fit into each or the miter slots. Looked like a nice approach to eliminate any slop and square the jig on the table.

If you like the idea, let me know and I can go research the back issues and let you know which one it is. I could also sketch one up by hand and email it to you...I've never played in sketch up before

Thanks
Geo

I was going to equip this one with two miter slot runners but it would be also be very easy to attach it to a miter gauge fence.

Thanks for the offer and any reference documentation that you might have. The more input we utilize, the more likely we are to come up with a good solution.

Here are some pictures that I took as a result of your input, Geo. You can see that with better timing and some conceptual changes, the miter gauge or gauges could be utilized.

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Until I took these pictures, I did not realize that I made this whole thing 1/2" shorter than the plan calls for. It was suppose to be the same width as the main table.

I like the inclusion of the 1/4" hardboard backer. It is easily replaceable and will certainly help to keep the edges of the cuts to come out square.

dusty wrote:Until I took these pictures, I did not realize that I made this whole thing 1/2" shorter than the plan calls for. It was suppose to be the same width as the main table.

Oh NO! Now you have to start all over again. However, I can accept less than perfect so if you will PM me I'll send you my address and even money for shipping.

db5 wrote:Oh NO! Now you have to start all over again. However, I can accept less than perfect so if you will PM me I'll send you my address and even money for shipping.

Don't make that sort of offer unless you are serious. I have never sold anything that I made but that could change.

Oh, you did not say you wanted to buy it.

dusty wrote:Don't make that sort of offer unless you are serious. I have never sold anything that I made but that could change.

Oh, you did not say you wanted to buy it.

Oh I would have to cut it down even smaller to fit my M5 table(a tad less for the 10E table).

I never realized the 10E table was wider(< 1") than the Mark 5. Is is 2" shallower though.

You got me seriously considering making a jig myself. I need to create box joints in the corners of several shallow(< 1") drawers(a long term project). I would add a square slider(removable) on the blade side of the pin(~1/8") to hold the parts vertical(and against the pin from afar).

Keep up the good thinking!!!