Shopsmith Forums

woodjoint70 wrote:The main advantages of 220 over 110 is in the power usage and output torque. If you are not on the machine everyday all day, you might not notice the difference in either of these. If you are in a production shop, you might consider it. It will make a difference in your overall power bill and in tough situations you would have more torque to turn the bit.

How so????????

JPG40504 wrote:How so????????

Because it draws half the current on twice as many lines.

In reality, we pay for power consumed. Power (in watts) = Voltage (110VAC or 220 VAC) * Current (14 amps or 7 amps).

We pay for watts no matter how they are consumed, so 7 amps at 220 is the same number of watts as 14 amps at 110. But that is not the whole story.

What is missing from the basic formulas above are loss and efficiency. 220 has less heat loss in the wire getting to the machine, because loss is more a function of amps, then voltage. And more importantly a DVR motor varies the power used based on load, where a conventional motor draws the same power over most of its operating range. The data from Nova seems to suggest that this can be as much as 50% more efficient. Also no motor is 100% efficient in its conversion of watts to HP, DVR motors do a better job at this conversion.

Where you can expect your 5x0 to draw close to 14 amps when it is powered on (a little more on startup and with long wires), a DVR motor at 220 may only draw 4 amps for most of its operation.

paulmcohen wrote:The only place I notice the difference and it could be in my head is when I use my 8lb Dadonator blade doing 3/4 dado's. The blade comes up to speed noticeably faster and stays there no matter what I cut.

Eight pounds of dado blade? WOW. Which model Dadonator do you have?

You speak of it so often I decided I needed to do some checking (price checking mostly). I may have to replace my old Freud set after these many years.

dusty wrote:Eight pounds of dado blade? WOW. Which model Dadonator do you have?

You speak of it so often I decided I needed to do some checking (price checking mostly). I may have to replace my old Freud set after these many years.

The 8" I got it on sale before they came out with the 6". From everything I have read the 6" is every bit as good except if you need to cut a "really deep dado" (not sure how deep that is). The deepest I have every cut is 1/2" and that could be done by either size blade. The extra momentum of the 8" blade may make for smoother cuts but it does tax a 1 1/4 HP motor getting up to speed.

paulmcohen wrote:The 8" I got it on sale before they came out with the 6". From everything I have read the 6" is every bit as good except if you need to cut a "really deep dado" (not sure how deep that is). The deepest I have every cut is 1/2" and that could be done by either size blade. The extra momentum of the 8" blade may make for smoother cuts but it does tax a 1 1/4 HP motor getting up to speed.

So does the steel sanding disk but once up to speed it works fine. I would assume that once the dadonator is up to speed its' performance is equal to being mounted on the PowerPro also.

If you have only cut 1/2" dados. is there any advantage to having an 8" blade over using a 6" dado blade?

Using an 8" dado blade, what is the deepest dado you could cut? I assume about 3 1/2" and why would you do that?

dusty wrote:So does the steel sanding disk but once up to speed it works fine. I would assume that once the dadonator is up to speed its' performance is equal to being mounted on the PowerPro also.

If you have only cut 1/2" dados. is there any advantage to having an 8" blade over using a 6" dado blade?

Using an 8" dado blade, what is the deepest dado you could cut? I assume about 3 1/2" and why would you do that?

All else being equal(typically not) the 8" has faster velocity at the periphery(that is why more power is needed to drive it). It also has a longer cut path. It has more space for teeth. . . .

For most of what 'we' do, a 6" dado blade set will do. Not realizing that, caused me to have an 8" set. I save since acquired a 6" set. Either will do for most 'dadoing/groove cutting I have done since.

If inertia is yer goal, attach a steel sanding disk to the aux(jointer etc. shaft)!:D Be careful and tighten securely!:eek:

dusty wrote:So does the steel sanding disk but once up to speed it works fine. I would assume that once the dadonator is up to speed its' performance is equal to being mounted on the PowerPro also.

If you have only cut 1/2" dados. is there any advantage to having an 8" blade over using a 6" dado blade?

Using an 8" dado blade, what is the deepest dado you could cut? I assume about 3 1/2" and why would you do that?

The 8" blade hits the insert before its maximum depth and the arbor washers get in the way. I have never measured the maximum depth but I am sure it is a lot less than 3 1/2 inches. The reason for a deep dado is in a saddle joint like for interlocking sawhorses but they are typically made from fir and don't need the precision this blade is capable of.

The other advantage of the PowerPro is to run this blade at 6,000 RPM or more, not something I have tried but I may someday.

BTW: Both blades are on sale right now, with the 6" going for $179 and the 8" for $209.