Shopsmith Forums

ryanbp01 wrote:I have been quietly saving up my pennies and am still vacillating between the DIY upgrade and taking the heasdstock down to Dayton (after calling ahead of course). As a quick review, what are the advantages and disadvantages of both ways?

BPR

If you are willing to sell everything you don't need any longer and your old stuff is in good shape, you don't need to save many pennies to pay for the upgrade. The downside is it takes 4 hours work.

Everything of importance is replaced so the upgrade headstock is every bit as good as a reconditioned one. If you get a new headstock you will get a better tailstock safety guard (<$4 new but more difficult to install safely then on a new headstock). There is a lot of discussion about it, some people get a new machine and remove it immediately, I upgraded an old machine and after hitting the spinning shaft once I would never remove the guard.

paulmcohen wrote:If you are willing to sell everything you don't need any longer and your old stuff is in good shape, you don't need to save many pennies to pay for the upgrade. The downside is it takes 4 hours work.

Everything of importance is replaced so the upgrade headstock is every bit as good as a reconditioned one. If you get a new headstock you will get a better tailstock safety guard (<$4 new but more difficult to install safely then on a new headstock). There is a lot of discussion about it, some people get a new machine and remove it immediately, I upgraded an old machine and after hitting the spinning shaft once I would never remove the guard.

You have said this several times and it still amazes me. EBay prices don't support your statement UNLESS you sold everything that wasn't nailed down (including the kitchen sink).

Drive Shaft Assembly

Idler Shaft Assembly

Motor and Motor Sheaves

Idler Sheaves

Two Bearing Quill

Belts

Power Cord

What else did you sell? Target $1800.00 less a few pennies.

paulmcohen wrote:If you are willing to sell everything you don't need any longer and your old stuff is in good shape, you don't need to save many pennies to pay for the upgrade. The downside is it takes 4 hours work.

Everything of importance is replaced so the upgrade headstock is every bit as good as a reconditioned one. If you get a new headstock you will get a better tailstock safety guard (<$4 new but more difficult to install safely then on a new headstock). There is a lot of discussion about it, some people get a new machine and remove it immediately, I upgraded an old machine and after hitting the spinning shaft once I would never remove the guard.

It's called a shaft guard (I thought it was a hub protector at first) and it is part of the new Mark 7 along with a modified belt cover which has 2 threaded holes for special 5/32" screws. I bought a 520 last year which the owner had added a shaft guard himself by simply drilling a couple of holes and gluing nuts to the inside of the belt cover for the screws.

The idler shaft is used primarily for the jointer, spins very fast and it smarts if you happen to have your fingers near when the quill is rotating at warp speed. Doh- so like the old two line joke where a guy goes to the doctor and says, "Doc it hurts when I do this…" The doctor says, "Then don't do that…" So don't do that. I read other members have inadvertently made contact with either of the shafts and lost skin and have subsequently added the shaft guard.

If you install the shaft guard, it means the you lose the ability to turn the quill by hand from the rear. Shopsmith came out with the quill twister which is designed for that purpose.

There is one thread about the quill twister which traintomguy posted a pic of something he made up with a hub, a 1/4" driver, and a power coupler. Ultimately, it's up to you to do what is best for you.

dusty wrote:You have said this several times and it still amazes me. EBay prices don't support your statement UNLESS you sold everything that wasn't nailed down (including the kitchen sink).

Drive Shaft Assembly

Idler Shaft Assembly

Motor and Motor Sheaves

Idler Sheaves

Two Bearing Quill

Belts

Power Cord

What else did you sell? Target $1800.00 less a few pennies.

Speed increaser, Speed decreaser are the bulk of the $, lift assist cylinder, old parts from double tilt upgrade, old casters (for more than I paid for the new 3" ones) and I didn't pay close to $1,800.

backhertz wrote: I read other members have inadvertently made contact with either of the shafts and lost skin and have subsequently added the shaft guard.

If you install the shaft guard, it means the you lose the ability to turn the quill by hand from the rear. Shopsmith came out with the quill twister which is designed for that purpose.

There is one thread about the quill twister which traintomguy posted a pic of something he made up with a hub, a 1/4" driver, and a power coupler. Ultimately, it's up to you to do what is best for you.

I can vouch for the fact that it hurts and the few dollars I spent was worth it to me. I did not put nuts on the inside, too dangerous IMHO. I also purchased the twister when it was on sale with a new coupler. I use the new coupler with the PowerPro and use the old one for the twister. I don't use the twister often but I like it want it is needed.

I epoxied the nuts to the inside of the belt cover. The used 520 I purchased last year were not epoxied and simply felt to the bottom of the belt cover as I unscrewed the 5/32 cap screws while the headstock was powered off- but they are now. I was too cheap to pay for new belt covers as I have a couple PowerPro headstocks upgraded. One needs to know when they reach the law of diminishing returns. I'm comfortable now since my PowerPros run smoothly.

backhertz wrote:I epoxied the nuts to the inside of the belt cover. The used 520 I purchased last year were not epoxied and simply felt to the bottom of the belt cover as I unscrewed the 5/32 cap screws while the headstock was powered off- but they are now. I was too cheap to pay for new belt covers as I have a couple PowerPro headstocks upgraded. One needs to know when they reach the law of diminishing returns. I'm comfortable now since my PowerPros run smoothly.

I just tapped the holes into the cover and everything sees to work great.

Sometimes I wonder why I always do things the hard way…:D

backhertz wrote:Sometimes I wonder why I always do things the hard way…:D

Your nuts will last longer!:D