Shopsmith Forums

billmayo wrote:I have had great success (100%) using AeroKroil from Kana Labs for freeing stuck sheaves. Spray and let soak. Google AeroKroil to find where you can buy a can. I have used more than a case of the spray cans over many years. It is the best penetrating oil I have found and used. There is a great google deal from them if you have a company name to use. I just brought a few more cans for myself.

I used wooden wedges many years ago to separate rotating surfaces without too much damage. Any metal tool used can score, scratch and nick the aluminum sheave vane faces.

Thanks for the suggestion about the penetrating oil, I haven't heard of that brand before, I might have to try it out. Right now the sheaves are soaking in PB blaster for the time being, but I don't think it will help much. It seems like the sheave might be over extended on the shaft or maybe it got too much heat

The thought about using wooden wedges had crossed my mind, I like your thought process . I think I will give that a shot now that I know it can work. The sheave plates have all kinds of weird lines in the casting that make me think something will crack if they see too much force. I guess they aren't doing much now anyway, so it's worth a try.

jere wrote:Thanks for the suggestion about the penetrating oil, I haven't heard of that brand before, I might have to try it out. Right now the sheaves are soaking in PB blaster for the time being, but I don't think it will help much. It seems like the sheave might be over extended on the shaft or maybe it got too much heat

The thought about using wooden wedges had crossed my mind, I like your thought process . I think I will give that a shot now that I know it can work. The sheave plates have all kinds of weird lines in the casting that make me think something will crack if they see too much force. I guess they aren't doing much now anyway, so it's worth a try.

Kano Labs requires a business name, so I usually add "and associates" to my last name. Usually, you can get a buy one, get one deal to start out with a fixed shipping price. They are based out of TN. The main problem is they are expensive and shipping is usually tacked on at Fedex Ground rates. Order once and for the next year you'll get offers from them every month or two for discounted product. Wait for the deals to reorder.

Occasionally, they send a newsletter out - It looks like it is straight from the 50s with corny cartoons jokes, product testimonials and product specials. I can't tell if it is an act or real, but people genuinely like their products. The Bob is the Oil Guy forum crowd really went big over the AeroKroil and Kreen the engine cleaning product.

Update, I got the sheave plates apart with two wedges of wood and a rubber mallet. One piece of wood I put in a vice with sheaves/shaft assembly resting on top. The other piece I held in one hand and hammer in the other. I took quite a few good whacks but nothing broke and the parts came loose. Lots of rust inside the shaft seemed to be the problem.

The replacement arm/part I ordered came and installed fine aside from being off centered when in contact with the shaft. The center of the shaft almost is on the edge of the lever arm. It is in the same spot as on the old arm, is that normal or something off?

My only other question is what is the best way to set the belts/speed dial? I am sure it is on this site somewhere but I keep getting search overload when I use the search box. I am guessing the dial should be all the way fast or all the way slow right?

jere wrote:Thanks for the suggestion about the penetrating oil, I haven't heard of that brand before, I might have to try it out.

I ran across this in another forum recently but have not tried it out. While the testing lacks any rigorous application of the scientific method, I think this not only supports Bill Mayo's recommendation but it also offers a home brew penetrating oil that may well be better.

[INDENT] Penetrating Oils Compared
Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.
Penetrating oil Average load
None ..................... 516 pounds
WD-40 .................. 238 pounds
PB Blaster ..............214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ...... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix... 53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone.
Note: The "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. [/INDENT]

donalexander wrote:I ran across this in another forum recently but have not tried it out. While the testing lacks any rigorous application of the scientific method, I think this not only supports Bill Mayo's recommendation but it also offers a home brew penetrating oil that may well be better.

[INDENT] Penetrating Oils Compared
Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.
Penetrating oil Average load
None ..................... 516 pounds
WD-40 .................. 238 pounds
PB Blaster ..............214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ...... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix... 53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone.
Note: The "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. [/INDENT]

Very interesting, I have a 5 gallon bucket of used ATF that has been waiting for the disposal place to open (it's only open 2 months out of the year ). I also have some acetone left over from a painting project. I will have to try that out too. Plenty of rusted cars here along the rust belt to test on too. I usually end up spraying PB then heating the rusted bolt red hot with a propane torch, and then cranking on it with an impact for a while. It works without torquing the heads off the bolts, but it just an incredibly tedious job

donalexander wrote:I ran across this in another forum recently but have not tried it out. While the testing lacks any rigorous application of the scientific method, I think this not only supports Bill Mayo's recommendation but it also offers a home brew penetrating oil that may well be better.

[INDENT] Penetrating Oils Compared
Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.
Penetrating oil Average load
None ..................... 516 pounds
WD-40 .................. 238 pounds
PB Blaster ..............214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ...... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix... 53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone.
Note: The "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. [/INDENT]

I used the Home Brew for many years but had the following problems. I found I had to mix a small amount each time I needed it. I was never able to find a bottle or container that would prevent the Home Brew from evaporating or something happen that would stop its results. Plus I found it stained my fingers and hand each time and the smell was not nice. Kroil was quick and easy to use each time with no side effects. I would guess I have used Kroil for more than 20 years now. I believe a can could last most people for years.