If you ahve a GE motor the wires from the on/off switch to the motor may look like this. If they do they must be replaced.
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Bill V
Motor bearing replacement tutorial?
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The wires are in surprisingly good shape; there don't appear to be any bare areas, and the insulation seems to be flexible. That said, they are 50+ years old and should probably be replaced.wa2crk wrote:If you ahve a GE motor the wires from the on/off switch to the motor may look like this. If they do they must be replaced.
Bill V
Can I cut them off an inch or two away from the windings, splice in some new wires (with solder), and then cover the joints with heat shrink? I really don't want to try unwrapping the wires at the windings and replacing the entire thing. I'm always up for trying new and difficult things, but I think that's beyond my skill set and will not end well.
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donalexander
- Gold Member
- Posts: 100
- Joined: Thu Apr 19, 2012 3:46 pm
If the insulation is in good shape and flexible, I wouldn't replace the wire based on age alone. Consider it a condition inspection and you've found the part to be in good condition. Adding heat shrink for added support though, while not necessary, probably will both assure you of sound insulation and add some physical support to the system. Heat and vibration are the two things I'd be considering here and neither of them look to be a problem.
Don
Mark V (bought new, now sold), Model 520 (1989 510 upgraded)
Bandsaw, Jointer, and Planer
1951 Magna Engineering 10ER (restored for lathe use and sold)
Mark V (bought new, now sold), Model 520 (1989 510 upgraded)
Bandsaw, Jointer, and Planer
1951 Magna Engineering 10ER (restored for lathe use and sold)
Fair enough.donalexander wrote:If the insulation is in good shape and flexible, I wouldn't replace the wire based on age alone. Consider it a condition inspection and you've found the part to be in good condition. Adding heat shrink for added support though, while not necessary, probably will both assure you of sound insulation and add some physical support to the system. Heat and vibration are the two things I'd be considering here and neither of them look to be a problem.
I believe I can get 36" long sections of heat shrink from a nearby electronics store. I'll have to remove the crimped-on spade connectors, and that'll give me the opportunity to replace them with shielded versions.
Yeah, that's what I'll call it, an opportunity...
Time to dig out the soldering tools.
Connecting the ground wire
The current cord has a ground wire available, but it was not attached to anything.
Can someone tell me where I should connect this wire? I've looked at a few resources and can make an educated guess; I'd just like to hear from someone who knows and doesn't have to guess.
I can post photos of the motor this evening if it will help.
Can someone tell me where I should connect this wire? I've looked at a few resources and can make an educated guess; I'd just like to hear from someone who knows and doesn't have to guess.
I can post photos of the motor this evening if it will help.
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dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21530
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
[quote="Cavediver"]The current cord has a ground wire available, but it was not attached to anything.
Can someone tell me where I should connect this wire? I've looked at a few resources and can make an educated guess]
I'm not guessing but that does not mean that what I am going to tell you is the only right place.
Attach it to a bolt or screw that goes into the motor housing. I do not recommend the long bolts that go through the end caps of the motor nor do I recommend the two screws that secure the inspection plate.
Can someone tell me where I should connect this wire? I've looked at a few resources and can make an educated guess]
I'm not guessing but that does not mean that what I am going to tell you is the only right place.
Attach it to a bolt or screw that goes into the motor housing. I do not recommend the long bolts that go through the end caps of the motor nor do I recommend the two screws that secure the inspection plate.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Success!
I hesitant to buy the HF puller set that everyone seems to like so much. Another $40 into this project is not where I wanted to go*. However, I've got to say that it made things really, really easy. Not only did it do a great job pulling bearings, I was able to use it as a makeshift jackshaft (?) for removing the rear endbell. That thing was seriously stuck!
I was also able to use it as a press to aid installation of the new bearings (thanks JPG40504).
Re-assembly was easy, and the motor runs smoothly.
One final question: How much runout is normal or tolerable at the end of the motor shaft? I can feel a bit by placing my fingernail on the shaft while it's running, but have not measured it yet. (I need a new magnetic base for my indicator).
*Among other things, this is a lesson re-learned. Get the correct tools for the job. It makes life so much easier and less frustrating. Spending the money might suck, but it'll suck less than a poorly rigged attempt at whatever, and the additional delay and part replacement it will cause...
Thanks again to all involved! Now it's on to cleaning and paint prep for the headstock parts.
I hesitant to buy the HF puller set that everyone seems to like so much. Another $40 into this project is not where I wanted to go*. However, I've got to say that it made things really, really easy. Not only did it do a great job pulling bearings, I was able to use it as a makeshift jackshaft (?) for removing the rear endbell. That thing was seriously stuck!
I was also able to use it as a press to aid installation of the new bearings (thanks JPG40504).
Re-assembly was easy, and the motor runs smoothly.
One final question: How much runout is normal or tolerable at the end of the motor shaft? I can feel a bit by placing my fingernail on the shaft while it's running, but have not measured it yet. (I need a new magnetic base for my indicator).
*Among other things, this is a lesson re-learned. Get the correct tools for the job. It makes life so much easier and less frustrating. Spending the money might suck, but it'll suck less than a poorly rigged attempt at whatever, and the additional delay and part replacement it will cause...
Thanks again to all involved! Now it's on to cleaning and paint prep for the headstock parts.