Shopsmith Forums

A secret to longevity is to get the angle at the bottom end cut accurately.

You want all the joints tight as the end comes down and rests firmly on the floor(end matches floor slope). That way there is no flexing under load. Each joint provides an immoble reference for adjacent joints.

Few are so installed by 'builders'!:(


P.S. "BB" store?????

JPG40504 wrote:A secret to longevity is to get the angle at the bottom end cut accurately.

You want all the joints tight as the end comes down and rests firmly on the floor(end matches floor slope). That way there is no flexing under load. Each joint provides an immoble reference for adjacent joints.

Few are so installed by 'builders'!:(


P.S. "BB" store?????

BB store = big box
The tight joint is why I like the all metal ladder I have. It actually locks the joints.

I have a buddy that has an even nicer ladder, it is wider and slides up and down. Almost a stair case when it is down. No folding other than a hand rail as I remember. It sort of slides up and then tilts drawing itself the rest of the way up. Only problem is you have to have a fairly high clearance and you must keep the area in front of the stairs clear up in the attic. A spring on the door and weight of the ladder counter balances the whole thing.

You almost have to install it right under and running in the same direction as the gable.

But with it you walk up the stairs you don't climb a ladder.

Thanks all.. I really appreciate the responses.

You've convinced me..I shall put this on the list of project to purchase and install...

This will likely take much more time, since I'd rather build a project... lol

Thanks again!

Geo