Posted: Mon Sep 16, 2013 11:18 am
billmayo wrote:That should work. Years ago, I split a similar nut at the set screw when testing and the clutch plates and disks were frozen. I disassemble each clutch without testing now. I use a cut off splined end of a bent Gilmer quill shaft with a 1/2" 15mm socket driven on to the splines. I wrap the clutch teeth in a leather belt and tighten in a vise. I look for between 10 to 15 ft. pd. of torque for the slipage. I recondition the plates and disks along with adding an extra plate to the clutch assembly and have washers I put on the side of the spring to get the torque needed. I have extra Gilmer clutch plates and disks along with rebuild clutches available. Email me if interested.
If anyone is willing to cover the shipping cost, I would be happy to mail a cutoff Gilmer spline shaft to them as I still have a few bent ones that is not in the spline area. I have a metal cutting bandsaw so it is not a problem to cut.
That sounds like a much easier method! I found a 5/8 coupling nut and was able to drill that out to fit the shaft.
For those that don't know, a coupling nut is about 4x the length of a regular nut, and is used to join sections of threaded rod. In the big box stores, they're usually found near the threaded rod, and sometimes in the electrical aisle near the uni-strut / conduit sections.
Anyhow, it worked pretty well, though there was a tiny bit of clearance (sounds better than slop...). I made a couple of wood holders, lined them with leather, and clamped the whole thing in my vice to finish the torque testing.