500, 510 or 520?

[claimdude]

Serial Number 271804 is in fact a 1954.

You have 3 table saw upgrade options from the mother ship.
555985 Mark V Model 500 to Model 520 Upgrade ... $1,321.68
555142 Mark V Model 500 to Model 510 Upgrade ... $1,196.89
505875 Model 500 Clear Saw Guard System Upgrade ... $227.83 I have this one, and I'm not happy with it at all. You still have the small table issues/problems (It seems I always need to cut things where the fence just doesn't sit right). Aligning the splitter located at the end of the table is troublesome and has burned many a piece of wood when it creates a jam. This also makes me feel less than safe. The dust collection is not very good and I have to sweep up anyway. Drilling and tapping of table components is required to install. The bolt that holds the upper guard in place has bent numerous times. All in all it's just a hassle and it does not add much to safety. For not much more money you may be able to score the required components for a used 510 upgrade. If purchasing new and you have the dough, go for the 500 to 520 upgrade.

For a difference of $130 between 510 and 520 then the 520 is a must!

Jack

[Ed in Tampa]

I believe it will look strange to Ed also.

I think he meant to say "The 520 has the same table as the 510 but used extruded aluminum fence rails that screwed in the sides of the tables.

The big difference (my opinion)is with the rip fence and how it attaches to the tables.

Corrected my typo
If you are talking engineering or technology you are right the big difference is how they attach. However for visual identification this would be less obvious and did not answer his question as well. Tubular versus extruded aluminum to me would be very obvious and that was the reason I noted it.

[gaftech]

Thanks for everyone's help. I'll be sure and look on craigslist and see what's going on there. Never used it before, so I don't know how it works, but I'm sure I'll be able to figure it out. I mainly wanted to know so I could order an owner's manual. My Dad must have lost it in the 45+ years he owned it because I didn't find it in his estate. I'll probably learn how to use the 500 first then think about upgrading later. I probably won't use the TS as I have a separate TS, so I'll use it for some of the other functions. In all reality, it'll probably be used most as a lathe and jointer, but we'll see how things pan out down the line.

BTW, I also posted that in pic #6075 I know that the white item on the right is for driving attachments (power coupler), but what's the black item on the left and what is it used for? Kind of looks like it would be used for the same thing, i.e., to drive a machine or attachment.

Lastly, I can't seem to get the existing power coupler to attach to anything. Is it normally hard to fit, or do I need to order another one?

Again, thanks for the assist. I really appreciate it, gentlemen!

[donalexander]

If you're not going to use the TS, then there really isn't a major need to upgrade at all, imo. As I recall you've done the PowerPro upgrade so you have the extra horsepower. The lathe doesn't change between the 500, 510, and 520. The jointer is a special purpose tool (SPT) and fits them all, the same way.

As for why the SPT adaptor is difficult to use, I'm not sure. The ends are marked, "headstock" and "SPT" (or 'tool' or something). If you tried it backwards, it might be difficult...but unless the lettering is gone I'm pretty sure you wouldn't make that mistake. The plastic adaptor has raised ridges that match the tool and headstock fittings. Make sure you have the right fittings on the headstock. You should be able to see if the plastic adaptor is damaged.

If none of this solves your problem, a picture is worth a thousand words. The one's you've posted are really too small to be helpful with this problem. You might try reposting a close up of the issue.

[terrydowning]

BTW, I also posted that in pic #6075 I know that the white item on the right is for driving attachments (power coupler), but what's the black item on the left and what is it used for? Kind of looks like it would be used for the same thing, i.e., to drive a machine or attachment.

Again, thanks for the assist. I really appreciate it, gentlemen!

The Black one is the original design power coupler. If the nylon sockets have no cracks or signs of wear it can still be used. My guess is that they are probably cracked.

[billmayo]

The headstock hubs have 4 grooves and the SPT hubs have 5 grooves. No way to mix up what goes where. The SPT hubs have either a 1/2" ID or a 5/8" ID. The headstock hubs are all 5/8" ID. There is a short headstock hub for the idler (lower) shaft and a longer hub for the drive sleeve (upper) shaft which also can be used on the quill shaft for the jig or scroll saw.

[gaftech]

Hi all,

Thanks for the help. While in some ways it has helped, such as identifying parts/mod of machine I have, in other ways it has muddied the waters, such as "should I upgrade to 510 or 520?". So I have been doing my due diligence and reading and learning from other posts throughout this forum. I fear I have but scratched the surface.

But I will persevere as best I can.

Since the previous pictures couldn't be blown up with any clarity, I went out and took some more pictures of the SS I have. (Until I figure out how to imbed them where I want them, you'll have to be satisfied with the attachments.) I also included pictures of a box that Pop had that I previously hadn't gone through. Lo and behold the treasures I found: push blocks, a featherboard, things for the lathe, some type of angle guide I'm not sure where it goes, a box of SS lathe chisels, etc. If anyone can clue me in on these things, it would be a great help!

I also found a Stanley 110 Block plane still in its original box! Used, of course, but still a good tool.

I have the good fortune of being able to attend a SS demo tomorrow morning at a "local" Lowes store. Any thoughts on the questions I should be asking? I already have an idea, but was just wondering...

I'll wrap this up by saying that the SS community, and the woodworking community at large, are some of the kindest and most giving people on the planet...and for that, I humbly thank you.

[gaftech]

OK, I forgot you can only upload 5 attachments at a time, so here are the rest of the pics.

[terrydowning]

Thanks for the full size pics. You're off to a great start.

A Stanley 110 is a great block plane and that one will be a beauty and a joy to use when cleaned up and fettled. An afternoon with some 220 grit to flatten and clean the sole, and then sharpen the blade. Clean off all the dust and dirt. Good to go. A good sharp block plane is an essential woodworking tool IMHO.

[allsas]

A shopmade sliding Table will avoid some of the small table complaints. One with an open left side permits use for angle cuts and miter cuts on long pieces (with 1/4" thick fence backed Triangles), A shopmade sliding table should include a guard over the blade and a guard for the blade as it is moved past the fence. A long guard over the blade helps.