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Posted: Thu Mar 28, 2013 9:39 am
by dgale
Thanks - much ore clear now - I was confused with how the depth stop setting relates to the wheel setting and also how you bypass the depth stop when not using it but now perfectly clear - I appreciate it!
Posted: Thu Mar 28, 2013 2:41 pm
by keakap
[quote="algale"]....... Now remove your stock, turn on machine and make you fist pass though the machine]
Was this the inspiration for using red text?
;-)
Posted: Thu Mar 28, 2013 3:37 pm
by algale
[quote="keakap"]Was this the inspiration for using red text?
]
Took a while, but I get it! Yeah the "r" on my keyboard is acting up. Takes multiple pushes to get it to register.
Posted: Thu Mar 28, 2013 3:48 pm
by keakap
algale wrote:Took a while, but I get it! Yeah the "r" on my keyboard is acting up. Takes multiple pushes to get it to register.
That aint so bad- I had a keyboard once that substituted "F" when the key next to it "T" was hit. Usually not a big thing, but got hairy when I wrote to relatives in Kentucky...
Posted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 2:04 am
by charlese
dgale wrote:That helps but I'm still confused - when you say turn the depth stop to the desired finished thickness, it has a range of 1/8" to 1-1/4". Are you setting the max desired cut or the finished thickness? Lets say I have a piece of 5/4 (1-1/4") stock and I want to plane it to a finished thickness of 7/8" - how would you set up the two depth controls? What about if I have a piece of 5" thick stock and I want to plane off 1/2"? Just random examples but I'm trying to understand how you set the wheel and depth stop in such scenarios.
Thanks for your help - I feel pretty dense that this isn't more intuitive but I'm confused
Rather than answering your questions directly let me give you what I did today to get perfect 3/4 stock. - Bought some 4/4 oak that was surfaced two sides. The boards, as purchased, actually measured 27/32" after getting to equilibrium moisture content. I wanted to get rid of the planer ridges on both sides of the boards, so I set the stop at 3/4", ran the planer down to the stop. Then turned the lift 1/2 turn up (or 1/32"), ran the board through, then ran the planer down 1/4 turn and ran the other side of the board. Checked for any irregularities and ran the best side through again after turning down to the 3/4" stop. (Another 1/4 turn on the handle) The final cut removed 1/64".
This procedure gave me good looking boards with no snipe.