JPW vs Turtle/Carnuba/Mothers

fiatben · Post by **fiatben** » Fri Mar 29, 2013 10:25 am

I don't know how much the stuff is in your area, but my local home store has JPW for $5 a can. Even I can afford to use it liberally at that price.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Fri Mar 29, 2013 10:48 am

fiatben wrote:I don't know how much the stuff is in your area, but my local home store has JPW for $5 a can. Even I can afford to use it liberally at that price.

I don't know because I have never had any other kind but it has been reported here that only the Original Formula of JPW should be used.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Mar 29, 2013 1:48 pm

dusty wrote:I don't know because I have never had any other kind but it has been reported here that only the Original Formula of JPW should be used.

Original Formula is 'slippery'. Good for us:), not good in a floor wax:(.(unless you like to skate in your socks!:D)

pieceseeker · Post by **pieceseeker** » Fri Mar 29, 2013 6:32 pm

dusty wrote:It has been my experience that if you wax the painted parts of your Mark V they become dust magnets. To see what I meant, wax just one leg of your Mark V and shine it up real nice.

Now that this is done - work in the shop for about a month - normal routine.

Pay attention to the dust that collects on the legs of your Mark V.

Oh I don't know, I'm of the sort that likes to wipe a machine down every few times I use it anyway. I'm sure I'll figure it out though.

What was that word Nick always used when describing corrosion or general gunk......."accupunky" is that correct?

pieceseeker · Post by **pieceseeker** » Fri Mar 29, 2013 6:34 pm

Cavediver wrote:In addition to JPW, I've started using paraffin wax dissolved in mineral spirits. During restorations, I dip smaller, odd shaped parts in the jar and then let them dry. The mineral spirits will evaporate, leaving a protective coating of wax on the entire part. It's no better than the paste wax, but it's a lot easier to apply in certain cases.

Could you share that formula with us?

rpd · Post by **rpd** » Fri Mar 29, 2013 8:41 pm

pieceseeker wrote:
What was that word Nick always used when describing corrosion or general gunk......."accupunky" is that correct?

I believe it is Akempucky. If I remember correctly he said in one of the videos that it was used like putty to cover the setscrew that retains the quill.
I think he likes the way it sounds because as you mention he also uses the term to refer to any build up of crud.

pieceseeker · Post by **pieceseeker** » Fri Mar 29, 2013 9:09 pm

Looks like you are correct sir! Had never heard of it before this.

An Akempucky 0.3 oz. tube will lubricate about 100 screws.

Ackempucky Stops Screw Breakage

This Secret of the Masters reduces the friction between the screw and the wood... and that means less heat build-up, less breakage and less time wasted removing and repairing broken screws!

Akempucky Saves Cordless Tool Batteries

It just stands to reason... less friction also reduces the strain on all your screwdriving tools. That means longer life for your cordless tool batteries...and your arm, too!

Akempucky Prevents Unsightly Oil Drips

Oil may be a great lubricant for stopping squeaky hinge pins or door latches -- but not when it drips down the edges of the door or the jamb. Akempucky is a solid, rub-on product... and that means no dripping!

algale · Post by **algale** » Fri Mar 29, 2013 9:50 pm

JPG40504 wrote:Original Formula is 'slippery'. Good for us:), not good in a floor wax:(.(unless you like to skate in your socks!:D)

Didn't know they made an un-original formula. Went and checked the tin I bought at the local big box store last month and it does say "Original Formula" on it. I guess I won't walk on my Shopsmith in my socks....

Cavediver · Post by **Cavediver** » Sat Mar 30, 2013 9:57 am

pieceseeker wrote:Could you share that formula with us?

There was no official formula, more like guidelines...
I used a cheese grater to shave a lump of Gulf canning wax into a pile. I filled an old sauce jar about half or two thirds full with mineral spirits, and then started adding the wax a bit at a time. It takes a little while to dissolve, so I'd drop the wax in, cap it, and leave it for an hour or so before adding some more. Eventually you'll reach the saturation point, and you're done! IMO, start with a smaller jar than I did, say an old pickle jar or something like that.

Also, I used a pan of hot water to warm the mineral spirits and speed the process. I wound up with a solution that's over-saturated at room temperature. That means I have to heat it up when I need it. That's not a big deal to me, but I wish I'd have been a bit more patient. What you should wind up with is a solution that's clear or slightly hazy at room temp, and will (probably) get cloudy when cold.

beeg · Post by **beeg** » Tue Apr 02, 2013 1:12 pm

Cavediver wrote: I wound up with a solution that's over-saturated at room temperature. That means I have to heat it up when I need it.

Add one ounce of mineral spirits, till ya get the consistency ya want.

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JPW vs Turtle/Carnuba/Mothers

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