Posted: Wed Apr 17, 2013 8:59 am
Gene, I am a member of the Midwest Tool Collectors and they publish some standards on what and what not to do with old tools.
Basically it is appropriate to remove all rust and crud and replace broken or missing parts if a replacement part can be found that fits the type. If it is re-painted, re-chromed or fitted with parts not fitting it's type (the production run before the manufacturer makes design changes), it lessens the value to a collector.
Herbert Kean, in his book: Restoring Antique Tools writes about bevels, "When the blade shows some evidence of the original bluing I'd leave it alone, unless there are some bad rust spots here and there. I would opt for an emery and steelwool job if that were the case" (p. 85) He also doesn't recommend a wire wheel on blades because it gives a crosshatch effect. Emery in finer grades and finish with steelwool.
With a little research you should be able to discover what the value of the Marshall/Wells is. Off hand, I don't know; it could be a rare example. Bottom line, if you want it to look like new, it's your tool. If you want to value its antique status, restoration is best that does not try to make it look new.
Basically it is appropriate to remove all rust and crud and replace broken or missing parts if a replacement part can be found that fits the type. If it is re-painted, re-chromed or fitted with parts not fitting it's type (the production run before the manufacturer makes design changes), it lessens the value to a collector.
Herbert Kean, in his book: Restoring Antique Tools writes about bevels, "When the blade shows some evidence of the original bluing I'd leave it alone, unless there are some bad rust spots here and there. I would opt for an emery and steelwool job if that were the case" (p. 85) He also doesn't recommend a wire wheel on blades because it gives a crosshatch effect. Emery in finer grades and finish with steelwool.
With a little research you should be able to discover what the value of the Marshall/Wells is. Off hand, I don't know; it could be a rare example. Bottom line, if you want it to look like new, it's your tool. If you want to value its antique status, restoration is best that does not try to make it look new.