Posted: Thu May 09, 2013 6:18 pm
I wood think that a valve spring compressor, woodn't be large enough for this spring. You might want to look at this PDF.
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510 needs help
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Posted: Thu May 09, 2013 6:59 pm
I find I need at least a 30" X 3/4" X 4" wide board that I drill a 1 1/8" hole half way through the center of the board, then finish the hole with a 3/4" drill bit. This allows the board to fit over the washer or nut and you can get to the snap ring much better to remove and install it. I am able to hold the longer board down with one arm and hand. This prevents the board from slipping off the end. If a nut is used, then I turn the motor sheaves to unscrew the nut and reverse to install while holding the spring compressed.
Posted: Thu May 09, 2013 11:31 pm
There have been three versions that I have encountered. The oldest is the threaded/nut. Next is the cup, and finally the washer.
The washer version truly needs a compressor like Bill described. I have made one that I slip under the headstock web. Then rotating it to more securely be captured by the web. Then press down on the other(longer) end.
FWIW with the cup, I am able to push/hold it by one hand. Yes it is dicey!:rolleyes:
The washer version truly needs a compressor like Bill described. I have made one that I slip under the headstock web. Then rotating it to more securely be captured by the web. Then press down on the other(longer) end.
FWIW with the cup, I am able to push/hold it by one hand. Yes it is dicey!:rolleyes:
Posted: Fri May 10, 2013 1:27 am
I may be a little fuzzy headed today, but am having trouble visualizing the suggested spring compression ideas and the variations being described.
Generally, I think the ideas revolve around putting the spring on a dowel and having a board with a centered hole that can slide down the dowel compressing the spring over the shaft/sheave base exposing enough of the shaft to put on the retaining ring. That was pretty much what I got from the beeg's PDF link after reading a couple of times.
I'll have a friend help me with the dowel and stick approach. The end of the shaft has a dimple so I will put a finishing nail in the end of the dowel to help hold it on the shaft.
If this does not get the thing back together, I may have to take a smart pill and re-look at the suggestions. Thanks for the help.
Generally, I think the ideas revolve around putting the spring on a dowel and having a board with a centered hole that can slide down the dowel compressing the spring over the shaft/sheave base exposing enough of the shaft to put on the retaining ring. That was pretty much what I got from the beeg's PDF link after reading a couple of times.
I'll have a friend help me with the dowel and stick approach. The end of the shaft has a dimple so I will put a finishing nail in the end of the dowel to help hold it on the shaft.
If this does not get the thing back together, I may have to take a smart pill and re-look at the suggestions. Thanks for the help.
Posted: Fri May 10, 2013 8:39 am
Posted: Fri May 10, 2013 10:54 am
Watch Hands Online #22 , Nick shows how the board to compress the spring and remove/replace the spring clip starting about the 8 minute mark.
Posted: Fri May 10, 2013 12:13 pm
joshh wrote:This may help, maybe not...but maybe so
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?p=144287&postcount=3
Sheesh! A lot of verbage with no details of the most important activity(removing the spring retainer etc.).
And that 20" dowel - for WHAT?
At 8:30+ removal takes place.
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... rn_Pt3.htm
Reverse actions to get er back on. See previous comments re safety etc.
All Done
Posted: Fri May 10, 2013 4:15 pm
So, we got it all done! But not without the spring getting loose once...a safety tip - don't work directly under florescent bulbs:eek: 
We did not break them, but it was a near thing:D
Speed changes work fine now:)
Thanks for the help. I used 5/8" dowel a little longer than the spring. I took about 3/16"-1/4" off the midsection of 24" 1x scrap where the hole was drilled. Tried 3/4" hole had to enlarge to 1" so the board would clear the snap ring.
Thanks again
We did not break them, but it was a near thing:D
Speed changes work fine now:)
Thanks for the help. I used 5/8" dowel a little longer than the spring. I took about 3/16"-1/4" off the midsection of 24" 1x scrap where the hole was drilled. Tried 3/4" hole had to enlarge to 1" so the board would clear the snap ring.
Thanks again