Shopsmith Forums

The green was (and is) connected to the body of the motor.
The plug is usually only used by my washing machine and has its own breaker (non gfi). I unplug the washer when I use that plug for the SS.
I have used this same plug for my SS for a long time with no problems before.
The wire away from the bad splice looks fine. I just put new clips on the clean wire, connected it as it was before, and plugged it in.

The green was (and is) connected to the body of the motor.
The plug is usually only used by my washing machine and has its own breaker (non gfi). I unplug the washer when I use that plug for the SS.
I have used this same plug for my SS for a long time with no problems before.
The wire away from the bad splice looks fine. I just put new clips on the clean wire, connected it as it was before, and plugged it in.

The green was (and is) connected to the body of the motor.
The plug is usually only used by my washing machine and has its own breaker (non gfi). I unplug the washer when I use that plug for the SS.
I have used this same plug for my SS for a long time with no problems before.
The wire away from the bad splice looks fine. I just put new clips on the clean wire, connected it as it was before, and plugged it in.

The mystery piece is indeed the plate that was on the lock. The lock prevented unintentional switching fwd to rev too quickly as well as a lockout.

Do I understand correctly that you still have the 'original' power switch?

With the 'interlock' missing, you must be diligent and not actuate the power switch for direction changes too rapidly. The need to press stop first will help to remind you. The reason for the lock was to prevent one from changing direction while the motor is still turning. If the start switch is still 'open', the motor will continue to run in what ever direction it was initially. The switch only alters the start circuit for direction changes which will be inactive if the motor is still coasting down.

It is a bit of a mystery why it would be tripping the breaker and the motor not getting hot. When running, is there hot air being blown out of the motor? Can you hear the start switch mechanism toggling off/on as the motor starts/stops?

With the motor reassembled, there is not much to check with a vom, but a couple of resistance checks may provide clues. I say 'may' because the resistance measured across the power cord will be extremely low normally(fractional ohm). However any reading between the power in wires and the frame should be extremely high. Megohms.

It is possible that a slight temperature rise is causing something to 'move' and create a sudden increase in current through the breaker. It may be evident in a change in resistance to frame when it is still 'warm' after tripping the breaker.

I think considering the 'alterations' that a PO performed that we cannot assume everything is normal anywhere.

I think a visual inspection of the start switch and circuit and windings is the next step. Repeated tripping of the breaker will not do either motor or the breaker anything of 'benefit' to either.

Good pix are going to be critical here. They hopefully will provide new info.

As it is, tis still a puzzlement!

An indicator would be to determine what the running current is and see if it varies. A vom is not the tool for that unless it has a 20A ac range(not likely). A clamp on current meter would be de tool for that.

Lastly a molder should not be run above 4000 rpm. If actually shaping, belay that!

We got the green wire message (3X).

FWIW you can delete two of them. Where asked for a reason enter 'duplicate'. You must click on delete two places. A normal 'edit' of the message will get you to the correct screen.

We got the green wire message (3X).

FWIW you can delete two of them. A normal 'edit' of the message will get you to the correct screen. You must click on delete, select delete on the pop in window, where asked for a reason enter 'duplicate' finally, click on delete 'message'.

Gotta do that for each post.

We got the green wire message (3X).

FWIW you can delete two of them. A normal 'edit' of the message will get you to the correct screen. You must click on delete, select delete on the pop in window, where asked for a reason enter 'duplicate' finally, click on 'delete this message'.

Yes, I still have the original three button starter switch. I was running the molder at about 4800. That should not be the problem, would it?

Will be tearing into it again later today and will get pictures of everything. Looking for a motor guru to check the winding etc.

Took the motor out again. Nobody in my town works on electric motors and the closest is a 2 hour drive away. Not sure what if anything I can do myself. I could test with a VO meter if someone could help me through it, but I know very little how to use it. Even how to set the meter is a mystery to me. Maybe the pictures would help?

Do you know how to 'zero' adjust the lowest ohms range?

This is critical since we will be measuring very low resistance windings.

make note of the following:

5 yellow and jumper
2 white with black tracer
5 jumper
L1 black power cord
L2 white power cord.



T9 white with red tracer
T5 red
L1 black
L2 white


These correspond to the power switch terminals and the motor leads that attach to it.

The top 5 are the 5 on top in your pix.

The lower 4 are the 4 on the bottom in your pix.

[ATTACH]21635[/ATTACH]

Get comfortable with understanding that.

Please refer to the power switch as such.

The 'start' switch is inside the motor.

BTW the lamp appears burned out - you need a clear S6 lamp.