I Box first use with the MKV

Gene Howe · Post by **Gene Howe** » Fri May 31, 2013 8:03 am

Steve,
Don't see why it wouldn't work on the ER.
As long as the table (saw or router table) has a miter slot on the left of the blade, it should work.
Go for it.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Fri May 31, 2013 8:20 am

Gene Howe wrote:Steve,
Don't see why it wouldn't work on the ER.
As long as the table (saw or router table) has a miter slot on the left of the blade, it should work.
Go for it.

Gene, please enlighten me. The Incra documentation seems to imply that the I-Box can be used on either side of the blade. Am I wrong when I then conclude that the miter slot location can be either left or right of the blade?

Gene Howe · Post by **Gene Howe** » Fri May 31, 2013 10:52 am

That's true, Dusty. However, when setting it up for the first time, you want the metal fingers that space the cut and define the width to reflect the changes made in the dado width. So, setting the I Box on the left brings the fingers in from the left to "kiss" the left blade of the dado set. The blade on the hub side of the dado set (right side) never changes position...only when the width is changed does the "inside" or, left side, change. That's where you would want the space/width adjusting fingers to be in order to reflect the width changes.
That was the "Senior moment" that caused me to call Tech Support. But, Mark explained that setting it on the left on a Shopsmith is optional because the table and the blades can be moved It just makes the set ups a bit easier when changing widths or spacing. I can absolute verify that!

It actually makes no difference in the operation.

Gene Howe · Post by **Gene Howe** » Fri May 31, 2013 12:32 pm

Just received an email from Mark @ Incra regarding cutting more than one piece at a time.
Here it is.

Hi, Gene-

Stacking & clamping a pair of box sides to gang-cut them is fine, and I think it's shown on one of the videos (maybe the promotional video…don't remember). It requires a lot of consistency and a good feel for the boards' alignment on the jig (like not getting dust trapped under the boards, etc), so I would spend some time working with single pieces to get acquainted first.

Best regards,

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri May 31, 2013 12:57 pm

Gene Howe wrote:That's true, Dusty. However, when setting it up for the first time, you want the metal fingers that space the cut and define the width to reflect the changes made in the dado width. So, setting the I Box on the left brings the fingers in from the left to "kiss" the left blade of the dado set. The blade on the hub side of the dado set (right side) never changes position...only when the width is changed does the "inside" or, left side, change. That's where you would want the space/width adjusting fingers to be in order to reflect the width changes.
That was the "Senior moment" that caused me to call Tech Support. But, Mark explained that setting it on the left on a Shopsmith is optional because the table and the blades can be moved It just makes the set ups a bit easier when changing widths or spacing. I can absolute verify that! It actually makes no difference in the operation.

Now I'se cornfuzed!

Please straighten me out.

By setting the I box with the 'fingers' approaching the blade from the 'left'(the headstock side of the 'blade'), the quill can be adjusted to 'kiss' the left edge of the blade instead of the I box knob(this keeps the width/spacing setting unaltered on the I box). Underlined part a conclusion on my part.

The 'hub' side of the blade arbor is the right side and does not change with blade width changes????????

The inside/left side changes with blade width changes?????

I think a possible reason for my sight problem is you and I are not always considering blade/fingers/left/right/inside/hub the same things.

I am considering 'left'/'right' as to the left or right of the operator when standing on the power switch side of the SS.

My arbor has the hub side of the blade to the left or towards the headstock. The left edge of the blade is fixed relative to the arbor. Its location relative to the miter slot is only altered by quill or table movement.

My arbor has a nut on the right side and when changing blade widths the nut is removed and the blade width changes move the blade right edge in/out for narrower/wider blade width settings.

Is it possible you are referring to the I box fingers being left/right and inside being in towards the I box?

As I 'think' I understand it:

The 'finger' away from the headstock is first 'zeroed' to align with the left edge of the blade.

After a 'test' cut is made, the test piece is positioned over the fingers and the finger spacing is adjusted to match the cut just made.

If one always mounts the I box in the miter gauge slot nearest the headstock and positions the quill and table in the same location relative to the headstock, the zero adjustment may not need to be readjusted(maybe! but close!!!)

If the blade width has not been changed, the finger width may also not require readjusting.

I can see that having the zero adjustment on the side of the blade that does not move with blade width changes minimizes the need to make that adjustment. On the shopsmith that is the blade hub(left) side towards the headstock. The shopsmith can make that zero adjustment independent of the I box adjuster by positioning either the table or the quill.

Is it possible when you referenced the hub/right/left/inside('bolded' words above) you were referring to the I box fingers, not the dado blade??????

One more ? Does the lock knob secure both of the fingers, or does it only need to be secured after blade 'kissing'?

heathicus · Post by **heathicus** » Fri May 31, 2013 1:43 pm

I found this video to be pretty informative and it answered a lot of my questions: http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... _video.htm

Now I want one!!

Gene Howe · Post by **Gene Howe** » Fri May 31, 2013 2:11 pm

Sorry 'bout my poor verbal/written description.

JPG40504 wrote:Now I'se cornfuzed!

Please straighten me out.

By setting the I box with the 'fingers' approaching the blade from the 'left'(the headstock side of the 'blade'), the quill can be adjusted to 'kiss' the left edge of the blade instead of the I box knob(this keeps the width/spacing setting unaltered on the I box). Underlined part a conclusion on my part.
I believe you are correct. But, "knob" ?

The 'hub' side of the blade arbor is the right side and does not change with blade width changes????????

I call the right end of the arbor the hub. That blade's position never changes when the dado width is changed.
Now I see the confuzion. My mistake. You are correct. Another senior moment.

The inside/left side changes with blade width changes?????
See above

I think a possible reason for my sight problem is you and I are not always considering blade/fingers/left/right/inside/hub the same things.

I am considering 'left'/'right' as to the left or right of the operator when standing on the power switch side of the SS. headstock.
Me too.

The left edge of the blade is fixed relative to the arbor. Its location relative to the miter slot is only altered by quill or table movement.
Or by altering the dado width.

My arbor has a nut on the right side and when changing blade widths the nut is removed and the blade width changes move the blade right edge in/out for narrower/wider blade width settings.
Mine, too. See above.

Is it possible you are referring to the I box fingers being left/right and inside being in towards the I box?
Fingers are on the left as viewed from the operator side or on/off switch side.

As I 'think' I understand it:

The 'finger' away from the headstock is first 'zeroed' to align with the left edge of the blade.
Actually, the fingers are zeroed, that is, they are together when you align with the left blade. But, it is true that it is the finger away from the headstock that "kisses".

After a 'test' cut is made, the test piece is positioned over the fingers and the finger spacing is adjusted to match the cut just made.
Yep.

If one always mounts the I box in the miter gauge slot nearest the headstock and positions the quill and table in the same location relative to the headstock, the zero adjustment may not need to be readjusted(maybe! but close!!!) That's it! You said it better than I did.

If the blade width has not been changed, the finger width may also not require readjusting.
True. If the table or head stock has been moved, either or both can be moved to the zero position first acquired during initial set up by placing the I Box in the left track and adjusting the table/head stock/quill to "kiss" the closed fingers with the left blade. No need to change any other setting on the I Box.
If the I Box setting has not been changed (from i.e. 1/2"), once you adjust the table/head stock/quill to "kiss" the left blade, you are all set for more of the same cuts.

I can see that having the zero adjustment on the side of the blade that does not move with blade width changes minimizes the need to make that adjustment. On the shopsmith that is the blade hub(left) side towards the headstock. The shopsmith can make that zero adjustment independent of the I box adjuster by positioning either the table or the quill.
True, and that's what complicated my explanations. You should have been there when I was setting it up.

Is it possible when you referenced the hub/right/left/inside('bolded' words above) you were referring to the I box fingers, not the dado blade??????
No. We're on the same wave length there. Fingers are on the left of the I Box blade opening. So, adjustments are made relative to the left dado blade. (closest to the head stock)

One more ? Does the lock knob secure both of the fingers, or does it only need to be secured after blade 'kissing'?

The lock knob (on the top of the I Box) is loosened for every finger adjustment (after initial set up) and tightened after adjustments are made with the two knobs on the end of the I Box fence. (left end). The lock knob secures both fingers.

Have I cleared anything up? I know my directions are not the best.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri May 31, 2013 2:27 pm

Gene Howe wrote:Sorry 'bout my poor verbal/written description.

The lock knob (on the top of the I Box) is loosened for every finger adjustment (after initial set up) and tightened after adjustments are made with the two knobs on the end of the I Box fence. (left end). The lock knob secures both fingers.

Have I cleared anything up? I know my directions are not the best.

You have destroyed the cornfuzun.

I was thinking left/right fingers aka inside/outside finger rather that their location to the blade.

Thank You for the answers. I hate being cornfuzed!:D