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Posted: Mon Jun 10, 2013 5:47 pm
by dgale
reible wrote:Hi,
I don't have one of those planers so I'm not sure what kind of weight is involved but I do guess you have a fair amount of $$ tied up.
From the picture it looks like you have some pocket screws (3/side) into 1/2" material, perhaps some glue was added but to be honest I'd be worried that if you are rolling along and hit something on the floor the whole box is going to collapse putting the big $$ item in peril.
Also remember that the wood being planned will add weight plus there will be vibrations, farther stresses on stand.
I'd say keep the stand as is with a little reinforcement for some thing lighter (tool) or stoage, then either buy a metal stand (doesn't need to be dewalt) or make another version out of 3/4" plywood. If you want to use pocket screws again that is fine but you need a lot more of them. You will also want a face frame on/in the front opening.
My planner is mounted on a metal stand and is very stable, cost was about $80 (with locking casters) some years back. I don't recall where I got it but if you look up tool stands you will find a lot to pick from.
This would be your starting point
http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW7350-Pla ... uctDetails
Anyway that is my opinion.....
Ed
This is definitely a heavy planer, at least in the realm of supposedly being portable - it weighs 92lbs. I agree that I'd probably repurpose your stand for another use and start over, as not only is the planer heavy put you can be applying a fair amount of lateral force when you're using it and I'd hate to see the stand break apart and dump your running planer on the ground. I'm not particularly game for spending any additional $$ right now but given that I have a zillion tasks on my to-do list to get my new shop up and running, I have been pondering the Dewalt stand for this planer despite it's $150 price tag:
Dewalt DW7350 Planer Stand
Nothing particularly fancy about this stand that merits the price, other than convenience in my case....certainly could be built out of 3/4" ply for cheaper. I also need to order the infeed and outfeed tables, as these reportedly all but eliminate snipe with this planer.
Flip Planer/Miter Stand
Posted: Mon Jun 10, 2013 10:10 pm
by berry
You might try re-enforcing the the base with angle iron? But I think I'd start over.
Here's the unit I made several years ago. I used 2 - 3/4" PW with hardwood sandwiched between the pw layers.
[ATTACH]21818[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]21819[/ATTACH]
Posted: Mon Jun 10, 2013 10:41 pm
by benush26
As I was reading this my thoughts were to also use angle iron. Using a router you could make horizontal and vertical openings on each side and slip angle iron pieces in for support similar to using an I-beam under the foundation of a house. $8 in angle iron sounds much cheaper than $150 for a stand.
I've also found stands for table saws on CL for <$20 that would hold the load and probably fairly easy to adapt.
Just my 2 cents.
Posted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 12:22 am
by heathicus
berry wrote:You might try re-enforcing the the base with angle iron? But I think I'd start over.
Here's the unit I made several years ago. I used 2 - 3/4" PW with hardwood sandwiched between the pw layers.
[ATTACH]21818[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]21819[/ATTACH]
That's the stand I just bought the material to build. How do you like it? Anything you would change or improve?
another flip top stand
Posted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 8:27 am
by oldc6
Posted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 10:11 am
by berry
heathicus wrote:That's the stand I just bought the material to build. How do you like it? Anything you would change or improve?
My recollection is that I combined plans from
Wood and
Woodsmith magazines. It works really well for me. It's pretty easy to flip and move around the shop. I've never been sorry I built it.
You can't see it from the pic but the base is open on the far side allowing some storage and I store some items on the outside of the case now too.
If you're in a small shop this is worth making. I don't think I'd do anything different if I were starting the project over today.
Posted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 10:29 am
by heathicus
berry wrote:My recollection is that I combined plans from Wood and Woodsmith magazines. It works really well for me. It's pretty easy to flip and move around the shop. I've never been sorry I built it.
You can't see it from the pic but the base is open on the far side allowing some storage and I store some items on the outside of the case now too.
If you're in a small shop this is worth making. I don't think I'd do anything different if I were starting the project over today.
Would you see any problems with turning the planer 90 degrees from how you have it? I was thinking about making some support arms that would be outboard supports for both the miter saw and the planer. Something along these lines, combined with the flip top:
Posted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 11:33 am
by berry
heathicus wrote:Would you see any problems with turning the planer 90 degrees from how you have it? I was thinking about making some support arms that would be outboard supports for both the miter saw and the planer. Something along these lines, combined with the flip top:
No I don't see any issues with turning the planer 90 degrees.
Still Undecided
Posted: Thu Jun 13, 2013 8:35 pm
by algale
With the 92 pound DW735 planer sitting atop the stand for the last several days, I measured the sag at the center of the front edge of the top as 0.019 inches. I measured the sag by placing a straight edge across the sides and inserting a feeler gauge in into the gap in the center.
This was actually very close to what the "Sagulator" suggested it would be. For those not familiar, the Sagulator is an on-line program that purports to calculate how much sag you will get in a beam or shelf based on the materials used, their dimensions, and the load. Here's the site:
http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator.htm Based on my dimensions, material and load, the Sagulator calculated the sag would be 0.02 inches.
As an experiment I tried JPG's suggestion of laying some temporary fir strips left over from another project across the top (left to right) which were long enough to over hang the sides. What I had on hand measured about 1.22 x 1.50 so they were a little lighter weight than what JPG suggested (2x?). With the strips in place, I measured no change in the sag between the bottom of the front strip and the center of the top, which is a very counter intuitive result.
I am still undecided whether to convert this stand into storage (as Ed has suggested) or keep it as a planer stand. I have run a few boards through it, the largest being a six foot length of fir 2 x 10, and the stand seems sturdy in spite of its relatively light-weight construction. When I lock down the casters and put boards through the planer there is no observable wracking or wobbling of the stand. Nor does the stand wrack or wobble when I roll it over the shop floor with the planer sitting on top (although I haven't run the stand over or into any obstacles, which I think is what Ed feared). Maybe I'll put a similar weight (couple bags of sand) on top of the stand and push it across over the threshold between the finished and unfinished parts of the basement and see what happens.
Decisions, decisions.
Al
Posted: Thu Jun 13, 2013 10:22 pm
by JPG
JPG also said to place them front to back(no gaps between them).
I be curious what the sag measured with the planer removed(i.e. has the top taken a semi-permanent sag?)
JPG does not know that the 'feet' of the planer look like.
Besides JPG agrees with Ed - static OK - mobile maybe not.
P.S. What does the sagulator say re using a 2x 10 pair?
