Bionic Wrench

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frank81
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Post by frank81 »

Ed in Tampa wrote:A very good friend has a bus company and he does most of the repair work. He will not use Craftsmen. I asked why and he showed me the Craftsmen socket. He said notice how the top edge is rounded over and the actual nut engaging section is about 1/16 down into the socket. Well aparently after you round over enough bolts and nuts becasue of this you get sockets that was ground so the actual engaging part is right at the edge of the socket.
The 1/16th of raidus isn't the problem for rounding off bolts, you won't get flush on any bolt with a flange anyway and if the bolt has that shallow of a head you should be using an open end or box wrench, not a socket. The problem is loose engineering tolerances and the fact that most people buy 12pt sockets, both due to convenience of use. It's darn near impossible to round a bolt off with a 6pt socket. As for the engineering tolerances, that goes all the way back to the decision of how often they are replacing tooling in the factory and how loose of a fit their demographic demands. The cost of sockets isn't metal, its the tooling.

Actually I'm going to edit that and say a socket should be your last resort for breaking a bolt loose. Box end wrench is the right tool for the job. I have triple and sometimes quadruple of all my standard combo wrenches because I use them so much more often, and one set of long handle combo wrenches for breaking bolts loose on motors on the stand. To me a socket is for reassembly or taking something apart that's in good enough condition to not have stuck bolts.
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billmayo
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Post by billmayo »

A set of 6 sided sockets should be in everyones tool box. I brought a set of deep wall impact sockets from Harbor Freight many years ago. I have been unable to break any of these sockets. I am lucky to have a Craftsman 1/2" drive 32" long breaker bar that I use a 6' pipe on for leavage without breaking. I broke a few of the Craftsman 24" breaker bars until this one was offered as a replacement. I have not seen any similar 1/2" drive breaker bars from Sears or anyone else in quite a few years.

13 Piece 1/2" Drive SAE Deep Wall Impact Socket Set Pittsburgh - item#67903 $23.99
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
frank81
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Post by frank81 »

billmayo wrote:A set of 6 sided sockets should be in everyones tool box. I brought a set of deep wall impact sockets from Harbor Freight many years ago. I have been unable to break any of these sockets. I am lucky to have a Craftsman 1/2" drive 32" long breaker bar that I use a 6' pipe on for leavage without breaking. I broke a few of the Craftsman 24" breaker bars until this one was offered as a replacement. I have not seen any similar 1/2" drive breaker bars from Sears or anyone else in quite a few years.

13 Piece 1/2" Drive SAE Deep Wall Impact Socket Set Pittsburgh - item#67903 $23.99
I have that exact set from HFT and I'm satisfied with them.

I would note you don't want to use impact sockets for everyday use. Like everything there are tradeoffs - they are made from a different metal so as not to shatter on the impact gun (never use normal sockets with a cheater bar or impact!). But they are more malleable so using them everyday will misshape them and over time you'll be rounding more bolts off.

And a poor man's way of using a cheater bar without dropping money on an expensive breaker bar or ruining your good stuff - I buy loose Stanley ratchets off the shelf at Walmart for ~$10 or less. My pipe only goes on the sacrificial Stanleys.
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letterk
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Post by letterk »

Sears is in a sad state and Kmart was even before they were acquired by Sears Holdings. Eddie Lampert is first and foremost a hedge fund manager. He was able to convince the market that both Sears and Kmart had value in their real estate and long-term leases that were under market value.

Sears has a store at the Mall of America. One would think that it would be a flagship store since it is one of the largest malls in the US. The store is a dump, the fixtures are dated and too much inventory is dated. Other stores in the area include a store stuck in the 40s and a store that the rest of the mall was literally torn down around it.
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skou
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Post by skou »

Yes, Sears is a bare shell of it's former self. Even the benchmark Craftsman hand tools are lacking.

Now, on to the subject of adjustable wrenches. My favourite, and has been for over 40 years, is an antique design, called the Plierench. It was invented by a guy in Chicago named Eifel. No, not Eiffel that did the tower, and the structure under the Statue of Liberty, but Eifel, with only 1 "f".

You can find them on Ebay. Not only do they have parallel jaws that tighten as you squeeze, but there is a (WARNING IT'S DANGEROUS) wire cutter, and one of the handles has a flathead screwdriver blade on the base. The wire cutter is in just the right place, that if you choke up on the handles, the web between your thumb and first finger will be in it. I've seen them come with up to 6 different jaws, including one that goes in backwards, to give you a 500 pound lift jack.

It is about the most durable tool I've ever used. Heavy enough to use as an alignment (tap) hammer, and I've NEVER stripped a bolt or nut head. This thing is delicate enough to unscrew a cap on a bottle of syrup, without bending the cap or cracking the bottle.

The 3 most useful multi-tools I've ever seen are;
The Swiss Army knife.
The Plierench, with all the extra jaws.

And, if you can't figure out the third of the set, you might wanna consider where you are. (But, the 10ER is the best of that group.):D

steve
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dgale
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Post by dgale »

I bought one of these at a yard sale for $0.25 several years ago and it consistently has proven itself invaluable for opening stubborn jars:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gilhoolie

Image
'78 Mark V 500 #27995 (my Dad bought new)
'82 Mark V 500 #96309
Two '47 10E's (serial#4314+6149) - one a dedicated drill press and the other a lathe
Two 10E/ER in parts slowly being restored…#26822 and #????? (SS plate missing)
SPT's: Bandsaw, Belt Sander, Strip Sander, Jointer, Jigsaw, Biscuit Joiner
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Ed in Tampa
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Post by Ed in Tampa »

frank81 wrote:The 1/16th of raidus isn't the problem for rounding off bolts, you won't get flush on any bolt with a flange anyway and if the bolt has that shallow of a head you should be using an open end or box wrench, not a socket. The problem is loose engineering tolerances and the fact that most people buy 12pt sockets, both due to convenience of use. It's darn near impossible to round a bolt off with a 6pt socket. As for the engineering tolerances, that goes all the way back to the decision of how often they are replacing tooling in the factory and how loose of a fit their demographic demands. The cost of sockets isn't metal, its the tooling.

Actually I'm going to edit that and say a socket should be your last resort for breaking a bolt loose. Box end wrench is the right tool for the job. I have triple and sometimes quadruple of all my standard combo wrenches because I use them so much more often, and one set of long handle combo wrenches for breaking bolts loose on motors on the stand. To me a socket is for reassembly or taking something apart that's in good enough condition to not have stuck bolts.

I totally agree other things than sockets should be used to break loose a stuck bolt.
But......

When you have a charter of 50 people and you have 30 minutes to get the bus back on the road and you just want to change the wiper motor and you happen to have the right socket in your hand along with the new motor you use what you got. Then when the bolt holding the motor rounds off because you couldn't get a full bite and the first 1/16 of an inch or so of the socket is useless you tend to stop buying them.

Yes after you are done you can sit back and say I used the wrong tool, the wrong socket or you can say I think if I have had a 1/16" or so more I could have gotten the bolt out.

Let me put it this way I have stopped buying Craftsman tools and I haven't regretted it yet. So for me it is a win win situation.

I remember back a few years ago on other forums everyone was buying Craftsman tablesaws known on the internet as zipcode saws because their model numbers were 5 digits like 22124 and 22104.

They were being made by Orion and everyone was swearing by them. I kept asking what happens when Sears stops buying from Orion and you can't get parts. Everyone said don't worry. Well I think Orion saw manufacture is kaput. At least I don't think Sears is selling the saws anymore.
Ed in Tampa
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frank81
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Post by frank81 »

Ed in Tampa wrote:I totally agree other things than sockets should be used to break loose a stuck bolt.
But......

When you have a charter of 50 people and you have 30 minutes to get the bus back on the road and you just want to change the wiper motor and you happen to have the right socket in your hand along with the new motor you use what you got. Then when the bolt holding the motor rounds off because you couldn't get a full bite and the first 1/16 of an inch or so of the socket is useless you tend to stop buying them.

Yes after you are done you can sit back and say I used the wrong tool, the wrong socket or you can say I think if I have had a 1/16" or so more I could have gotten the bolt out.

Let me put it this way I have stopped buying Craftsman tools and I haven't regretted it yet. So for me it is a win win situation.

I remember back a few years ago on other forums everyone was buying Craftsman tablesaws known on the internet as zipcode saws because their model numbers were 5 digits like 22124 and 22104.

They were being made by Orion and everyone was swearing by them. I kept asking what happens when Sears stops buying from Orion and you can't get parts. Everyone said don't worry. Well I think Orion saw manufacture is kaput. At least I don't think Sears is selling the saws anymore.
Only half-way playing Devil's Advocate, if I've got a bus I've got the space to bring a full set of tools with me and I'm going for the box end wrench. 30 seconds to potentially save an hours long headache.

I totally agree on the Crafstman power equipment. Those are almost 100% rebadges rather than contracted out designs. And more often than not the original brand was a better price.
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Ed in Tampa
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Post by Ed in Tampa »

frank81 wrote:Only half-way playing Devil's Advocate, if I've got a bus I've got the space to bring a full set of tools with me and I'm going for the box end wrench. 30 seconds to potentially save an hours long headache.

I totally agree on the Crafstman power equipment. Those are almost 100% rebadges rather than contracted out designs. And more often than not the original brand was a better price.
Actually he had 10 buses and garage for I think 6. He hired drivers and did most of the maintaince himself. I know that he owned close every tool you or I could think of. But he didn't own any Craftsman tools.

After seeing his success and why he faults Craftsman I tend to take his advice.
Ed in Tampa
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billmayo
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Post by billmayo »

[quote="skou"]Yes, Sears is a bare shell of it's former self. Even the benchmark Craftsman hand tools are lacking.

Now, on to the subject of adjustable wrenches. My favourite, and has been for over 40 years, is an antique design, called the Plierench. It was invented by a guy in Chicago named Eifel. No, not Eiffel that did the tower, and the structure under the Statue of Liberty, but Eifel, with only 1 "f".

You can find them on Ebay. Not only do they have parallel jaws that tighten as you squeeze, but there is a (WARNING IT'S DANGEROUS) wire cutter, and one of the handles has a flathead screwdriver blade on the base. The wire cutter is in just the right place, that if you choke up on the handles, the web between your thumb and first finger will be in it. I've seen them come with up to 6 different jaws, including one that goes in backwards, to give you a 500 pound lift jack.

It is about the most durable tool I've ever used. Heavy enough to use as an alignment (tap) hammer, and I've NEVER stripped a bolt or nut head. This thing is delicate enough to unscrew a cap on a bottle of syrup, without bending the cap or cracking the bottle.

The 3 most useful multi-tools I've ever seen are]

Thanks for the history lesson. In over 50 years and many tool boxes full of tools, I have never seen this wrench or heard about it. Always time to learn about unknown tools.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
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