Shopsmith Forums

Upon studying the video further I notice the 1/4 inch board looks to be tapered and favors the center line of the holes. Does anyone see that? The edge of holes and edge of 1/4 board is the same distance. The more I look at it the worse it gets lol.

I just finished building this jig. WOW it rocks!!! If you need one build this one is does the job. Hard to figure out of some of the assembly just looking at the pictures but it came out great!
Tom alisfair

Pictures and details on the build would be nice.

Hi All,
I built two of these jigs. I took pictures of one of them but don't know how to upload them on this site. If it is permitted you can contact me at alisfair@aol.com and I will shoot them your way. Really works great!
Tom alisfair

Hi All,
I built two of these jigs. I took pictures of one of them but don't know how to upload them on this site. If it is permitted you can contact me at alisfair@aol.com and I will shoot them your way. Really works great!
Tom alisfair

alisfair wrote:Hi All,
I built two of these jigs. I took pictures of one of them but don't know how to upload them on this site. If it is permitted you can contact me at alisfair@aol.com and I will shoot them your way. Really works great!
Tom alisfair

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=114

After building the jig I found you can change the dia or od of the tendons. Laying holes out on jig only gurantees you will stay the same distance from the fence on set up. After you cut a trial tendon you either tap the fence toward the cutter or away from the cutter to achieve the size you want. Found the build easy and a good idea.

I posted this for Alisfair and inserted the pictures for his German Tendon Jig.

The jig is only 6 pieces made out of OSB or plywood your choice.
(2) pieces 3/4 x 4 x 10 (Top and bottom pieces with the holes in them)
(2) " " 3/4 x 4 x 4 ( end pieces)
(1) " " 1.0 x 3 1/2 x 11 1/2 (offset piece next to bottom piece)
(1) " " 1/4 x 4 3/8 x 11 1/2 ( bottom piece)

Layout holes in the pieces 10 inches long. Draw a line 3/4 of and inch across the end of board. The spacing is not that important but try to make it look nice and even. The one edge of hole must be on or touching the 3/4 line.

Layout the holes starting with the smallest diameter and go to the next one larger. Do not mix hole sizes up .

Tape two 10 in pieces together and drill holes through both pieces at the same time as this will be very accurate. Do not force drill into material as it may make the holes sloppy.

Pull pieces apart then assemble with end pieces using nails, glue or screws.

Assemble the two bottom pieces together noticing the 1/4 piece is over hanging the 1.0 piece, that is good,

Now take and line up the piece that overhangs and line it up on the center line of all the holes. This will be a visual thing but get as close as possible. The closer you are to the centerline the smaller the tendon can be routed. After lining that up secure it nails, glue, screws, I layed out the drilled holes and left the center lines on them so when you place the desired hole by router cutter it will be easier to align the center of tendon. ( a easy. reference set up.)

Watch the video (in German) and look how he sets it up. In order to get the proper diameter of tendon you can try it out on a couple of pieces and then secure it. Once you get it close you can tap it towards or away from the cutter to accomplish this. Once where you want it tighten it down and have fun.

Of course you can put one or more holes in the jig as desired. Just don't mix diameters !
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Route an oversized slot in board using a round nose bit, then glue in a strip of sandpaper. Chuck dowel in the drill press and sand to rounded shape. I would first chamber on the disk sander to save wear on your paper during the final shaping.