Mark V blade slowed then stopped

[JPG]

It would be helpful if we knew the vintage we are dealing with.

A 'rebuilt' headstock could be just about anything.

A 'green' wire from inside the motor is not likely to be a grounding wire nor actually green when 'new'.

First off do you know if it is a 1 1/8hp or a 3/4hp motor and what brand(GE, A O Smith, Emerson, Something else)?

The blue/white motor wires are the 'current' colors.

If two wires from inside the motor were attached to the power switch, then both the white and black power cord wires also attach to the switch.

A pix of the motor(and wires) would be helpful, and maybe critical!

When referring to the power switch terminals, there are 'upper' terminals and 'center or lower' terminals. There be a left and right terminal of each(4 terminals).

Assuming the two motor wires originally went to the switch, one should be on the left side and the other on the right side. Upper or lower, it does not matter, but both should preferably be the same. The power cord wires go to the remaining two switch terminals(again one to each side and preferably both either upper or lower). There should be one wire on each of the switch terminals.

Last but not least, the green power cord wire should be connected to the outer shell of the motor.

[hnderson]

Thanks Dusty,

I started the Shopsmith again. It ran very slow with no revving up. I would think that if there was a problem with the switch, it wouldn't start at all.

I turned the dial to a higher speed but it didn't effect the speed. I turned it down and the motor stopped so I quickly switched it off.

Someone local has a used motor (same model # but newer). If the motor needs to be rebuilt, I think I'll just replace it.

H

[hnderson]

JPG,

Thanks for your response.

The headstock model # is SS19458 which, if I'm reading right was made between 1973 and 1978. It was rebuilt just before I purchased it about 8 to 10 years ago. The motor is 1 1/8 HP model C48L2A1. It's an AO Smith.

The green(blue?) wire is on the upper left. The yellow(white?) is on the upper right. The black is on the lower left. The white is on the lower right. A second green wire is attached to the motor housing.

[dusty]

Thanks Dusty,

I started the Shopsmith again. It ran very slow with no revving up. I would think that if there was a problem with the switch, it wouldn't start at all.

I turned the dial to a higher speed but it didn't effect the speed. I turned it down and the motor stopped so I quickly switched it off.

Someone local has a used motor (same model # but newer). If the motor needs to be rebuilt, I think I'll just replace it.

H

The fact that the motor started at all would cause me to believe the motor does not need to be rebuilt.

This may have already been discussed but I strongly recommend that you remove the drive belt and then turn of the motor. If the system is at low speed, the drive belt will be very hard to remove but it can be done.

Before doing that though, install a sanding disc and use it to manual turn the drive shaft while simultaneously changing the speed control dial to high speed.

This thread provides some related discussion and a couple good pictures (post #9) that depict where the belts should ride in the sheaves at high speed and low speed.

At low speed the sanding disc will be more difficult to spin but as the speed control mechanism changes toward high speed it should get easier to spin the sanding disc.

[billmayo]

Thanks Dusty,

I started the Shopsmith again. It ran very slow with no revving up. I would think that if there was a problem with the switch, it wouldn't start at all.

I turned the dial to a higher speed but it didn't effect the speed. I turned it down and the motor stopped so I quickly switched it off.

Someone local has a used motor (same model # but newer). If the motor needs to be rebuilt, I think I'll just replace it.

H

Several thoughts. I do not believe any Shopsmith motor should ever be rewind. The rewind specs for these motors were never made available and the 2 rewinded motors I have seen operated quite hot when compared to the original motors.

Second, I find the Shopsmith motors either operate at normal speed, buzz or not do anything. I can believe that a bearing seizing can give this problem but if you try to try to turn the sheaves, they will not turn or be be very dificult to turn. With the belt off the the motor sheaves, speed control to FAST to remove belt, the motor should operate at normal speed or not start, just buzz if it is a motor problem. I have never seen or found a slow starting or operating Shopsmith motor so cannot believe that is your actual problem. You need to check the ohm reading between the two motor wires. Should be around 1-2 ohms. I have seen the ON/OFF switch or loose or poorly connected wire terminals that can give some weird symptoms.

I find putting a sanding disk on the quill and slowly turning it will many times help me locate the area of the problem as I watch, listen and feel various places on the Shopsmith headstock.

Since you plan to remove the motor, remove it from the motor pan and blow out all the dirt, crud and sawdust that you can. You can use a short extension cord with the motor wires pushed into the cord end and try plugging it in the wall outlet. The motor should jerk and try to move so be careful. Let us know what happens.

You can contact me off line with your phone number if you still need help.