Shopsmith Forums

saminmn wrote:I am curious about why horizontal. If it is to support the workpiece on a table instead of against a tall fence, you may run into problems setting up without blade drift issues. I am still a newbie so others may need to correct me. Of coarse a table that tilted along, i.e. parallel to, the blade might take care of blade drift issues.

Yes the idea is to support the very thin piece after the cut. I have an idea of using a sliding table with a micro-height adjustment and an extended riving knife type outfeed table to keep the work out of the blade and so i can perform multiple slices quickly without having to handle the pieces in between cuts.

rlkeeney wrote:Have you seen this shop built band saw?
http://woodgears.ca/bandsaw/build.html

It's not horizontal but you might get some ideas.

I have indeed seen this and subscrbe to his youtube site. he has some awesome ideas. if i have to end up rebuilding a saw, then i will likely buy his plans and use his laminated wood design for the support frame. i would probably still cannibalize steel wheels and roller bearing type guides from an old tool though. darn i wish i had got the the 15" grizzly extreme saw that was on my local CL for 100 bucks, it wasnt there long though.

billmayo wrote:I was able to resaw without seeing any blade drift once I installed the 2 auto track bearings in the upper and lower blade guides. see http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... 970&page=3 posting #23 for my comments. This provides better blade stability just like the Carter Stabilizer upgrade.

i guess i dont entirely understand the modification Bill but maybe i just need to read the original post with the saw in front of me. I have actually acquired a like new part 555943 bandsaw so i was going to recondition my older magna model bandsaw (i bought blue max tires for it) and sell it on ebay. since it has a hole in the blade guard where someone tried to 'cut' a hole for dust suction with a torch and it has the iron table, it may be worth it just to try my hand and stretching this saw for my purposes. I just wish it could use a blade wider than 5/8".

my previous (pre divorce lol) saw did a great job of resawing. it was a 14" grizzly extreme with balanced cast iron wheels, roller bearing guides, urethane tires, and the widest timberwolf balde that i could put on it with a slight over tension. because of that success, i tend to believe that those four things have a great deal to do with drift free cutting. i also strongly believe in a sharp blade and only enough operator push to keep the work going through the saw. the vast majority of drift that i have seen has been from guys pushing it though faster than the blade could cut. of course, then there is the really old grizzly metal/wood combo saw in the shop at work that i have dubbed "Cant Get Right". No matter what we do the darn thing wont track right.