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Posted: Sun Sep 08, 2013 11:29 pm
by JPG
reible wrote:For cutting the bolt off I used a cut-off wheel, any method that works works.

The factory point is 1/4" x 20 thread so you might well have some thing that would work some where in the shop.

This is me being me about details so feel free to stop reading now.


When bolts are made the transition from full thread depth to shank is a tapered distance and unless you are me that works fine. I like the threads for applications like this to be full depth for as long as possible....

If you have a tap and die set you will notice that on the die will be a start side. (These pictures are poor quality, sorry about that.) This is a taper that helps get the threads started and is normally how they are used.

[ATTACH]22678[/ATTACH]

The other, non start marked has full depth threads.

[ATTACH]22679[/ATTACH]

Since the bolt is already threaded you can use the die backwards, starting it on the threads in this manor will work to cut the treads at the transition. In most cases when you feel it getting tight up near the transition you can still cut another revolution or a bit more.... Be careful to back off many times and limit how much force you apply.... The result is fully formed threads to very close to the transition.

[ATTACH]22680[/ATTACH]

I use a wrench so I limit the force I can create and have never broken a die doing this. Monkey OK, ape, too much.

Ed
Easy does it for sure!:rolleyes: Cutting with the back side.;)