Horizontal micro adjustment - may be a solution without a problem

[charlese]

I love your thinking! Great application!:D

[edflorence]

I'll add my cheers to the chorus! This is a set-up I intend to try out very soon. Thanks for sharing such a neat idea.

[keakap]

...I have a need to make fine adjustments when using the table saw and thought that the Incra Positioning fence would be great cost and setup limitations (moving the table height of both tables mainly) caused me to think of other ideas.

Along came the adjustable collar, If it could be used vertically, why not horizontally. I designed many jigs, most with precise dimensions and metal supports for repeatability, but simplicity won out....

Cool!
I use the collars with the Incra fence jig (one word: amazing)- one on carriage, one on the Extension table that the Incra mounts on. They are normally set for equal table height, so I can remove the TSII for some reason and then put it back easily. That conversion takes- literally- less than 60 seconds. [If for some reason I'd used one of the collars for something else, resetting the tables to same height takes about 18 seconds.]

BUT- even simpler, faster, easier is your collar jig. I love it. And I will make one or two forthwith. I can see using them a lot when I don't need the whole TSII fence thing, for a small cut or few.

Btw, I picked up a couple inexpensive lock-collars (from another SS Forum thread) and use them now for the Incra setup, since when using that I have no need (or very rare) for tweaking cutting depth, but do want the "preset" equal-height locks. So I have my 2 SS collars festooned with the almost-glow-in-the-dark yellow bands, ready to be part of a new jig set.

Thanks!

[dusty]

I posted earlier that I thought this idea was ingenious and I still feel that way but the jig is not without hiccups.

The fence does not always behave properly when adjusted. At least mine did not.

It moves but does not remain parallel to the blade unless you do something to keep it that way. Pressure against the fence to keep it firm against the front rail seems to work.

When the fence is locked, it squares itself to the front rail but not always in the proper location.

[JPG]

Gut feel says to position the collar close to the front rail.

[benush26]

Dusty,

I did first try it by placing the collar near the mid point/center of the fence, presuming that I didn't want to push an end, causing the fence to skew, but the front edge / end seemed to bind (not a lot but perceptually), so the second attempt I moved the collar about even with the front of the insert and that seemed to work well.

I didn't try to move it closer to the front as JPG has suggested, (I guess not wanting to tempt fate), but that is where I generally "tap" it to move it so maybe close to the front is better.

I also did not try it on the narrower fences, so it may not work as well or at all on them.

I'm wondering if there might be a fulcrum point on the fence and placing the collar there might give you better results.

I'll experiment more and see if I can fine tune it.

Ben

[dusty]

Dusty,

I did first try it by placing the collar near the mid point/center of the fence, presuming that I didn't want to push an end, causing the fence to skew, but the front edge / end seemed to bind (not a lot but perceptually), so the second attempt I moved the collar about even with the front of the insert and that seemed to work well.

I didn't try to move it closer to the front as JPG has suggested, (I guess not wanting to tempt fate), but that is where I generally "tap" it to move it so maybe close to the front is better.

I also did not try it on the narrower fences, so it may not work as well or at all on them.

I'm wondering if there might be a fulcrum point on the fence and placing the collar there might give you better results.

I'll experiment more and see if I can fine tune it.

Ben

I liked your idea and I believe it has merit. I too have been experimenting.

[JPG]

Allow me to explain my 'gut feel'. As Dusty has pointed out, keeping the fence against the front rail is crucial to prevent skewing the fence. Therefore keeping the 'adjuster' close to the front rail reduces the lever arm(adjuster to rail 'fulcrum') length. It also helps to maintain the fence 'guide' against the front rail by reducing hand position separation. I see this as a two handed operation. One hand maintaining pressure against the fence/rail guide and the other hand adjusting the collar and then securing the clamp. The first hand must also impart motion to the fence as the collar is adjusted.

Alternatively, the fence could be loosened, the collar adjusted, then the fence moved against the collar(stop) while maintaining fence guide to rail contact and then clamped.

Actually not much different than without the collar. IMHO the fence guide/rail contact is required during any 'fine' fence positioning.

[charlese]

...
Alternatively, the fence could be loosened, the collar adjusted, then the fence moved against the collar(stop) while maintaining fence guide to rail contact and then clamped.

Could also use the spindle adjust to make up for small errors -

[JPG]

Could also use the spindle adjust to make up for small errors - as long as they are ones that can be made smaller.

Ahh yes! The 'missing problem' part!:D However the collar is a finer adjuster.