Sheave alignment & a grounding question

[Cavediver]

You want to keep the Gilmer belt just off the shoulder of the drive sleeve clutch when manually rotating the quill in its proper direction, not in the reverse direction.
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When I find that the Gilmer belt wants to ride up on the shoulder of the drive sleeve clutch, you can see the belt slighly budging again this shoulder, I will remove the clamps and drill and tap for 3/4" OD washer and screw above the eccentric bushing. Then I set the eccentric bushing againest the washer and move the idler shaft bearing into the eccentric bushing checking where the belt is riding. Once the belt is slighly off the shoulder, I tighten the krunled set screw and then tighen the belt with the eccentric bushing. I leave about a 1/16" to 1/8" deflection in the Gilmer belt. I found the Shopsmith Gilmer belt tightening method appears too tight to me and has caused strange/unique noises to appear when operating.

I think I've got your meaning. At the moment, the belt is just kissing the side of the clutch; there's no visible deflection indicating that it's trying to climb that shoulder. However, the eccentric (and shaft / bearing) are set back into the housing by 1/8". When I upload the pictures tomorrow, the belt positions should be a little more clear.

(photos of silver-on-silver with a grey backdrop are really difficult to take with my crappy camera...)

[billmayo]

[quote="Cavediver"]I think I've got your meaning. At the moment, the belt is just kissing the side of the clutch]

Sounds like you are good. My modification only applys to the "A" headstock casing which used eccentric clamps to hold the eccentric bushing. The "B" headstock had the washer and screw to hold the ecccentric bushing. When I see the Gilmer belt trying to climb onto the drive sleeve clutch shoulder is the only time with the "A" headstock that I switched to the washer and screw. You still want the Gilmer belt to not ride hard againest the drive sleeve clutch shoulder as the belt will fray quickly. So I move the idler shaft bearing inside the eccentric bushing until the belt is just slightly off the shoulder. I still recommend the krunled point set screw for any eccentric bushing.