Sheave Pin - need part

[joshh]

Here is a picture of the teeth and wear Bill is referring to (old left vs. new right). I would suggest doing the Bill Mayo bolt modification in the link JPG posted above.

Edit: p.s. Please don't apologize for asking questions In the future this thread may benefit someone who didnt even know to ask the question!

[chrisvt]

Thanks for all the info and encouragement. I ordered the Control Sheave Assembly and they told me it was not in stock. The customer service person said it would have to be manufactured but it should not be long as it is a frequently replaced part (as you have all told me). That was the bad news. The good news: In stock and shipped later that day!

So in the meanwhile I will start pulling out the old one, cleaning, and checking those teeth! I would have to say that I am in infrequent speed changer. 90% of the time the Shopsmith speed is low and the bandsaw sits on one end, disc sander on the other.

I had one other question ... wondering if some set-ups/uses stress the SS more than others? For example, just before this failure I was using the lathe to turn a spindle between the two ends. Seems like this would put more lateral pressure on the unit than most other operations; not sure if this translates into more wear? I would welcome any thoughts on this?

Thanks again, hopefully the SS will be back on-line shortly.

- Chris

[JPG]

[quote="chrisvt"]Thanks for all the info and encouragement. I ordered the Control Sheave Assembly and they told me it was not in stock. The customer service person said it would have to be manufactured but it should not be long as it is a frequently replaced part (as you have all told me). That was the bad news. The good news: In stock and shipped later that day!

So in the meanwhile I will start pulling out the old one, cleaning, and checking those teeth! I would have to say that I am in infrequent speed changer. 90% of the time the Shopsmith speed is low and the bandsaw sits on one end, disc sander on the other.

I had one other question ... wondering if some set-ups/uses stress the SS more than others? For example, just before this failure I was using the lathe to turn a spindle between the two ends. Seems like this would put more lateral pressure on the unit than most other operations]

If the speed control is 'seldom' adjusted, crud could build up on the movable sheaves(both of them). That could cause the porkchop to pull against the wire loop when adjusting towards fast(trying to open the ldler pulley). The lack of timely response by the floating sheave(closing the motor pulley) will exacerbate the gear wear when adjusting towards slow.

Lube often!!!!!!!!! When lubricated they work so well!:) When crudded up ya kin hardly move them with a hammer!:eek::D

[chrisvt]

Hey folks,

Finally received my SS control sheave and mid-process putting it in, but had a few questions:

1) There was as you might expect a fair amount of sawdust inside the unit. Is it ok to put a little caulking around the port on the backside to keep some of that dust out. Even when it's on it isn't all that tight. I know it isn't an airtight system but seems like that would help?

2) The instructions for control sheave replacement call for 30W non-detergent oil, but they never call for using it. I expect it is for lubing the shaft before it goes back on, but I had read (somewhere) that 10W was used for normal lubrication on the SS. Thoughts?

3) When I pulled the quadrant off a small white plastic sort of spring (very similar to the small metal spring on the front (outside) of the quadrant but smaller fell on the floor. I don't see it on any of the exploded drawings, but I am guessing it was behind one of the screws (same one with the spring maybe?) inside to hold wire out of the way?

4) Drive belt ... looks like it could use a replacement. SS is killing me on shipping and I have seen some folks order some on eBay with good results from one seller. The one I am looking at says he sells "USA made belts of proper width and length not (as other sellers) made in India knock-offs" ... sound like a decent one?

5) Drive belt - mine is marked 504193, but the replacement one on the SS site says: 521682. Any ideas why? The eBay seller mentioned above has a replacement he describes as replacing the 504193 one.

5) I cleaned off the quadrant teeth and they look pretty good and pretty well centered. I may put the bolt replacing the pin per Bill Mayo's suggestion but at any rate, should I lube these quadrant teeth/worm at all, or is that just asking for buildup issues?

I think that's it (until the next time)! Thanks for the continuing support, you folks are an awesome resource (what did we do before the web, eh?).

- Chris

[billmayo]

Hey folks,

Finally received my SS control sheave and mid-process putting it in, but had a few questions:

1) There was as you might expect a fair amount of sawdust inside the unit. Is it ok to put a little caulking around the port on the backside to keep some of that dust out. Even when it's on it isn't all that tight. I know it isn't an airtight system but seems like that would help?

2) The instructions for control sheave replacement call for 30W non-detergent oil, but they never call for using it. I expect it is for lubing the shaft before it goes back on, but I had read (somewhere) that 10W was used for normal lubrication on the SS. Thoughts?

3) When I pulled the quadrant off a small white plastic sort of spring (very similar to the small metal spring on the front (outside) of the quadrant but smaller fell on the floor. I don't see it on any of the exploded drawings, but I am guessing it was behind one of the screws (same one with the spring maybe?) inside to hold wire out of the way?

4) Drive belt ... looks like it could use a replacement. SS is killing me on shipping and I have seen some folks order some on eBay with good results from one seller. The one I am looking at says he sells "USA made belts of proper width and length not (as other sellers) made in India knock-offs" ... sound like a decent one?

5) Drive belt - mine is marked 504193, but the replacement one on the SS site says: 521682. Any ideas why? The eBay seller mentioned above has a replacement he describes as replacing the 504193 one.

5) I cleaned off the quadrant teeth and they look pretty good and pretty well centered. I may put the bolt replacing the pin per Bill Mayo's suggestion but at any rate, should I lube these quadrant teeth/worm at all, or is that just asking for buildup issues?

I think that's it (until the next time)! Thanks for the continuing support, you folks are an awesome resource (what did we do before the web, eh?).

- Chris

1 - I would not worry about the sawdust getting inside the headstock. Any caulking or sealing could cause you problems later when accessing the inside of the headstock. Just blow out what sawdust you can when you lubricate the headstock.

2 - The big headstock problem is that most owners do not oil or use too little oil for the control sheave. Any oil is better than no oil. I use Zoom Spout Turbine Oil available at Ace, hardware and some big box stores. It is around a 10 SAE weight. I am pushing for at least 12 to 20 drops of oil often in the control sheave when the speed control dial is set to FAST and the motor off. Don't forget the motor floating sheave and motor shaft and key at this time. I recommend cycling the speed from FAST to SLOW really slow after lubricating to allow the oil to flush out the control sheave bearing.

3 - Yes,there was a white plastic clip mounted inside on the right most screw that holds the speed control assembly. I find if I route the motor and power leads between the front of the casing and the lock rod, this will keep the wires away from the Speed Control Assembly and control sheave retaining loop. I always check after installing the switch to make sure the wires are clear.

4 - The Shopsmith motor drive belt is about a 1/16" wider than 1/2" and this makes a big difference. I replace the motor drive belt when the width is equal to or less than 1/2". Shopsmith is the place to buy your belts. However I have been buying my belts from Gary at bandsaw-tire-warehouse on Ebay as they are the correct width and length. I have been using his belts for a few years without any problems. His Blue Max bandsaw tires are the best out there.

5 - Shopsmith has had several belt suppliers recently. There lastest belt is excellant so I guess they needed a new number to separate this latest belt for their earlier poorer quality belts.

I use a Moly Lube spray on the speed control quadrant and worn gear. No grease or other dirt collecting material should be used. I find the over lubing of the control sheave will leave a crud like material on these parts over time and does not appear to cause any excessive wear.

[charlese]

Calking? NO!!! To understand why - when you run the motor, put your hand beneath the headstock near the spindle side. You can feel the air coming from the large vent. The air movement is needed to cool the headstock. Blocking the intake(s) will slow cooling.

Use the thinner oil and adhere to regular lubes. Use non detergent oil. Turbo oil is an excellent choice.

Get a couple drive belts from Shopsmith. Don't use Gates belts as they have un-even sides. This causes extra wear on sheaves and shafts. Plus more noise. Shopsmith once went to Gates when Goodyear belts were no longer available. Took a year, but they switched back to good belts.

[chrisvt]

Thanks Bill. As usual tons of good info; much appreciated and thanks for getting back so quickly.

- Chris

Thanks also Chuck. I had posted when your response came through. Have a great Holiday folks!

[JPG]

Shopsmith Mark 5/V/VII all suffer the same results of poor upkeep and operation. Too rapid turning on the speed control will over stress stuff and eventually cause failure/deformation.

Too seldom lubing produces the same result although different parts.

Not usually mentioned until it is too late is the cleaning out of accumulated saw dust from the interior of the headstock and more importantly the motor.

The motor is starved for air flow by the minimal openings in the headstock for incoming air. Those openings are intentionally small to minimize saw dust flow into the headstock and motor. I think the Power Pro is more so starved for sufficient air flow.

Dropping the motor is relatively simple and allows thorough oiling and other lubrication as well as blowing the crud out of the motor interior. 4 more screws and the motor is better accessible for blowing through the interior of the motor(power pro excepted).

The gross accumulation of interior dust usually take decades to get to a state serious enough to interfere with cooling. Blowing it out extends that time.

I find it interesting that the Mark VII has both an intake and an exhaust for air flow to the motor on the bottom of the motor pan.

[chrisvt]

I vacuumed pretty thoroughly, maybe I will hitch up the compressor and blow the motor out as well as long as it's opened up.

[JPG]

I vacuumed pretty thoroughly, maybe I will hitch up the compressor and blow the motor out as well as long as it's opened up.

You will likely be amazed at what flies out!:D