Shopsmith Forums

highwing182 wrote:I'm not sure how to attach a picture from my iPhone so some guidance there would help.

As for the screws, its 2 of the 5 that hold the grey motor pan to the upper headstock. With the belt cover off I can see that they are Tinnerman clips so I can replace these if I can drop this pan enough without taking the belt off. These screws are the same as the two that hold the belt cover on.

If I removed the four machine screws that connect the motor to the pan is there anything back there to support the motor other than the belt and the power wire?

I use #10 X 5/8" stainless steel sheet metal screws for the belt housing and for the 4 side motor pan screws and a #8 X 5/8" for the front of the headstock motor pan (threaded into the casing, no clip). I find I can reuse these screws multiple times in the spring clips with out stripping the spring clips. Yes, you could replace the Tinnerman clips without fully removing the motor but why. I find extra Tinnerman clips in a few motor pans. I find I have to remove the motor from the motor pan to get all the sawdust and crud blown from the motor. There will always be sawdust and crud left in the motor even when using compressed air without removing the motor.

The motor pan screws are what holds and supports the motor pan. I always disconnect the switch before removing the motor pan screws. Also I set the speed control to FAST and carefully walk the belt off the motor floating sheave before removing screws. Do not let the motor floating sheave snap back againest the motor fan sheave and be very careful of your fingers when doing this.

Hi Again.
Sorry it seems that I had a case of tunnel vision when I read your original post. But yes the entire weight of the motor is held by the 5 screws that you mentioned. Also the wiring from the switch to the motor will move when you remove the motor. Remove the wiring from the switch to prevent damage to the switch before trying to remove the motor.
Bill V

I doubt the tinnerman clips are 'stripped', but they may be 'spread'. They could be 'squeezed' back.

I would apply 'belt dressing on the belts to help limber them and reduce the 'set'.

The headstock can only be accurately described as noisey. However it can also create added noise when something is amiss.

Further down the road, you will notice the top of the headstock becoming quite warm. This is typical especially at higher speeds and long run time.

Do notice added posts to the other thread.

??Why did you create this second one????

I also added this info on your original post.

You said you will oil the two holes as directed. I want to say that more oil than ou can get through those holes is a good thing and will not only allow a smoother speed change, but also help to preserve the control sheave end button bearing and clip. \

Also I would like to say that a little wheel bearing grease on the pork chop rack will not hurt a thing. Yes, the grease will attract saw dust, but a regular cleaning every 10 hours of operation will allow you to remove the dust and clean the rack.

In addition this from another thread.

http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showpos ... ostcount=5

Again to all, thanks for the great information. Combining it all I will:

Photo the back of the switch,
Disconnect the switch wires,
Ease the belt off the motor sheaves in high speed position,
Drop the motor pan,
Remove the motor from the pan,
Repair or replace the Tinnerman clips,
Clean out the extra machine oil that dropped in the pan,
Touch up surface rust on the inside of the pan near the power wire grommet,
Dress the belt,
Re-oil the control sheaves on the intermediate shaft,
Reattach the motor to pan,
Reattach the pan to the headstock with #10 stainless screws (#8 in front),
Reattach switch wiring per the photo,
Ease the belt back on the motor sheaves,
Re-oil the motor fan and floating sheaves,
Cycle the speed controller using the sanding disk to roll the belts,
Run up the motor and cycle through the speeds a few times,
Run the motor at mid speed for 5-10 minutes to warm the entire headstock.

Only a few things could be more fun!

Still considering the gear grease/no grease recommendation choices.

highwing182 wrote:Again to all, thanks for the great information. Combining it all I will:

Photo the back of the switch,
Disconnect the switch wires,
Ease the belt off the motor sheaves in high speed position,
Drop the motor pan,
Remove the motor from the pan,
Repair or replace the Tinnerman clips,
Clean out the extra machine oil that dropped in the pan,
Touch up surface rust on the inside of the pan near the power wire grommet,
Dress the belt,
Re-oil the control sheaves on the intermediate shaft,
Reattach the motor to pan,
Reattach the pan to the headstock with #10 stainless screws (#8 in front),
Reattach switch wiring per the photo,
Ease the belt back on the motor sheaves,
Re-oil the motor fan and floating sheaves,
Cycle the speed controller using the sanding disk to roll the belts,
Run up the motor and cycle through the speeds a few times,
Run the motor at mid speed for 5-10 minutes to warm the entire headstock.

Only a few things could be more fun!

Still considering the gear grease/no grease recommendation choices.

A plan! A plan!

And a good one!

Update:

Great fun here. The motor pan removal and pan Tinnerman clip repairs were very straightforward. However, something I found out that you all probably already know is that the GE 1981 motor has really bad insulation on the stock 16/2 motor leads. When I disconnected them from the switch, the insulation just crumbled off. So I pulled the motor from the pan, cut the leads back into the main insulation, and inspected the white and black insulation there and it was much better not exposed to the air. So I cut back another couple of inches under the outer insulation, stripped and cleaned the wires very well, and soldered on a new pair of 14/2 leads. To keep the old insulation side of the connection from air exposure I covered both with heat shrink and then covered the whole area with a larger heat shrink. Then I added insulated switch connectors. The green ground wire to the motor case was also very poorly done and easily broke so I replaced that connection as well. I wonder how many of these are out there with ground leads broken off?

While I had the motor off the pan I polished that up, checked the original 14/2 power cord and molded-in stress relief, and shot the inside of the pan with a clear ceramic engine paint I use for engine parts that I never want to rust. It will also make future cleanup of this pan much easier.

SS did a great job protecting the tubes and ways before shipping back in 1981 as there was no rust after 33 years. I polished these with a blue scratch-free Scotchbrite, cleaned them with mineral spirits, and then wiped them down with alcohol before waxing them. They really shine.

As for the extension, table, and tailstock posts, I am cleaning them up for a coat of wax also. I did find that if I rolled up tight a very coarse green-grey Scotchbrite, it fits tightly in all six post holes and can be turned through each hole and out the other end for a clean scrub of these passages.

Other than the motor wire insulation, the three parts that did poorly after 33 years were the table pinion shaft, the tailstock tube collars, and the saw table splitter. Each of these were easily cleaned with a wire wheel and will be waxed or clear sprayed.

There is some vibration in the headstock when running either side of a sweet spot about midrange which I attribute to the belt being set for so long. I did condition it but am not sure that helped. So I ordered a new belt along with casters and basic lathe, saw, and sanding accessories. I will wait on a good sale for the band saw, clear table saw guard, and lathe chuck.

As soon as it warms up I will get a few pictures to post but I assume it looks like a new MkV did in 1981.

Question: I have noticed pictures of grinding wheels installed on the band saw end of the headstock. Is this typical? Could you put a wire brush wheel there as we'll?

I use a wire wheel on the quill side with the quill all the way extended for working room. I don't see why you couldn't use it on the left side but you may be lacking room to work.

The left end mounted grinding wheels were likely to allow lathe tool sharpening while turning on the quill end.

The wire wheel can be mounted on the left end, but do be careful. Kinda crowded!

Many of us have used unguarded grinding wheels at times over the years but we shouldn't...
One of my BIL's caught a section of an exploding grinding wheel at work with his upper lip. It took a lot of stitches and he doesn't recommend the experience at all.
I am pretty fussy about always wearing safety glasses or a full face shield when using a wire wheel. Those wires fly out pretty hard when one breaks off.
It would be pretty easy to make a wheel guard that mounts on the way tubes for a wheel on the left side. By mounting it on the way tubes it could follow the headstock across the tubes and it wouldn't require drilling the belt cover for mounting.


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