d.rositer wrote:Next time, consider sanding the 'drawer interior' before gluing. Makes it easier and does not detract from form of drawers.
Dan
Dan, good point. I will be sure to do the sanding before gluing in the future. I'm sure there will be more issues that will pop up from this, my first attempt, that will alter my technique in the future.
Fred
Fred Sheldon
The Woodlands, Tx
'52 10ER # 60869 (restored in 2012, used as a dedicated drill press), '52 10ER # 88712 (restored 01/2013), 52 10ER # 71368 (in process of restoring), '83 500 Shorty with OPR installed, '83 520 PowerPro with Lift Assist, 6" Joiner, 6" Belt Sander, 18" Jig Saw, 11" Band Saw, 12" ProPlaner, SS Crosscut Table. SS Dust Collector, Hitachi 1/2" router, Work Sharp 3000 with all attachement, Nova G3 Chuck, Universal Tool Rest, Appalachia Tool Works Sled.
You sir accomplished more in one day then most do in a week. Congrats on the new project and as always thanks for taking us along for the learning.
Jerry Penny
2centsworth
The Woodlands, Tx
SS 520 SN#518424 2000 (reversed motor), Shopsmith 10 E (shorty) fully restored by Skip with DC motor, Shopsmith 10 ER fully restored by Skip with DC motor, Shopsmith 10 ER (under going restoration), Greenie Shorty sanding station, Greenie Mini jointer station, SS Bandsaw power station, SS Planner, SS overhead pin router, SS Belt Sander, SS Strip Sander,, SS Jigsaw, SS Dust Collector, Ringmaster, and still having fun looking for more !
Another option if not sanding the interior of drawer is to glue in felt. It covers a multitude of sins.
My last one ended like this on page 3 http://www.handymanclub.com/connect/forums/aft/50285
Sorry, no intent to steal your thread but showing that finishing with felt works very well. However, if you decide to flock, it is better if you do some sanding before application of flocking. Just tossing out some options.
swampgator wrote:Another option if not sanding the interior of drawer is to glue in felt. It covers a multitude of sins.
My last one ended like this on page 3 http://www.handymanclub.com/connect/forums/aft/50285
Sorry, no intent to steal your thread but showing that finishing with felt works very well. However, if you decide to flock, it is better if you do some sanding before application of flocking. Just tossing out some options.
Gator,
Thanks for that link. Nice job. I have some red felt that I was going to use just as you have. This first one is a learning curve. So far nothing has broken, but it's probably going to happen sooner or later.
Fred
Fred Sheldon
The Woodlands, Tx
'52 10ER # 60869 (restored in 2012, used as a dedicated drill press), '52 10ER # 88712 (restored 01/2013), 52 10ER # 71368 (in process of restoring), '83 500 Shorty with OPR installed, '83 520 PowerPro with Lift Assist, 6" Joiner, 6" Belt Sander, 18" Jig Saw, 11" Band Saw, 12" ProPlaner, SS Crosscut Table. SS Dust Collector, Hitachi 1/2" router, Work Sharp 3000 with all attachement, Nova G3 Chuck, Universal Tool Rest, Appalachia Tool Works Sled.
Fred, you be smart as you have a flat bottom already cut out. When I did my last box, I did not realize that the bottom was not level. So, took it to the disk sander, put the fence on the table and pinched the box between the disk and fence. Not smart. What still amazes me about the drop was that it went opposite of which I thought it would go. It slipped away from me and fell to the garage floor. But, you already have your flat bottom.
You are looking good, my friend. Waiting to see the remainder. I'm sure it will be great.
Got to spend a few hours in the shop tonight to try to finish up my first band saw box.
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Using my large drum sander to sand outside of box.
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Used a small drum sander to sand insides.
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Sanding the back plate.
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Applying Sanding sealer. Not sure if it was necessary but I did it anyway.
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Super glued a strip of sanding paper to piece of wood to get to the insides in tight areas. Otherwise I just folded a piece of sandpaper and wedged it into the tight areas.
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Fred Sheldon
The Woodlands, Tx
'52 10ER # 60869 (restored in 2012, used as a dedicated drill press), '52 10ER # 88712 (restored 01/2013), 52 10ER # 71368 (in process of restoring), '83 500 Shorty with OPR installed, '83 520 PowerPro with Lift Assist, 6" Joiner, 6" Belt Sander, 18" Jig Saw, 11" Band Saw, 12" ProPlaner, SS Crosscut Table. SS Dust Collector, Hitachi 1/2" router, Work Sharp 3000 with all attachement, Nova G3 Chuck, Universal Tool Rest, Appalachia Tool Works Sled.
[attach]23842[/attach]
Applied Danish Oil and then Friction Polish. I will be adding red felt to the insides of the drawers.
[attach]23843[/attach]
Last step will be to cut out and attach some handles. Not sure I like the finish look, but this was a prototype anyway. I used the pith of my oak logs and they seemed to work ok, no cracks yet. I have to say there is a lot more work required to make one of these compared to turning a bowl. I had to do lots of hand sanding to get things smooth.
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Fred Sheldon
The Woodlands, Tx
'52 10ER # 60869 (restored in 2012, used as a dedicated drill press), '52 10ER # 88712 (restored 01/2013), 52 10ER # 71368 (in process of restoring), '83 500 Shorty with OPR installed, '83 520 PowerPro with Lift Assist, 6" Joiner, 6" Belt Sander, 18" Jig Saw, 11" Band Saw, 12" ProPlaner, SS Crosscut Table. SS Dust Collector, Hitachi 1/2" router, Work Sharp 3000 with all attachement, Nova G3 Chuck, Universal Tool Rest, Appalachia Tool Works Sled.
Oh my goodness it is absolutely beautiful. I am sure I like the results. Are you kidding, for a first pass and prototype it is FANTASTIC. Can't wait to see it in person this weekend.
Jerry Penny
2centsworth
The Woodlands, Tx
SS 520 SN#518424 2000 (reversed motor), Shopsmith 10 E (shorty) fully restored by Skip with DC motor, Shopsmith 10 ER fully restored by Skip with DC motor, Shopsmith 10 ER (under going restoration), Greenie Shorty sanding station, Greenie Mini jointer station, SS Bandsaw power station, SS Planner, SS overhead pin router, SS Belt Sander, SS Strip Sander,, SS Jigsaw, SS Dust Collector, Ringmaster, and still having fun looking for more !