Shopsmith Forums

On the original problem. Is it possible to park a floating table on the infeed side of the bandsaw table using the 5' tubes? Then a simple "L" attached to the miter gauge. Secure the workpiece to the long leg of the "L" with double stick tape. Any infeed support would work.

jimthej wrote:On the original problem. Is it possible to park a floating table on the infeed side of the bandsaw table using the 5' tubes? Then a simple "L" attached to the miter gauge. Secure the workpiece to the long leg of the "L" with double stick tape. Any infeed support would work.

If one was not using a power station maybe!:D (A crafters station might do that).

I do not share your faith in double sticky tape.

Interesting approach.

JPG40504 wrote:If one was not using a power station maybe!:D (A crafters station might do that).

I do not share your faith in double sticky tape.

Interesting approach.

I Use the good stuff Shopsmith sells. I often "seat" it with a clamp or two. I have broken half inch thick parts getting the tape apart:( .

jimthej wrote:I Use the good stuff Shopsmith sells. I often "seat" it with a clamp or two. I have broken half inch thick parts getting the tape apart:( .

How about a 5' 2 x 6?;)

[quote="JPG40504"]How about a 5' 2 x 6?]

I dropped one of those on my big toe last summer. Except that it was only about three feet long. The board, that is. The toenail has almost grown back now.

So what the heck are you making that needs a seriously acute angle on the end of a 2x6, anyway? I'll settle for a hint, and then we can all have a guessing contest.

BuckeyeDennis wrote:I dropped one of those on my big toe last summer. Except that it was only about three feet long. The board, that is. The toenail has almost grown back now.

So what the heck are you making that needs a seriously acute angle on the end of a 2x6, anyway? I'll settle for a hint, and then we can all have a guessing contest.

A ramp for wide wheel chair folks to be able to travel up 3 steps. It needs to be wide, so multiple 2 x 6 laid side by side. The cut is to make the ends horizontal where they meet the top step and the floor. It is solid across to accommodate different wheel spacings.

I cut a couple by TS by varying depth cuts and hogging out between. Looks like a beaver made it.

Well someone neglected to add 3/4"(the base height) to the 2x6 height(5 1/2") and realize that exceeds the thickness range of the bandsaw.

Step one was to reduce the jig height where it needs to pass under the upper glade guide stuff.

Still a problem with the pivot post 'nut', but by starting the cutting with it just past the 'stuff', it will not interfere. This was a blessing in disguise, as it provided a stop for loading the work piece(2 x 6) into the jig.

So after the 'tweaking' the jig now looks like this.

[ATTACH]24076[/ATTACH]

That still did not allow for the 2 x 6 to clear the upper guide stuff, so a look see at what was restricting the height led to this modification. I filed about 1/8" from the part that was hitting the bottom of the upper guide bearing structure. Alas this only resulted in 6 1/8" clearance.

[ATTACH]24079[/ATTACH]

So I bit the bullet and hacked off 1/8" from the side of the 2x6's so they would clear. Crude, but the radiant heater yesterday was 'setting in the west' and I wanted to get this done. Do not ask why outdoors.

Finally here be before and after pix of the 2x6 at the acute angle cut.

Before surfaces were cut then 'hand planed' down and looked like beaver tracks. No the tire tracks are not relevant here.

[ATTACH]24077[/ATTACH]

Much better looking today. There are six 2 x 6 with this cut on both ends.

[ATTACH]24078[/ATTACH]

JPG40504 wrote:Well someone neglected to add 3/4"(the base height) to the 2x6 height(5 1/2") and realize that exceeds the thickness range of the bandsaw.

Have you considered firing or at least reprimanding the "shop assistant" who made such a grievous error when calculating? Because of course it couldn't have been you!

Glad you got it fixed.

benush26 wrote:Have you considered firing or at least reprimanding the "shop assistant" who made such a grievous error when calculating? Because of course it couldn't have been you! Yeah, right!!!!

Glad you got it fixed.

If I did that for every frigging o 'shoot', I would never get anything accomplished!

He who makes no mistakes is not trying to do anything at all!

Truth be told, no 'calculating' took place at all! Therein lies the tale!!!

At least it now will cut 1/8" thicker than before!:D

I also determined a 1/4" blade with 'limited resaw capability' will nicely cut 5 1/2" of spruce when new(old stock).

The ramp reminds me of a project I did about 20 something years ago.

In my case I needed a short ramp to get under my Escort to change the oil and filter a little easier.

My solution was to get (4) 2x6 then glue and screw them together making sure I didn't put any screws along the diagonal line I had drawn. When it had sat long enough for the glue to dry I then used a circular saw to cut on the line, first on one side then flip and do the other side. When the cut was done I had two ramps.

This is what they look like:

[ATTACH]24082[/ATTACH]

Never bothered to plane or sand the ramp as they are only a utilitarian object. I guess I could have slopped some paint on them....

Of course the learning experience in making a jig is always a good thing.

Ed