Shopsmith Forums

I don't quite have clearance here but I can solve that with a tiny depth of cut adjustment (moves every thing up a little). I can then regain the depth of cut by using the quill adjust.

A lot of tinkering for a simple cross cut.

I think it is obvious why I direct my frustration toward the "Lift Assist". If it was not there, this would all be a non-issue. Just shift every thing further to the right and I gain all kinds of clearance.

Looking at this picture makes me believe I might be able to gain the required clearance simple by moving part of the lift assist mechanism. There appears to be about 1/2" to gain. I'll have to readjust the lift assist later but ....oh well.

[ATTACH]24188[/ATTACH]

Don't be confused by the board that is there. I was using it to check clearance and table tilt.

Get ready to explain the miter gauge on the floating table!:D

A second connected by a stick to the 'normal' slot would act like a sled.

JPG40504 wrote: A second connected by a stick to the 'normal' slot would act like a sled.

You, sir, are a true gem.

I don’t know how, or even why, but I know that, ONE DAY, I’m gonna do it.

JPG40504 wrote:Get ready to explain the miter gauge on the floating table!:D

A second connected by a stick to the 'normal' slot would act like a sled.

Simple explanation. The floating table w/miter track is easily aligned to the main table and once done, remains aligned. The miter gauge provides the 90 degree reference for the miter cut and a clamping point to secure the work piece.

I thought about using a second miter gauge but opted not to at this time.

A piece clamped to the under side of the work piece, as I have done here, could function as you propose but only if the side of the floating table was true and smooth. I clamped it there as a safety factor. I think the explanation is "redundancy".

What I am doing right now is a project conjured up as a proof of concept build for the summer cabinet project.

Gee, Dusty, if you only had a PowerPro! Then you could reverse the saw blade, reverse the motor rotation, saw from the "normal" backside of the table and go ahead and tilt like you are used to. Only this time the tilt would be to the "normal" left side of the Shopamith instead of the right side.

charlese wrote:Gee, Dusty, if you only had a PowerPro! Then you could reverse the saw blade, reverse the motor rotation, saw from the "normal" backside of the table and go ahead and tilt like you are used to. Only this time the tilt would be to the "normal" left side of the Shopamith instead of the right side.

I followed your comment as far as "Gee, if you only had a PowerPro"! From that point on, I am uncertain of what you are trying to tell me.

Go ahead. Say it straight out so that I can understand.

dusty wrote:I followed your comment as far as "Gee, if you only had a PowerPro"! From that point on, I am uncertain of what you are trying to tell me.

Go ahead. Say it straight out so that I can understand.

Dusty, it made sense to me. Run the motor backwards. Put the saw blade on backwards, and tilt the table the other direction.

Now run the lumber from the back side, which would work because the blade and motor are both running backwards.

(I think.):D

steve

skou wrote:Dusty, it made sense to me. Run the motor backwards. Put the saw blade on backwards, and tilt the table the other direction.

Now run the lumber from the back side, which would work because the blade and motor are both running backwards.

(I think.):D

steve

Where are the way tubes in this scenario?

How do I make the motor run backward?

I can tilt the other direction but only about 20°s.

If the motor is running the other direction, the blade wouldn't really be on backwards would it.

Does it really make sense?

dusty wrote:Where are the way tubes in this scenario?
In their normal position

How do I make the motor run backward?
I suggested you buy or borrow a PowerPro

I can tilt the other direction but only about 20&#176]You're correct, my bad:o - [/B]

If the motor is running the other direction, the blade wouldn't really be on backwards would it.
It would if you reverse the blade on the arbor.

Does it really make sense?

]
It doesn't, make sense, because the headstock would be in the way of the tilt. 20 degrees isn't enough:(
You had the best solution - moving the lift -.

Perhaps there is another method to form the pieces you want? For example, sawing the angles on narrower pieces then joining them together.

Yes indeedy some folks have not thought this through!:rolleyes:

No matter what version of main table one has it only tilts in the 'reverse direction over a very limited angle range(far short of 45 degrees) when the headstock is in 'saw' position.

Also y'sall left out a step after reverse rotation and reverse blade ' - Watch sawblade free wheel on the arbor(assuming a normal saw arbor).



The reason I mention a need to explain the location of the miter gauge on the floating table is that not everyone here is aware of your modified floating table with an attached miter slot.