Shopsmith Forums

That would certainly help! I'll keep that in mind, Ben. Thanks!
Forrest

forrestb wrote:I have need to cut some decidedly non-standard angles that I could not get on Richard's MiterSet. The 520 fence and the miter gauge and the Wixey was the answer.

I set the miter gauge to 0 deg, put it in the fence slot, clamped it, set the Wixey on the miter surface, loosened the miter lock, and rotated it to the desired angle, 35.3 deg.

It's one of those things where a third hand would come in handy. I think I'll work on a jig.

Forrest

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Great idea. It only took me a couple of seconds looking at the photo to see exactly what you were doing.

Have you used this enough to get some idea how accurate it is?

forrestb wrote:I have need to cut some decidedly non-standard angles that I could not get on Richard's MiterSet. The 520 fence and the miter gauge and the Wixey was the answer.

I set the miter gauge to 0 deg, put it in the fence slot, clamped it, set the Wixey on the miter surface, loosened the miter lock, and rotated it to the desired angle, 35.3 deg.

It's one of those things where a third hand would come in handy. I think I'll work on a jig.

Forrest

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I am not absolutely certain what you are attempting to achieve but I think I do the same thing by clamping the miter bar in a bench vise just to stabilize it in a specific position. I then zero the Wixey on the miter bar and then set the miter with the Wixey resting on the face of the miter gauge.

When using the Wixey, I allow a bit of extra time for the Wixey to settle in. It seems to me that while the Wixey response immediately to a change in position an accurate reading sometimes take a few seconds.

I need to set the miter gauge to some unusual angles for a cabinet I am working on. The weird angles come about as a result of having to reduce the size of the cabinet once I had the frame together and mounted on the wall. It stuck out too far. The miter angles for the moldings changed from the original design as a result.

I put the miter gauge in the fence only because it is handy and pretty level to begin with - plus I don't have a bench vise in my shop. I do, but it has to stay on the shelf until I need it and clamp it to my workbench.

Just one of the restrictions of having half of a garage that has to be clear for SWMBO to park her car at night.

Forrest

forrestb wrote:I need to set the miter gauge to some unusual angles for a cabinet I am working on. The weird angles come about as a result of having to reduce the size of the cabinet once I had the frame together and mounted on the wall. It stuck out too far. The miter angles for the moldings changed from the original design as a result.

I put the miter gauge in the fence only because it is handy and pretty level to begin with - plus I don't have a bench vise in my shop. I do, but it has to stay on the shelf until I need it and clamp it to my workbench.

Just one of the restrictions of having half of a garage that has to be clear for SWMBO to park her car at night.

Forrest

Thank you for the reply.

I then conclude, from your comments, that you are doiong the same thing as I described except that your reference is horizontal rather than vertical.

I gotta agree with Dusty's first suggestion. Mounting the miter gauge with the 'bar' near vertical, zeroing the angle measuring device(wixey etc.) and then setting said device on the miter gauge face to set the angle. By not going 'true' vertical, you could set angles > 45 and still provide a stable(non-sliding) face for the 'device' to set upon.

Clamp the bar to the rip fence.