Shopsmith Forums

bffulgham wrote:Dusty,
Nope, nothing really "wrong" with the table. I just think one can get a whole lot more bang for the buck with a DIY router table.
Shipwright and DB5 have come up with the best space-saver models that I've seen. And, they pretty much solved the "too small" issue by being able to use the aux and main tables.

Just for the sake of clarity: the Shopsmith Auxillary Table (extension table) and the Main Table can be used in conjunction with the router table discussed in the beginning of this thread.

Call it either a second carriage or a supplemental carriage jig (which is what I had).

Since I installed the double lift option, I thought to try to use the PP to rout some molding. Ok, being honest, it gave me a chance to defer current work and design and build another 'jig.'

The most obvious drawback is the short distance between the quill and the carriage, but there is lots of room to the back. I'm almost done and will give a report on how it works. For this project there is enough room.

Forrest

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Thanks for the info. I have some extra laminated MDF from an old desk we had. I could cut it down and install the t strip and my own fence. This would be a summer project.

While I really like your projected images with the software it doesn't really translate to reality.

As an example, the engineers who designed the Pontiac that required the engine be removed before the spark plugs could be replaced. Worked on paper but was a disaster.

It looked pretty on paper but didn't work. Your drawings are nice but have you tested them? That's the problem with drawings. Good concept, but may not work.

I really do like your drawings with this software and would like you to design a storage unit for me under my 510. I've pondered it and have some ideas but not the expertise.

So, this is a critique and an accolade. How do you handle those mixed messages

I have found that properly done SketchUp (specifically, looking for interference fit) to translate excellently into the shop.

My first was this 32" DIA Lazy Susan for parties
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This Advent Calendar for my grandchildren was VERY complex and required strong accuracy, but it went as planned from SketchUp to the shop
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And now I am in the process of building a Wine Glass Cabinet. All of the parts were cut first to the SketchUp dimensions (there are lots of parts also) and so far they have been born out
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So I am happy with CAD software. You just have to use it correctly in my opinion.

Forrest

forrestb wrote:I have found that properly done SketchUp (specifically, looking for interference fit) to translate excellently into the shop.

Forrest

ABSOLUTELY!

As Forrest says, one of the great benefits of sketchup is finding dimension errors before making the cut list. When designing my woodworking bench I "built" it in Sketchup. As I was assembling it in virtual reality it found 3 small but significant errors. Though two would have meant some loss of time while I recut them, one would have meant finding another piece longer then the one I would have cut. Even making modified auxiliary tables using the Kreg pocket screw jig plans benefitted because I found that by reducing the leg length by 1/2" I could use three 2x4s with minimal waste rather than four and a large surplus of pieces.

But I believe part of it is some people build by plans and design while others see a picture in their head and start construction. I've had both types work for me and each has it's benefits (and draw backs).

Personally, I like the idea that I can brainstorm the idea, then construct it in SketchUp, finding most of the flaws in thinking. Many of my jigs are built that way. However, the idea for the micro adjuster for moving the fence small amounts was just a quick idea made without benefit of drawings or details. Afterward, I went back to SketchUp to refine and redesign, mainly to see if I could build it better.

Then there is the fun and whimsy of design like my adjustable height Mark V. Not practical, nor reliable, nor realistically feasible, but fun as a mental exercise.

When one builds sandcastles, are they in the air or on the beach? Someplace that exists in reality or in our mind? Planned to the last detail or what ever makes us smile? No matter the answer, it's all good.

Be well,
Ben

Yes, I have one of those tables and love it. It's flat, it's slick especially when waxed, it can be installed to the inside of the mark V (like shown in the add) or outside (there is more room to slide in the router if it is set up to the outside), it stores nicely and can be used as an extra table when stored. I leave the router base attached to the table, but slide out the router when not in use.

My fence is a lot like the drawing shown by forrest (above)
The fence was made for an old table, but fits nicely on the Shopsmith table. There are slots in the bottom of the fence that will hold screws that go into added threaded inserts I put in the table.

I finished the router table designed to use the SS PP instead of a separate router. I am happy with the results after the first profile routing at 9000 rpm.

This is a front and rear view of the table installed on the main table and aux table supported by legs. Note that the fine adjustment jig conceived by a forum member in case I need to make a fence adjustment.

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This is the profile in mahogany and it is very clean and sharp.

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And I was VERY happy with the DC port. There is not much cleanup to do.

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If anyone is interested, I have a SketchUp file that I used. Any adjustments made were to use what I already had in the 'shop' except for the Rockler Dual Track. Send me a PM and I will e-mail it to you. It's in SketchUp 14.0.4899 which may not work with older versions.

Forrest

A really good looking setup, Forrest!

Although the router table I posted worked well enough for the immediate project, a little reflection caused me to turn the fence around, add 2 more Dual Tracks, move the Miter Bar and slide the prior Dual Tracks back. I will probably remove them but keep them around for another project.

Obviously, my prior approach limited the size of stock that could be handled.

In turning the existing fence I am still able to place the Fence face right over the SS spindle centerline and can move it all the way to the outer diameter of the bit. I can now use the Fence to creep up to a full cut and leave the spindle locked.

I might try to move the 2 short Dual Tracks back and move the Fence miter bars to match,

I will make a sled for cross-grain routing and use the miter bar track.

The only caveat I see is to set up for a full cut with the bit and mark the table is some fashion to know when you have reached full cut.

Forrest

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