Shopsmith Forums

JPG, I asked about removing paper disc not frying bacon and eggs!!!!LOL
Since I posted I have had some time to start to go through and play with some of the accessories. The 57 greenie stuff had 2 things with it a tube of SS grease according to the box for the quill lubing, kinda of a rust red color, and a can of sanding disc adhesive. I am guessing bought about the same time as the SS based on the all the boxes are the same color and condition. In the process of changing upper spindle bearings the male splines have the same color grease residue on it, should I relube the spline with some of that grease? It is still good and has a nice grease consistency.
As good as SS stuff is, yesterday I opened the can of sanding disc adhesive, a dried layer about 1/32 thick layer was on top and pealed right off, basically the same as some dried latex paint in a old can of latex paint. The rest of the can was about 3/4 full, seems to be okay, but the can sez do not let get below 32*, which I think it may have at one time, all a machine grey color, has a unpleasant odor to it, but maybe the odor of it originally, do you think it is still good?
Back to my previous question here, why are some of you unhappy with the H&L conversion kits?

I have nine sanding disks.

3 Steel Old Style
3 Aluminum bought off eBay cheap
3 Conical Disks

I consider three disks to be bare minimum to have if your using adhesive disks. I don't have the Hook & Loop. I don't do any sharpening with mine so I might want more.

I haven't used the conical disks enough to really have an opinion. I got a deal on some about the same time I realized you could join plywood edges with them.

None of my disks are the ones that fit a 520. I guess it's time for me to start watching foe some of these on eBay.

rbursek wrote:JPG, I asked about removing paper disc not frying bacon and eggs!!!!LOL
Since I posted I have had some time to start to go through and play with some of the accessories. The 57 greenie stuff had 2 things with it a tube of SS grease according to the box for the quill lubing, kinda of a rust red color, and a can of sanding disc adhesive. I am guessing bought about the same time as the SS based on the all the boxes are the same color and condition. In the process of changing upper spindle bearings the male splines have the same color grease residue on it, should I relube the spline with some of that grease? It is still good and has a nice grease consistency.
As good as SS stuff is, yesterday I opened the can of sanding disc adhesive, a dried layer about 1/32 thick layer was on top and pealed right off, basically the same as some dried latex paint in a old can of latex paint. The rest of the can was about 3/4 full, seems to be okay, but the can sez do not let get below 32*, which I think it may have at one time, all a machine grey color, has a unpleasant odor to it, but maybe the odor of it originally, do you think it is still good?
Back to my previous question here, why are some of you unhappy with the H&L conversion kits?

Probably. As it 'dries' it will change to black. That smell is essentially latex odor. I have a can also over 50 yrs old. Has not been open for about 40. So maybe it is still salvagable!

You nailed my 'unhappiness'. Too soft. My blue Yep was meant to say so 4 posts back.

JPG, missed it, got it, I went right to the AZ bacon and egg recipe!!!LOL
What about greasing the male splines B4 I put it back together? Or did I miss that too?

rbursek wrote:JPG, missed it, got it, I went right to the AZ bacon and egg recipe!!!LOL

'Stuff' happens. I can be less than self evident at times. Too much sly humor too often.

I fergit to comment on the red grease. I have 0 experience with it, but since the greenie's splines are metal to metal contact some kind of grease is appropriate. My 10E came with what seemed a pint of grease on the splines and showed no appreciable wear.

I don't know about the Mark series, but lubing the splines on the ER is an easy process. On an UNPLUGGED machine;

Advance the quill a couple inches and lock it there. Pack a teaspoon (guesstimate here) of grease into the left end of the drive shaft. Block the grease inside with a finger, and slowly let the quill retract, and force the grease forward into the splines.

steve

[quote="skou"]I don't know about the Mark series, but lubing the splines on the ER is an easy process. On an UNPLUGGED machine]

The Mark series does not need greasing.

skou wrote: OK, another question, does anyone have any ideas on fixing a warped aluminum disc? It's off about 5 or 10 thousandths, and may be corrosion instead of warpage. If I had a tailstock "spindle" adapter, I'd just run one disc against the other one. steve

I couldn't handle a disk on my metal lathe, but you could probably find someone - perhaps a machine shop - that could. I'd have to think about trying to true it on the SS. You really need a slide rest that can firmly anchor a cutter and move across the face at a controlled depth of cut. I'd find a machine shop.

I'd not worry about 1/100th of an inch.

I have an aluminun sanding disk and a steel disk. Both with velcro H&L. Love both of them. I make many toys, bandsaw boxes and some furniture. I always do a rough sanding before dry fitting. I have a lot of rough sawn wood and I sand it all down to a smooth finish with the H&L disks.

Now, I have some sharpening stones that have been used. Thinking of putting them on a shaft and on the opposite side of the headstock for sharpening chisels. The speed is right. Curious as to thoughts.