Shopsmith Forums

If worried about coming loose, a drop or 2 of Blue LocTight would work. Blue LT does not act as a glue as Red LT does, but acts as a thread filler and prevents casual movement, without needing a deactivator to release its hold like Red LT does.

rbursek wrote:If worried about coming loose, a drop or 2 of Blue LocTight would work. Blue LT does not act as a glue as Red LT does, but acts as a thread filler and prevents casual movement, without needing a deactivator to release its hold like Red LT does.

True, but I would not use it there. They are difficult enough to loosen as is!;)

rbursek wrote:If worried about coming loose, a drop or 2 of Blue LocTight would work. Blue LT does not act as a glue as Red LT does, but acts as a thread filler and prevents casual movement, without needing a deactivator to release its hold like Red LT does.

I'm not too worried about them coming loose, the old ones needed a hex socket and breaker bar to get out. I was more interested in how tight they should be installed and still do the job. Snug, tight or TIGHT!! Too many race engines royaly screwed because when installing accessories, the mechanic (using that term loosely) thought the tighter the better, though I'm not too worried about warping the wedges.

The run up run down testing is because a good friend had a blade or two take an unwanted and unexpected flight. It was on a Jet so I will presume the blades were not tapered like SS.

Be well,
Ben

My blades are not tapered, but the holding gib is, but not a reverse taper. What goes in must come out!

rbursek wrote:My blades are not tapered, but the holding gib is, but not a reverse taper. What goes in must come out!

Sure about that?:p

The wedges are square on the side away from the blade, and tapered to match the blade angle on the blade side.

The bottom of the blades are thicker than the cutting edge.

The taper allows the wedges to 'come out', but prevents the blades from doing so.