Shopsmith Forums

rbursek wrote:I machine wood, not cut it!!! A 64th is only .0156, if you need or want your wood working that close you better get machine tools, not tools for wood working. IMO

Ah, but the Model 10 series is designed to machine metal. Like your Mark-Xs.

Model 10. Built Mark Seven. Twice. (MkII and Mk7.)

steve

pieceseeker wrote:The easy way is to just pick up another SS that has a disc with it.

Done that too many times! Got 4 of them now, but only 3 discs.

Since I don't have the SWMBO issue, but lack storage, I may do this again. (You'd be surprised just how little room a broken-down 10 E model takes up.)

steve

Proust Skou!!! Same here!!! Good excuse to get another one just for an other disc!!!!! Just remembered, no SO, I dont need an excuse, just a want!!
I found Oophs and Goof Off works even better, just keep changing clothes, the old adhesive seems to clog the weave and then does not exchange the adhesive as well. I bet a white scotch bright pad soaked with it would work really well, but 2.00 a 6x9 pad!!

A HSS bowl gouge and/or straight scraper should be able to true your disk, if done carefully. I was able to turn down some aluminum bar stock with a HSS skew chisel. It worked well, but be careful of catches.

Mike

Mike907 wrote:A HSS bowl gouge and/or straight scraper should be able to true your disk, if done carefully. I was able to turn down some aluminum bar stock with a HSS skew chisel. It worked well, but be careful of catches.

Mike

Mike, for some reason skew chisels make me nervous. Especially on aluminum!

Of to go and visit Captain Eddie!

steve

Steve, I suspect that you'd get acceptable results by spinning either the flat disc (with sandpaper), or the "workpiece disc". However:

If spinning the flat disk(with sandpaper), any angular misalignment between the spindle and the tailstock arbor would leave you with a corresponding amount of runout on the workpiece disc.

Spinning the workpiece disk against the fixed disk (with sandpaper) would eliminate the workpiece runout; any angular misalignment would merely impart a slight conical shape to the workpiece disc. However, any imperfections in the active sandpaper sector would transfer to the face profile of the workpiece.

Want to get really anal about it? Mount a second headstock backwards on the tubes, such that the discs are facing one another, and spin both. Run them at different speeds to minimize any standing waves that might result from vibration.

BuckeyeDennis wrote:Steve, I suspect that you'd get acceptable results by spinning either the flat disc (with sandpaper), or the "workpiece disc". However:

If spinning the flat disk(with sandpaper), any angular misalignment between the spindle and the tailstock arbor would leave you with a corresponding amount of runout on the workpiece disc.

Spinning the workpiece disk against the fixed disk (with sandpaper) would eliminate the workpiece runout]really[/U] anal about it? Mount a second headstock backwards on the tubes, such that the discs are facing one another, and spin both. Run them at different speeds to minimize any standing waves that might result from vibration.

YES!!!! Mount the second headstock on yer tube extension!:D

I like that idea!!! 2 opposing HS, you could put a TS blade on both and have a table mounted, cant think of the hand held trade name tool, that can cut anything, with the 2 blades.

BuckeyeDennis wrote:Steve, I suspect that you'd get acceptable results by spinning either the flat disc (with sandpaper), or the "workpiece disc". However:

If spinning the flat disk(with sandpaper), any angular misalignment between the spindle and the tailstock arbor would leave you with a corresponding amount of runout on the workpiece disc.

Spinning the workpiece disk against the fixed disk (with sandpaper) would eliminate the workpiece runout]really[/U] anal about it? Mount a second headstock backwards on the tubes, such that the discs are facing one another, and spin both. Run them at different speeds to minimize any standing waves that might result from vibration.

Funny you should mention that, Alan. (Sorry, I'm listening to "It's 5 o:clock somewhere.") I just happen to have all the pieces!

However, if doing it this way, wouldn't I want the headstocks on different axes? (That is the plural of axis, not a big hatchet.) that would male more of a random sand on the sanded disc?

Oh, and doing it this way, I don't need to order a tailstock arbor.

Dennis, THANKS!!

steve

JPG40504 wrote:YES!!!! Mount the second headstock on yer tube extension!:D

That would let me get different axes. (See my comment about big hatchets above.) I just don't connect the extension. It is built to be free-standing, after all.

You guys are the best!

steve