Shopsmith Forums

Thanks, Charlese! I'm following you now I think. I have shaping and edge work in mind more so than actually routing (dadoes and patterns, etc), So that's why I'm thinking of going with a split fence rig though setting up offsets can be a real pain. If I stop myself and think about it, this whole project is really more exercise than practical - I may hardly even use it when I'm done. I'm having fun doing this though and that's really the point. Right?

Routing in general is all new to me too whether it's hand-held or table mounted, so I have a lot to learn. Even the basics! I read about it and I watch You Tube, but practical application finds me scratching my head wondering where to start sometimes. It also seems like more time is spent on set up and making jigs than is spent on the actual project. Speaking of jigs, I recently bought an Incra I-Box jig and the Incra Hinge Crafter and I've set it up for use on my router table - that's where a lot of my wood working energy is go to focus in the near future. I also finally cut a miter slot in to the table using my stacked dado on the table saw. I ruined my laminate top though because I neglected to use a backer to protect it from the saw teeth. I can save it though if I ever get an aluminum miter slot insert.

I think my micro-adjuster can be used for other applications as well. I don't know what just yet other than maybe for a router edge guide or even portable circular saw edge guide.

Here is some more ideas to ponder. If you spring load the adjuster it will make it a little easier to hold the setting while you make minor adjustments and clamp it in place.
Paul

masonsailor2 wrote:Here is some more ideas to ponder. If you spring load the adjuster it will make it a little easier to hold the setting while you make minor adjustments and clamp it in place.
Paul

Thanks, Paul. I like your table set up; it has a crisp, clean and professional look. I especially like your adjuster rig! Everything but the hardware is handmade (presumably by you) down to the knob on the main screw - nice! My adjuster is spring loaded, but I'm using compression springs on external posts. It looks like you have extension springs rigged internally; I hadn't thought of that. It makes the unit much cleaner. I noticed you used hardwood - is it maple? I have some reclaimed pallet hardwoods, some rescued from the dumpster mahogany cut offs, and some cherry sitting in the shop while I ponder what to make with it. Maybe I'll make my final out of some of that pallet wood - I think some is either ash or maple. Another thing I noticed and hadn't thought of is the dial guage. I was thinking linear scales on tape or metal, but wasn't sure how to mount it. I think I will add a mount to use my dial guage (which sits nearly forgotten in a cabinet).

V/R,
Craig

Yes I made it out of maple and the knob is turned on the SS. I put a crosshatch in the middle of the knob with a darker wood to be enable to judge the movement of the knob better. 1/4 turn, 1/2 turn etc. The fence is a two level design which are indexed to each other and then the lower unit is indexed to the table both by miter slots. There are two sets of clamping knobs. This allows you to do quick gross movement of both layers such as retracting the fence for bit change . Once the bottom layer is clamped down the top layer which has the fence attached can be fine adjusted with the adjustment unit. This also allows for quick removal of the entire unit leaving an unobstructed table top for routering large freehand pieces. For the adjustment screw I used a fine thread 1/2 " stud I cut from a piece of all thread. I have tried using standard coarse threads in the past and it did not give me the control I needed.
Paul.