rbursek wrote:Ed, I did a story stick in the right side "box" on the top and bottom, front and rear. the same!!! Mind you, it was not the $300.00 Incra set, still waiting for my order to ship!!! NOT
Totally STUMPED!!!!!
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Try pulling a tape from each corner of the entire box.
Gene
'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton
'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton
The top and bottom may measure the same from let to right and the left and right sides may also measure the same from top to bottom, but if the corners are NOT 90 deg then what you have is a paralellogram and not a rectangle.
You can still glue it up but before the glue sets put a clamp across the longer diagonal and pull the box square. That's when the diagonals are equal. Then clamp the rest of the box until the glue is fully cured.
Bill V
You can still glue it up but before the glue sets put a clamp across the longer diagonal and pull the box square. That's when the diagonals are equal. Then clamp the rest of the box until the glue is fully cured.
Bill V
- JPG
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You alluded to not using of a precision measuring device(the $300 one).
What DID you use? I think Ed(the Tampa one) hit close with the parallax and sliding zero hook.
Left side/right side(inside and outside)/partition are a lot of measurements that if only slightly off could accumulate.
I realize this is like being a one armed paper hanger, but measure starting at 10" on the rule instead of the end while being sure to eliminate parallax and looking for 1/32" deviations. I think you will discover the cause.
1/8" over 4' is close to 1/4%(0.00260417:D).
What DID you use? I think Ed(the Tampa one) hit close with the parallax and sliding zero hook.
Left side/right side(inside and outside)/partition are a lot of measurements that if only slightly off could accumulate.
I realize this is like being a one armed paper hanger, but measure starting at 10" on the rule instead of the end while being sure to eliminate parallax and looking for 1/32" deviations. I think you will discover the cause.
1/8" over 4' is close to 1/4%(0.00260417:D).
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Now that you have the "measurements" it is time to put your ruler away. Seriously!!! Take the box off of its stand nd lay it on the floor on it's back. Now do what Ed in Tampa said - using a couple of sliding sticks, fit them into each of the two squares. If there is still a large off-square on the right side, put clamps diagonally across the unit to pull it square. You may have to split the difference between the two boxes.
Oh yeah! after you get the box on the floor, remove all but one screw from each side. Take the back off until you get the box square- then put it back on as the last thing. While the back is off, use you sliding sticks to check the trueness of the back of the halves as well as the fronts.
Your error may be in the way the joints fit. Perhaps one rabbit is slightly deeper than another. maybe it's the way the back fits. Maybe the top and the bottom have a cutting or rabbit error.
In woodworking, after the parts are made, assembly is called "fitting" for a good reason.
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... tory+stick
Oh yeah! after you get the box on the floor, remove all but one screw from each side. Take the back off until you get the box square- then put it back on as the last thing. While the back is off, use you sliding sticks to check the trueness of the back of the halves as well as the fronts.
Your error may be in the way the joints fit. Perhaps one rabbit is slightly deeper than another. maybe it's the way the back fits. Maybe the top and the bottom have a cutting or rabbit error.
In woodworking, after the parts are made, assembly is called "fitting" for a good reason.
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... tory+stick
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
- JPG
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Agree totally!charlese wrote:Now that you have the "measurements" it is time to put your ruler away. Seriously!!! Take the box off of its stand nd lay it on the floor on it's back. Now do what Ed in Tampa said - using a couple of sliding sticks, fit them into each of the two squares. If there is still a large off-square on the right side, put clamps diagonally across the unit to pull it square. You may have to split the difference between the two boxes.
Oh yeah! after you get the box on the floor, remove all but one screw from each side. Take the back off until you get the box square- then put it back on as the last thing. While the back is off, use you sliding sticks to check the trueness of the back of the halves as well as the fronts.
Your error may be in the way the joints fit. Perhaps one rabbit is slightly deeper than another. maybe it's the way the back fits. Maybe the top and the bottom have a cutting or rabbit error.
In woodworking, after the parts are made, assembly is called "fitting" for a good reason.
But then he would not know the exact reason 'why'.
Inquiring minds want to know in order to prevent recurrence.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- Ed in Tampa
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Wait Wait Waitrbursek wrote:Ed, I did a story stick in the right side "box" on the top and bottom, front and rear. the same!!! Mind you, it was not the $300.00 Incra set, still waiting for my order to ship!!! NOT
Your picture show the center divider is square, but the right side is off by 1/8 at the square and a full 1/4 off top to bottom. Now you are saying you put a story stick in the right side and it is the same top and bottom???? If the center is square that can't be.
Unless the picture of the right side with the square showing 1/8 inch out is setting on something that is making the square out of square while the box is in square. Or the square your using to measure square is out of square itself.
Have you measured the diagonal from the center bottom to top right and bottom right to top center. How about making a line on the bottom 4 inched in from the inside edge and another line 3 inch up the right most side then measure the diagonal between them it should be 5 inches. Do this the whole way around the right side. If any aren't 5 inches then the story stick can't be same top and bottom if the center board is actually square to the bottom of the case.
Ed in Tampa
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- edflorence
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That would be my guess. How were the rabbets cut? If using the TS, down pressing featherboards help to keep all the same depth. At this point I would say just pull the box into square as has been described and carry on. As long as the drawers slide you are OK.charlese wrote: Your error may be in the way the joints fit. Perhaps one rabbit is slightly deeper than another.
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... tory+stick
Ed
Idaho Panhandle
Mark 5 of various vintages, Mini with reversing motor, bs, dc3300, jointer, increaser, decreaser
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- JPG
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Go get yer framing square! the one with 16 and 24 inch tongues.
I will let you pick the narrow tongue width(1 5/8 or 1 1/2).
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
The next case or carcase may be off square in a different way. Woodworking just happens that way. That's why "fitting" is necessary. If one desires to find the exact reason why, that woodworker may drive himself nuts with measurements. I've seen that syndrome happen right here with forum members. If a furniture project does come out perfectly square or fitting, it is a blessing, but don't count on it in the future:(JPG40504 wrote:Agree totally!
But then he would not know the exact reason 'why'.
Inquiring minds want to know in order to prevent recurrence.
The only way to avoid distortions is to first obtain dimensionally stable wood then use machines that you are positive will cut to the nearest thousanth inch and allow cuttings to be to that measurement. Since such machines are not available, despite the claims of some, the best we can do is with hand planes and sandpaper:p .
There is a time to let go of the engineering and go to woodworking.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
- BuckeyeDennis
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Agreed. But we most likely need to debate the exact time! ]NO[/B]. I freak my kids out by remaining totally calm and composed on any rollercoaster. Amused, yes. Fascinated by the engineering and construction details, yes. Frightened, absolutely not. I have total faith that it was engineered to be less dangerous than my 2-hour car trip to get there in the first place.charlese wrote:
There is a time to let go of the engineering and go to woodworking.
Wood has well-researched and documented mechanical properties. It can be subjected to engineering rigor, just like anything else in the physical world. Should it be? Absolutely, if you are designing roller coasters. But if you are doing woodworking as a hobby, the correct answer depends totally on whether you find that method to be fun and satisfying!
But I will gladly concede that wood in particular, and woodworking tools in general, are less stable and repeatable than metalworking, when it comes to dimensional accuracy. And also that when working with wood, hand-fitting is a fine method for achieving better and more satisfying accuracy than can be achieved by process control alone.
And I will further opine that I have never seen a metal sculpture that I found anywhere near as appealing as a well-crafted, handmade object that highlights the natural beauty of the wood itself.