Shopsmith Forums

forrestb wrote:JPG, if you are referring to the fox wedged tenon, I will pass! I obviously have enough trouble when I can see things.

http://sawdustmaking.com/woodjoints/mortisetenon.htm#f158 talks about that in Fig. 158.

Forrest

I was indeed.

Great reference! Thanks for the link!

Ah! --- But the Fox Tenon is not a thu tenon. Seems to me if making a "Dovetailed" thru tenon with two slots cut into the tenon, it would make sense to drive the wedges above and below the tenon rather than into the cut slots. This should close the slots that also could be glued. Any part of a wedge sticking out past the tenon can be sawn off.

My only concern would b that u r dependent only on the shear strength of the glue which will degrade over time. The 'classic' wedged tenon is not subject to that.
Forrest
Good point Ed. I thought I had a close fit on the edges but may not have paid close enough attention. B sure to next time!

As Ed pointed out, the through mortise might be too large, especially on the inside (the side where the stile is, opposite the side you hammer the wedges in). Notice it is shown as 1" in the diagram, exactly the same as the height of the tennon in its un-wedged state. That leaves no room for the cracking without doing something drastic to the mortised piece.

No idea if this helps, but it is what came to mind for me.

edit - I hadn't read your post just above this one carefully enough. Seems this is completely redundant!

Rather than re-build this rather complicated piece on top:
[ATTACH]25658[/ATTACH]

I decided to repair the split
[ATTACH]25656[/ATTACH]

with four mahogany inlays:
[ATTACH]25657[/ATTACH]

(the darker color at the base of the inlays is water)



After the practice before this final 'fix' and the final version, I have gained the confidence to tackle a piece of Federal period furniture. Now if I can only find the time!:rolleyes:

Forrest

Nice save. Nobody but you (and those who read this thread) will ever know it wasn't part of the original artistic design!

algale wrote:Nice save. Nobody but you (and those who read this thread) will ever know it wasn't part of the original artistic design!

Indeed. And I'd bet that 90% would find the "enhanced" design to be even more attractive and desirable.

Forrest, are you working in Oak?

I couldn't get your attachments to open and it sent me an administration note - sorta like getting sent to the principle's office.

Windsor chairmakers use wedged tenons to secure the legs in the seat. The tenons go through the seat and are wedged from the seating side. Since the legs are usually maple they seldom, if ever, crack down the leg. One just uses a hand saw to cut a kerf 3 quarters the depth of the tenon. Places some Elmer's white glue on the tenon and drives the wedge until you get a change in sound. It's a feel/sound thing - you never over drive the wedge.

The bigger worry is cracking the pine seat. If you wedge across the grain of the seat this will prevent cracking it when driving the wedge in. I learned to make the wedges using a draw knife. Very fast way to do it.

In any event, I got to thinking about Oak's ability (especially Red Oak) to split and wondered about the material.

Just saw the pictures. It doesn't look like Red Oak. Thanks.

Except for the dowel which is white oak.

It's all unfinished (by request) hard maple to be 6 small cutting boards and stand.

[ATTACH]25664[/ATTACH]

Waiting for small rubber feet for the bottom to finish. I have wet everything down and will clean up the raised grain tomorrow.

I have told the prospective owner that if the plain sawn boards start to warp I will re-do them in quarter sawn. Would have liked to do that first but she was in a hurry (her 20 year old set was falling apart) and it was not available locally.

Forrest