Shopsmith Forums

JPG40504 wrote:That is because they want to sell a conical disk.]And the screws were being improperly used to square the fence to the blade/miter slot.[/B]

Why on earth did they add the one on the left anyway?

Are you talking about the set screws in the 510 fence???

I've said this before, but this forum is fantastic. Ask a question and sit back and watch the discussion unfold as different answers are offered and discussed. I learn a lot. One thing I learned right away is I have to go and really read HTWWFE cover to cover. Or whatever the online equivalent is.

I can see how the edge sanding method would work, but it seems for some reason less precise than the conical disk. I think that's just me, though. No reason it should be.

The one that holds two at once - that's something I could make easily enough. Too bad it wouldn't be as easy to make one that holds three.

What about just using the depth measurement from a caliper? Is that too sloppy? Or making a three point screw jig like Bill Mayo suggested elsewhere, with a screw on each end and one in the middle. I'd simply find something the right size to move between the screws to set them even. I could make it like shopsmith's three dial indicator setup since I have to take it all apart anyhow.

Anyhow, I'll post what I try when I do - it just got bumped down the list a bit by some other stuff that I'd overlooked but will happen pretty soon.

dusty wrote:Are you talking about the set screws in the 510 fence???

No, it only has one screw The 500 fence and some that use the same casting. The screw on the right I understand. The one on the other side no.

Every 510 fence that I obtained used were set by use of the one set screw rather than the correct way.

Same for band saw fence.

It is easy to assume that is what the set screws are for. Easy, but not correct.

fitzhugh wrote:
I can see how the edge sanding method would work, but it seems for some reason less precise than the conical disk. I think that's just me, though. No reason it should be.

The one that holds two at once - that's something I could make easily enough. Too bad it wouldn't be as easy to make one that holds three.

This might help:
http://www.woodshoptips.com/tips/052404/index.htm



All that said, the conical disk and SS sharpening jig works very good, I got mine gently used from eBay for $60 for both. Has paid for itself already in time, convenience, and sharpening costs. I think the SS jig holds three jointer blades at once, but so far I've only used it for my planer blades.

fitzhugh wrote: . . .

I can see how the edge sanding method would work, but it seems for some reason less precise than the conical disk. I think that's just me, though. No reason it should be.

The difference is in the direction of the grind.

With the conical disk, the grind is parallel to the edge of the blade, and occurs at a narrow line.

With the flat disc, the grind is an arc and may be over a greater area(hence the reason to feed quill gradually).

FYI
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?p=77390&postcount=25

I send knives out, shouldn't be expensive.

Look here for example:

http://www.planerknivesdirect.com/sharpening.php

fitzhugh wrote:I've said this before, but this forum is fantastic. Ask a question and sit back and watch the discussion unfold as different answers are offered and discussed. I learn a lot. One thing I learned right away is I have to go and really read HTWWFE cover to cover. Or whatever the online equivalent is.

I can see how the edge sanding method would work, but it seems for some reason less precise than the conical disk. I think that's just me, though. No reason it should be.

The one that holds two at once - that's something I could make easily enough. Too bad it wouldn't be as easy to make one that holds three.

What about just using the depth measurement from a caliper? Is that too sloppy? Or making a three point screw jig like Bill Mayo suggested elsewhere, with a screw on each end and one in the middle. I'd simply find something the right size to move between the screws to set them even. I could make it like shopsmith's three dial indicator setup since I have to take it all apart anyhow.

Anyhow, I'll post what I try when I do - it just got bumped down the list a bit by some other stuff that I'd overlooked but will happen pretty soon.

It is good that you do not mind being bombarded by information that you did not ask for. It is good because that seems to be what you will get when you ask a question here.

It is bad, however, if after getting all those pages of information you have not gotten an answer for the original question.

Have you learned what you need for setting the blades (after they are sharpened) back into the cutter head? If not, ask again and maybe the next time you'll get an answer.

I'll throw in by 2-bits worth. If you are going to sharpen your own jointer and planer blades, I highly recommend an investment that will last a long time and give you good sharp blades each time.

I now do have a much better idea of the options and can see what works best. I would like the disk and even better the disk and the jig you linked to - have to wait for cash at the moment since I've got other parts to buy first.

I'm hand planing all the wood for my workbench these days and am half glad I don't have the planer set up (and a little glad I don't have a jointer). I made the plane I use most on the project. I'll take pride in doing it all by hand. After that I think the planer will get a fair amount of use.