Shopsmith Forums

Dusty, that style of switch would work very well but I would prefer a 20 amp switch for the Shopsmith. The magnetic switch would also be a very nice safety feature as Paul said but would probably add a lot to the price.

dusty wrote:Paul,

Does this fill the bill? This could be used with Doc's application as well.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?Offerings_ID=17401&TabSelect=Details

Does anyone know if it is magnetic? If I could find a 20 AMP magnitic version they would have my money tonight.

paulmcohen wrote:Does anyone know if it is magnetic? If I could find a 20 AMP magnitic version they would have my money tonight.

If you go to the grizzly site and search for magnetic switch they have a page of them.

It is really a good idea to have these but I've put off doing that just because of the $$. I think around here by code commerical shops and such have to have them. When I would do designs for labs for the company I worked for all machines had to have them as well as a central point to knock down all power to the outlets in the lab.

I have had one time when I was working at night in my shop that the power went off. I had no lights and was in the middle of cutting a hunk of plywood... I wasn't sure what to do... if the power comes back on the saw is going to start up again and you are in a high percent kick-back situation. What would you do in the dark??

Ed

I think that I wood (sp) lower the blade/raise the table.

Hey, Tim - while you are doing all that, reach over and turn off the switch too.

and you are in a high percent kick-back situation. What would you do in the dark??I wasn't sure what to do... if the power comes back on the saw is going to start up

Simply lean forward and tap the crossbar with your shin......Done. That's the beauty of that "David Marks Kick Switch".....No fishing for the switch or fumbling with your foot.....which BTW, those older dust collector floor switches were highly frowned on as substitutes....But, I'll confess to using them.

BTW....I looked at my current "kick" switches and see no ratings....Must be on back, if at all. These older style Rockler switches have performed without a flaw. No trouble with amperage.The new ones with the paddle should work fine.

Doc

Dusty
Nice design. However I have one comment (didn't everyone expect that?).
With your design you can move the switch around and that can be convenient but I worry about emergencies. If you have to turn the machine off fast you sure don't want to have to think about where I put the switch.

I like Doc's design but I would like the bar and the switch to sit flush with the front of the SS (storage limitations).
I'm think something like Doc's arrangement but with the switch mounted slightly back of flush with the legs and a flat steel bar that is flush running between the legs of the SS.

You would probably have to swing your leg forward to turn it off, but I think this would work.

I agree the switch should be a 20 amp switch and magnetic would be good. But magnetic switches have their own good and bad points. Some magnetic switches will turn on if bumped hard enough. The idea of mounting one on something as mobile as the Shopsmith could make that danger very real. Your rolling your Shopsmith around and bump into the workbench all of sudden the Shopsmith starts.
Ed

Ed in Tampa wrote:I agree the switch should be a 20 amp switch and magnetic would be good. But magnetic switches have their own good and bad points. Some magnetic switches will turn on if bumped hard enough. The idea of mounting one on something as mobile as the Shopsmith could make that danger very real. Your rolling your Shopsmith around and bump into the workbench all of sudden the Shopsmith starts.
Ed

I am going to look into Grizzly, I have been suprised once by someone leaving my Shopsmith on and unplugged, and once by a power failure. Both times a magnitic switch would have solved the issue, I never move the Shopsmith while plugged in and mostly leave it unplugged when I leave for the night so I don't see bumping it as an issue.

I have the Shopsmith accessory shelf so the knee bar as shown would not work but if I mounted a Rockler type switch on the shelf it might come close.

If a "Safety Switch" is what you are striving for - Doc's approach is far superior. I wasn't, I was striving for a convenience factor. Actually, the switch panel was an after thought of how I might utilize the harvested 510 rail assemblies that I came up with.

The Rockler switch could be utilzed to provide a little more of the "Emergency Switch" approach.

As for the 20 amp switch - you guys all lose me on this one unless you change out the switch that is mounted "IN" the Shopsmith. An add on 20 amp switch does not change the line handling characteristics.

If you want real 20 amp capacity - you have to go for it end-to-end. Plugs, wires, breakers, switches - the whole nine yards.

Having completed due diligence, I have placed a Paddle Switch (Safety Switch) at the top of my 'will purchase soon' list.

It is a safety switch (easy off) as well as being capable of 20 amps. What made it really attractive is that only costs $12.85. I have chosen from the Grizzly catalog part number H8243.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/h8243