Shopsmith Forums

Thanks again fellas. I checked the motor and decided to change the front bearing...could feel the ball bearings and didn't like it. Then I purchased that new Irwin Marples thin kerf 24-T. WHAM! Back in action baby! But with all the reading about the sheave spring and how difficult it is to remove??? It was not to difficult to depress with my hand and remove the C-Clip. How do you measure the pounds to depress an inch, to check if it is good or not?

I don't think that the spring changes tension enough to cause a problem. Even though the machine gets lubed after a long time all of the "crud" (a technical term) will not get flushed out. It will remain and can have the result of inhibiting the smooth movement of the sheave and the full travel of the sheave.
If you cleaned the motor shaft when you changed the bearing and also polished the motor shaft you will have improved the performance. You should also have cleaned the internal bore of the floating sheave and used a liberal amount of oil during reassembly. The sheaves have to move freely along the shafts in order to work properly.
You may also want to take the idler shaft out and clean the internal bore of the idler sheave and emove all of the dirt and old oil.
Bill V

wa2crk wrote:I don't think that the spring changes tension enough to cause a problem. Even though the machine gets lubed after a long time all of the "crud" (a technical term) will not get flushed out. It will remain and can have the result of inhibiting the smooth movement of the sheave and the full travel of the sheave.
If you cleaned the motor shaft when you changed the bearing and also polished the motor shaft you will have improved the performance. You should also have cleaned the internal bore of the floating sheave and used a liberal amount of oil during reassembly. The sheaves have to move freely along the shafts in order to work properly.
You may also want to take the idler shaft out and clean the internal bore of the idler sheave and emove all of the dirt and old oil.
Bill V

Since the idler sheave does not move along the idler shaft, this is not critical, but will make it easier to remove in the future when you may need to.

Reference post #15 this thread/

larc wrote:Thanks again fellas. I checked the motor and decided to change the front bearing...could feel the ball bearings and didn't like it. Then I purchased that new Irwin Marples thin kerf 24-T. WHAM! Back in action baby! But with all the reading about the sheave spring and how difficult it is to remove??? It was not to difficult to depress with my hand and remove the C-Clip. How do you measure the pounds to depress an inch, to check if it is good or not?

I also do that, but realize that if it slips from your grasp, some not so good things might happen!:eek: Also the newer cupless(only a washer between the spring and the retaining clip) version makes this manual procedure essentially impossible.

You must never never never release it until the retaining clip is either fully on(correctly) or fully off.

JPG
I used incorrect terminilogy. The contol sheave must move freely and the floating sheave also.
Bill V

wa2crk wrote:JPG
I used incorrect terminilogy. The contol sheave must move freely and the floating sheave also.
Bill V

Yep! Those are the only ones that slide along their respective shafts. If the idler sheave and the fan sheave also moved, unexpected speeds would result.

I cleaned every thing up including the idler pulley shaft. When I tore apart the motor I pulled out enough saw dust to fill a 44 oz. soda cup. Could not beleive it. I never checked that when I purchased it 10 years ago. It runs a lot cooler now. HUH?! Amagine that! ha. Thanks to all for the help.