changing table height with auxiliary table, floating tables

chiroindixon · Post by **chiroindixon** » Fri Mar 21, 2008 9:06 am

Rick,

I agree with Chuck....and Dusty.....

I do leave my blade high because I use a sled whenever I can. My sharp, thin kerf blades still seem to do well ripping at my "fixed" height.

The stop collars act as quick indexing (for me). Should I have to loosen them for another setup (rare...again, for me) I have their positions marked on the tubes so I can very quickly reset....

As mentioned previously, the SS set up procedure is seen as a PITA and deters others, or a great versatility that others just love. I have viewed it both ways.

The non adjustable collars are not unique to SS. You can find them in a decent hardware store. (Finding one of those can be a problem). I do have the newer adjustable collar, but rarely use it. Mostly because I do the work that requires such tuning mainly on my router table.

I'll take a picture or two. Me and posting pix here has been a challenge. If you PM me with your address, I'll send them. You can post here should you chose to share.

Doc

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Fri Mar 21, 2008 11:13 am

chrispitude wrote:Hi all,

I have yet to actually use my 520 for a project (hoping to start making sawdust this weekend!) but I have a basic question in the meantime.

I see that I can make some very impressive table arrangements, what with the main table, floating table, 5' tubes, shorty tubes, two floating tables, support legs, and whatnot. It's quite a sight to see! However, let's say the need comes along to cut some thicker stock, so I need to lower the table. What's the most efficient way to get everything else to follow suit? Do I need to remove the legs, remove the floating tables, pull the tubes out, lower main table, lower aux table, reinsert tubes, reattach floating tables and legs? Have you 520 pros learned some tricks to efficiently pull this off?

For that matter, how high above the workpiece do you typically want the blade to protrude? Does this rule of thumb apply equally to both cross-cutting and ripping? Can I bring the blade high enough up to cut a 2-by, and leave it there for general usage for thin pieces too?

Thanks!

- Chris

Chris
Let me try to answer your question by first addressing the last part first.
HJow do we want the blade to protrude above the work? Is one setting high say high okay?

A saw blade is a dangerous thing, whirling or stopped. The more it is exposed the more dangerous it becomes. Most "experts" agree that the blade should only be exposed above the work piece enough to allow the deepest gullet (valley between the blade teeth) to be just slightly above the wood.

Will setting the blade above this setting effect your cut? Not really but there is more exposed saw blade see above. Will setting it lower effect your cut? It could, by allowing the gullet to clear the wood you also allow any wood that might be in the gullet to escape which makes less friction and cooler blade. If the blade can't clear itself it tend to work more and more heat is generated.

Now to the first part of your question. Yes you do have to set, align, move, remove, replace many different things each time you do a height adjustment.
There have been many hints and/or tips already given so I won't go there.

However one person did say, don't get fooled into thinking you need to keep the Shopsmith fully configured all the time. I totally agree!

90% of time I only use the main table and two floating tables (one or either side of the main). These all move together by just adjusting the main table.

If I need to more width(crosscut table) I will use the Aux table. I have rarely ( almost never) ever used the adjustable legs.

I do use roller stands for infeed or out feed if needed (I actually use Ridgid's Flip top stands which are most excellent). And these have to be adjusted up and down each time I change the height. I hate this part but I don't have to use them that much.

I have the stop collars (I got them on the advice of everyone else) and I tried them but they are now sitting in my cabinet. One thing I do use that speeds up my setup time is a have one of those aluminum clamps (Pro grip or Caio) that is flat and rigid that is about 5 feet long and spans most of my table which I use to insure each table is at the same height. I set my main to the height I want, lay the aluminum clamp on it and move any other table that needs adjusted up to that level.

My biggest problem with the stop collars and fully configuring my SS is my SS is stored beside my Radial arm saw. If I lower the tables down my SS then becomes a infeed/outfeed table for my radial arm should I want to make a "quick" cut in a long board. Also if I bring something long into my garage I can lay it across both the radial arm and SS giving me over 16 feet of long temp storage.

I hope this and all the other ideas and suggestions help you figure out how your going to setup your SS.
Ed

hb2 · Post by **hb2** » Fri Mar 21, 2008 11:18 am

I have and use one adjustable stop collar. I position it so that it just clears the table when it is rotated 90° for the drill press mode. If it is positioned higher it is bothersome to have to adjust when rotating the table vertical, and if is positioned lower it limits the inward travel of the table when in the drill press mode. With the collar in this position it is really in the stored mode as it is too deep for sawing. You really do not need it for most sawing operations. But if you do need it then it is ready to be put into service. When using a molding head or a dado or cutting partially through the wood for whatever reason the adjustable collar gives excellent depth adjustment.

I do wish I had a second one and if I did I think I would use it differently and more often. I would put one on the auxiliary table and keep it and the one that I have on the main table at a common depth that I use for general sawing. I like to use the auxiliary table and short tubes connecting it to the main table for the stiffness it adds to setup. The problem comes in when you disturb the setup for whatever reason, say conical sanding or disk sanding you have to realign the heights of both tables for a subsequent. The second collar on the auxiliary table would speed up and dumb down this process. Also when say ripping dadoes that require the fence to be positioned off the main table it would be easy to adjust both tables the exact same amount when dialing in that perfect depth.

I would suggest helping both yourself and Shopsmith out by buying two adjustable collars.

Frank

wa2crk · Post by **wa2crk** » Fri Mar 21, 2008 11:45 am

I think there may be an alternate source for the stop collars mentioned in an earlier post. Try looking at Graingers industrial supply for part 2X740.
It is listed as having an ID of 1.250 an OD of 2.0" and a width of 11/16"
with a set screw of 3/8 X 16 TPI manufactured from 12l14 cold rolled steel and is plated. Current catalog price is $3.11.
Bill

Bruce · Post by **Bruce** » Fri Mar 21, 2008 8:44 pm

Ed in Tampa wrote:90% of time I only use the main table and two floating tables (one or either side of the main). These all move together by just adjusting the main table.

I agree with you Ed, but also note that there may be times when you need the stablility that 4 posts give when using the extension table. That may be the other 10% of the time that you are referring to. When working with short stock, your method works great.

chrispitude · Post by **chrispitude** » Sat Mar 22, 2008 5:35 pm

Ed in Tampa wrote:A saw blade is a dangerous thing, whirling or stopped. The more it is exposed the more dangerous it becomes. Most "experts" agree that the blade should only be exposed above the work piece enough to allow the deepest gullet (valley between the blade teeth) to be just slightly above the wood.

Wow, I didn't know this. I always figured you wanted the teeth to just barely sneak up out of the workpiece by 1/8" or maybe 1/4". Nobody ever told me this, it was just what I figured was "safe." Fully exposing the gullet sounds like a much more sensible thing. Thanks Ed!

Ed in Tampa wrote:90% of time I only use the main table and two floating tables (one or either side of the main). These all move together by just adjusting the main table.

That's an interesting idea about using only the floating tables! That sounds like a pretty good all-around no-hassle configuration.

My auxiliary table did not move very smoothly through the holes on either side of the Shopsmith. I bought my 500 in 2000 or so for $700 shipped with no SPTs and just the usual bits (yes, yes, I know). It had been "rebuilt" which was primarily a cleaning of the mechanical bits. A part of the rebuild was a fresh coat of gray paint. Well, there was some paint overspray in the auxiliary table holes, and some slight corrosion on the auxiliary table tubes themselves (which are reused from the 500's auxiliary table).

I spent some time this afternoon getting everything fixed up. I used 120 grit emery cloth first until the worst of the bumpiness came off the tubes, then went down to 180 grit. I also sanded out the tube holes. I cleaned everything up real good with mineral spirits, let it dry, applied a coat of Trewax and buffed it out 15 minutes later. Now the auxiliary table slides beautifully on both sides! It slides so easily that if it's connected to the main table, I simply give it a light pull upwards and it will follow the main table up and down. This should make adjusting the heights much easier when the auxiliary table is in play.

Ed in Tampa wrote:I do use roller stands for infeed or out feed if needed (I actually use Ridgid's Flip top stands which are most excellent). And these have to be adjusted up and down each time I change the height. I hate this part but I don't have to use them that much.

I shamefully bought this roller stand today. I applied a coat of Penetrol to the square steel tube and I'm letting that dry. It folds up nicely and will hang flat against the wall.

- Chris

Bruce · Post by **Bruce** » Sat Mar 22, 2008 6:06 pm

I shamefully bought this roller stand today. I applied a coat of Penetrol to the square steel tube and I'm letting that dry. It folds up nicely and will hang flat against the wall.

There's no shame in saving money if it works as advertised.

a1gutterman · Post by **a1gutterman** » Sat Mar 22, 2008 6:59 pm

chrispitude wrote:...........I shamefully bought this roller stand today. I applied a coat of Penetrol to the square steel tube and I'm letting that dry. It folds up nicely and will hang flat against the wall.

- Chris

I can understand how you feel. That is why I avoid non-American made product as best as possible, and even more so, product made in most Asian countries, especially China, a country who is still in a declared war with us.

My roller stands were made in England by Record. They are very nice, and I got them about 12 years ago, for $20 each.

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Sat Mar 22, 2008 9:12 pm

Hi, Chris, Like Tim, I don't think there's anything to be ashamed about saving money. I think you will find you roller stand very helpful. The only time I need outfeed support is while ripping. For this purpose, a roller stand is an excellent, trouble free solution. Since, when ripping the boards I rip vary only from 3/4" to 1 1/4", my roller stand almost never needs adjustment. When needed, I just take it from it's resting position leaning against something, spread the legs and it is in position. - No problem!

The other day, I took advantage of a coupon received via e-mail from Harbor Freight and bought 5 ea. 6" hand screws for less than $3 each. HF is a good source for cheap tools, when you don't need precision. I'm waiting on a coupon to come for a discount on one of their small bottle jacks. This will be for use under the Mark V table when in overhead (pin) router mode.