Shopsmith Forums

JPG,
NOT to be critical of you!!!
The headstock and carriage are mounted backwards on the way tubes. ??????
The HS looks where it should be in relation to the left to right, IMHO and a few M's. Single quill to the right, PTOs to the left.

rbursek wrote:JPG,
NOT to be critical of you!!!
The headstock and carriage are mounted backwards on the way tubes. ??????
The HS looks where it should be in relation to the left to right, IMHO and a few M's. Single quill to the right, PTOs to the left.

Thanks, I know I'm a noob, but the headstock seemed to be pointed in the right direction to me. I'll start cleaning it tomorrow morning.

Crab, easy on the abrasives, a maroon Scotch Brite pad, with some kerosene does wonders on rust and wood crud, then wipe with mineral spirits to clean off, then air dry a beer or 2, then a coat or 2 of Johnsons paste wax. On the bare steel and aluminum after the cleaning a coat or 2 of Shellac will seal/coat the steel and aluminum to prevent further rusting/oxidation. then a light buffing of gray or white Scotch Brite pad, then wax.
We have your 6 here!!!

rbursek wrote:Crab, easy on the abrasives, a maroon Scotch Brite pad, with some kerosene does wonders on rust and wood crud, then wipe with mineral spirits to clean off, then air dry a beer or 2, then a coat or 2 of Johnsons paste wax. On the bare steel and aluminum after the cleaning a coat or 2 of Shellac will seal/coat the steel to prevent further rusting/oxidation. then a light buffing of gray or white Scotch Brite pad, then wax.
We have your 6 here!!!

Excellent. I was just going to use scotch brite and 4-600 grit wet n dry paper, for now. Would it be stupid to power wash everything EXCEPT the headstock? The casters are already rusted solid.

H2O under pressure and where it might go is not what I would do!! Metal more H2O is corrosion!! If anything air from a compressor or from a reversed hose on a shop vac. Oil based products and some elbow work. On my rusty tubes I used some penetrating oil on the pad instead of kerosene. Maroon pad is equal to 000 steel wool, about 600 wet and dry too.

Spray up the castors with penetrating oil, and after a beer roll them around and move the levers a few times. they will free up.

rbursek wrote:H2O under pressure and where it might go is not what I would do!! Metal more H2O is corrosion!! If anything air from a compressor or from a reversed hose on a shop vac. Oil based products and some elbow work. On my rusty tubes I used some penetrating oil on the pad instead of kerosene. Maroon pad is equal to 000 steel wool, about 600 wet and dry too.

Got it, just use air. I have a compressor and lots of homemade PB Blaster in oil cans (a mix of 50/50 ATF and acetone).

I voted no just to see the results so far. To some folks $40 is a good deal. To me, I don't want a fixer.

PB Blaster is mine of choice, works great on rust removal instead of kerosene, spray on, let it sit for a beer, then scrub a bit with a PB Blaster saturated maroon SB pad. Wipe off, then rewipe with mineral spirits, then shellac and or wax

rbursek wrote:PB Blaster is mine of choice, works great on rust removal instead of kerosene, spray on, let it sit for a beer, then scrub a bit with a PB Blaster saturated maroon SB pad. Wipe off, then rewipe with mineral spirits, then shellac and or wax

Sounds like a plan. Where's mah beer?:D