Watch the five (count 'em) five Sawdust Sessions that I did on the OPR, especially the first in which I compared a well-designed router table with the OPR. A video is worth 100,000 words.
With all good wishes,
SS Pin Router VS. Pro Fence Router Vs. the SS Router Table Kit.
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james.miller
- Gold Member
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- Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 2:16 pm
IMHO I am going to say you need both so you can use the OPR most of the time and the RT with an Incra fence and templates the rest of the time for fancy joints (some of you will say the Jointech system is the way to go).
The people lucky enough to have the older free standing OPR have almost the best of both worlds.
The people lucky enough to have the older free standing OPR have almost the best of both worlds.
Jim in Tucson
Hi Pinky! I have and have used the OPR for quite a few operations. I also have a homemade router table. Several thoughts about both:
I use the same router for both operations. Not at the same time of course, but it only takes less than a couple of minutes to change from table to OPR or the reverse
The OPR is a wonderful tool. For me there was a learning curve that was longer than expected. Like when learning to use any power tool, it's not automatic at first. That said, when the Overhead Router is set up and running it just can't be beat. I've made raised panels and stiles and rails with it. Also have found it is the best mortising tool I've ever used. Also used it for pin routing in making play blocks for pre-school. To make several items of identical shape this is the best way. I also used the OPR to make adjustment slots in its table and t make a sliding table with fence. Incidentally the OPR table is an excellent router table. When waxed, it is as slick as snot on a doorknob! I swear - even a fly can't walk on it!
O.K. now for the home made router table. The router base is permanently mounted in the bottom of the table, so to remove the motor, just need to throw one lever, hold down another and it will drop out. I use the table router set up for making tapered shutter louvers and for fast set ups for edge routing while the Mark V is wanted in a position other than drill press.
One router - two styles of operation = the best of both worlds!:D
I use the same router for both operations. Not at the same time of course, but it only takes less than a couple of minutes to change from table to OPR or the reverse
The OPR is a wonderful tool. For me there was a learning curve that was longer than expected. Like when learning to use any power tool, it's not automatic at first. That said, when the Overhead Router is set up and running it just can't be beat. I've made raised panels and stiles and rails with it. Also have found it is the best mortising tool I've ever used. Also used it for pin routing in making play blocks for pre-school. To make several items of identical shape this is the best way. I also used the OPR to make adjustment slots in its table and t make a sliding table with fence. Incidentally the OPR table is an excellent router table. When waxed, it is as slick as snot on a doorknob! I swear - even a fly can't walk on it!
O.K. now for the home made router table. The router base is permanently mounted in the bottom of the table, so to remove the motor, just need to throw one lever, hold down another and it will drop out. I use the table router set up for making tapered shutter louvers and for fast set ups for edge routing while the Mark V is wanted in a position other than drill press.
One router - two styles of operation = the best of both worlds!:D
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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pinkiewerewolf
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 526
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2008 10:13 pm
- Location: Ca. Eureka area.
Thanks guys, it is good to hear that the OPR can do most things that a router table has usually been called on to perform.
I'll have to check out Nick's sawdust sessions with the OPR. I have a mid term this week so after Thursday I'll tune in to those episodes.
My Porter-Cable 690LR would mount in the OPR, so at this point that might weigh in my decision as I could Postpone buying the Triton for an under table mount.
Besides all that like, like some of you have said, i can use the OPR to fabricate a router table. (I've always wanted to make the R/T that norm made on his show so that would take care of one project that I've wanted to do for awhile now.
Chuck, shutters are another project SWMBO has requested. I think I'm going to be busy.
I'll have to check out Nick's sawdust sessions with the OPR. I have a mid term this week so after Thursday I'll tune in to those episodes.
My Porter-Cable 690LR would mount in the OPR, so at this point that might weigh in my decision as I could Postpone buying the Triton for an under table mount.
Besides all that like, like some of you have said, i can use the OPR to fabricate a router table. (I've always wanted to make the R/T that norm made on his show so that would take care of one project that I've wanted to do for awhile now.
Chuck, shutters are another project SWMBO has requested. I think I'm going to be busy.
John, aka. Pinkie. 1-520, 1-510 & a Shorty, OPR. 520 upgrade, Band Saw, Jig Saw, scroll saw, Jointer, Jointech Saw Train.
Delta Benchtop planer, Makita LS1016L 10" sliding compound miter saw, Trojan manf. (US Made)Miter saw work center, MiniMax MM16 bandsaw.
Squire of the Shopsmith. ...hmmmm, maybe knave, pawn, or wretch would be more appropriate for me.
Delta Benchtop planer, Makita LS1016L 10" sliding compound miter saw, Trojan manf. (US Made)Miter saw work center, MiniMax MM16 bandsaw.Squire of the Shopsmith. ...hmmmm, maybe knave, pawn, or wretch would be more appropriate for me.
Pinkie, I don't think the PC 690 would be a good one for raised panels as it just doesn't have enough HP for that much material removal. From what I read (not done it myself) a raised panel router should have about 2.5 HP or more. But I'll let the more experienced weigh in on this.pinkiewerewolf wrote: My Porter-Cable 690LR would mount in the OPR, so at this point that might weigh in my decision as I could Postpone buying the Triton for an under table mount.
And study hard for your test.
Anniversary Model 505 to 520 Up grade, with Band saw, Jointer, Strip & Belt Sander, and a catalog of wishes.
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pinkiewerewolf
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 526
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2008 10:13 pm
- Location: Ca. Eureka area.
Good point Len. The 690 is 1&1/2 HP, I think.
Hmmmm, the thinking cap is back on again. LOL
Hmmmm, the thinking cap is back on again. LOL
John, aka. Pinkie. 1-520, 1-510 & a Shorty, OPR. 520 upgrade, Band Saw, Jig Saw, scroll saw, Jointer, Jointech Saw Train. Delta Benchtop planer, Makita LS1016L 10" sliding compound miter saw, Trojan manf. (US Made)Miter saw work center, MiniMax MM16 bandsaw.
Squire of the Shopsmith. ...hmmmm, maybe knave, pawn, or wretch would be more appropriate for me.
Delta Benchtop planer, Makita LS1016L 10" sliding compound miter saw, Trojan manf. (US Made)Miter saw work center, MiniMax MM16 bandsaw.Squire of the Shopsmith. ...hmmmm, maybe knave, pawn, or wretch would be more appropriate for me.
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curiousgeorge
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 880
- Joined: Tue Feb 27, 2007 1:00 am
- Location: Fort Worth, Texas
Pinkie,
Len is correct. You will need at least a 2 to 3 hp router with variable speed to handle the larger bits for raised panels. The larger bits have to be run at slower speeds. Attached is a suggested speed chart for router bits.
Len is correct. You will need at least a 2 to 3 hp router with variable speed to handle the larger bits for raised panels. The larger bits have to be run at slower speeds. Attached is a suggested speed chart for router bits.
- Attachments
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Router Bit Speed Chart.pdf- (29.86 KiB) Downloaded 1599 times
George
Ft. Worth, TX.
Go TCU Froggies
Ft. Worth, TX.
Go TCU Froggies
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Ed in Tampa
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 5834
- Joined: Fri Jul 21, 2006 12:45 am
- Location: North Tampa Bay area Florida
Pinkie
I have asked a similar question a time or two myself. I'm convinced a standalone Overhead Pin Router is the killer answer. Not only did you have the ablity to use the OPR but there was nothing to prevent you from using the table itself as a router table.
Unfortunately Shopsmith doesn't make the standalone any longer.
That leaves us with the choice between two router tables and OPR
I would love to have the OPR but for me I think I would also want the lift assist and I know I would need to buy a router (none of mine will fit the OPR). So I'm looking at a fairly sizable outlay of money.
If I look at the two router tables SS offer both have good points and bad.
Actually what I'm really considering is building my own table to mount to my Shopsmith. If I can find (or buy from ss) a leg assembly from an aux table and 520 main table front and back rails I will. My idea is to build a table that will serve two purposes as a second aux table plus as a router table. I really like Rocklers aluminum table inserts so I would them.
My way of thinking is get a blank plate and use it most of the time using the table as an aux table and then very quickly being able to lift it out and drop my router mounted on the aluminum plate in.
Woodcraft sells 24x48 pieces of phenolic faced multi ply that is 3/4" thick and laminated on both sides which would make perfect tables. The only thing required is cut the plate opening not a real big deal and mounting the fence rails. I thinking of mounting the fence rails to angle aluminum sold at HD and then screwing the aluminum angle to the bottom of the ply. I would mount the aux leg set as close to the center of the gravity of the table with the router mounted as I could, hoping I wouldn't need adjustable legs. However if I found I did have to have the adjustable legs when the router was in the table that would be okay too.
My way of thinking is with the aux table assembly and the angle iron the 3/4" thick multiply with Phenolic laminate would be strong enough not to warp or bend.
I think this would setup would give me the best of the both tables. I would be able to use my 520 fence with an addition of a split rail aux fence and dust collection. I would have more additional table surface for my SS plus I would have something that stored with my SS and didn't eat up more floor space. bit changes would be done like the do on Router workshop, pop the plate and lay the router over to make the bit change. Using the 520 with an aux fence would give me a precise way to mount the fence, and is very rigid.
Short of finding a standalone OPR on Craigslist or Ebay that is my plan at the moment.
Ed
I have asked a similar question a time or two myself. I'm convinced a standalone Overhead Pin Router is the killer answer. Not only did you have the ablity to use the OPR but there was nothing to prevent you from using the table itself as a router table.
Unfortunately Shopsmith doesn't make the standalone any longer.
That leaves us with the choice between two router tables and OPR
I would love to have the OPR but for me I think I would also want the lift assist and I know I would need to buy a router (none of mine will fit the OPR). So I'm looking at a fairly sizable outlay of money.
If I look at the two router tables SS offer both have good points and bad.
Actually what I'm really considering is building my own table to mount to my Shopsmith. If I can find (or buy from ss) a leg assembly from an aux table and 520 main table front and back rails I will. My idea is to build a table that will serve two purposes as a second aux table plus as a router table. I really like Rocklers aluminum table inserts so I would them.
My way of thinking is get a blank plate and use it most of the time using the table as an aux table and then very quickly being able to lift it out and drop my router mounted on the aluminum plate in.
Woodcraft sells 24x48 pieces of phenolic faced multi ply that is 3/4" thick and laminated on both sides which would make perfect tables. The only thing required is cut the plate opening not a real big deal and mounting the fence rails. I thinking of mounting the fence rails to angle aluminum sold at HD and then screwing the aluminum angle to the bottom of the ply. I would mount the aux leg set as close to the center of the gravity of the table with the router mounted as I could, hoping I wouldn't need adjustable legs. However if I found I did have to have the adjustable legs when the router was in the table that would be okay too.
My way of thinking is with the aux table assembly and the angle iron the 3/4" thick multiply with Phenolic laminate would be strong enough not to warp or bend.
I think this would setup would give me the best of the both tables. I would be able to use my 520 fence with an addition of a split rail aux fence and dust collection. I would have more additional table surface for my SS plus I would have something that stored with my SS and didn't eat up more floor space. bit changes would be done like the do on Router workshop, pop the plate and lay the router over to make the bit change. Using the 520 with an aux fence would give me a precise way to mount the fence, and is very rigid.
Short of finding a standalone OPR on Craigslist or Ebay that is my plan at the moment.
Ed
I sent a PM to John on the Standalone. I have posted the photo of it here before. Has a PC 690 in the arm and a Freud 3.25 hp in the table underneath. The Freud will certainly walk through raised panels. For one router to go back and forth, I would get the big PC mentioned. Some also like the big Milwaukee- for the OPR it has to be a round motor..mt
1983 Mark V- beltsander, jigsaw, Stripsander,jointer, bandsaw-double carriage and tables with molders and drums, Over Arm Pin Routers(Freestanding x 2)Second Mark V.